This is going to turn into a big discussion, but if those two are your only options...
Pennzoil Ultra and a Mopar oil filter

 

In before....

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I see what you did there! :alfdance:

To the OP, probably doesn't matter. SRT states that Mobil1 oil's blend changed and no longer superior hence why all SRT's have Penzoil. My guess, contract probably ran out and Penzoil offered a better deal.

Just go with whatever! I was on Mobil1 until Chrysler switched, now I'm doing Penzoil synthetic. :beerchug:

 

you're fine with either one.

Being in automotive, I can just about guarantee it was a financial issue that made Chry switch to Penzoil

 

I've always used penzoil synthetic or regular, never had issues with engines.

 

If you really want something significant better than either of them, use 7.5w23 QuantumBlue HP Competition Formula Custom Blended Engine Oil!

Been a vendor on this forum for almost 6 years. Over 9,000 people here use our products and go between 10k and 15k miles on one change due to the fact that we make materials that are much more durable than either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil.

Both Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum are light on anti-wear additives and have small molecule structures for little cushion and quickly pump like water! Spend 102.08 for 8 quarts and get a QuantumBlue Ultra HP Oil Filter Free! :beerchug:

Here is a thread that will help you see what other people have experienced!

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158448

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

Just curious Brian, why do you use such irregular viscosities? Why don't you just make a 10W-20 or 25? It's just strange to see an oil viscosity that's 8.5W-23.

 

Actually, that is a good question. However, you are mixing up the viscosities of the 5.7L MDS Hemi and the 3.6L VVT Polyhemi V6

Maybe this will help.

All oils that are multi-viscosity have additives in them that thin them out and thicken them up depending on temperature.

The wider the viscosity the more viscosity improvers we have to add.

For example:

5w20 5+20 = 25 div by 2 = 12.5 centipoise base oil It then has to thin out to a 5 centipoise (a 7.5 centipoise drop) and then raise from the 12.5 mean to the 20 centipoise (a 7.5 centipoise raise).

A 12.5 centipoise oil is really just too thin! Now a 5w30 is 5 + 30 = 35 div by 2 = 17.5 cP. Again, this is a swing of 12.5 cP from the mean of 17.5.
This is better but still not robust enough. So yes, it would be better on the 5w30.

A 5 weight oil in cP is good to -47 degrees below. Most don't need that low.

The best would be what we prefer to make for a 3.6L VVT DOHC V6 which is an 8.5w32.

So 8.5 + 32 = 40.5 div by 2 = 20.25 cP. Dropping 12.75 cP and raising the same is still better because you are starting out at a higher 20.25 instead of a 17.5 or a real thin 12.5!

Also with the additives we put in the oil, it extends the life to 10-12 k miles instead of 5k. So in the long run, we are better and cheaper. As I said, I just did my wife's 2011 Avenger with 12,748 miles on one change of 8.5w32.

On the 5.7L MDS VVT Eagle, you can get a 7.5w23 or 7.5+23 = 30.5 div 2 = 15.25 cP vs the 12.5. So you are really getting 18% more film strength compared to the 5w20 yet still having a drop of 7.75 cP vs 7.5 cP so pumpability will be the same from a viscometer.

We break it down into individual centipoise or cP instead of accepting a range of 5.60 to 9.29 and still calling it the same weight oil. That is like paying 5.60 dollars for a gallon of gasoline and then paying 9.29 dollars for a gallon of gasoline and calling it the same price......not really.

Bottom line is we can get more film strength in an engine without sacrificing the MDS function or the cam phaser action and still give the engine more cushion and heat carrying capacity than the 5w20. Also, we can build more vapor threshold temperature into it so it won't outgas as much as the 5w20.

Molecule size first, additives second, oxidation stability third, and moisture handling fourth. Take into consideration the modifications that we all want on our cars and you have a need for a custom blend to protect better.

Hope this helps the understanding.:bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

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I liked Pennzoil Ultra when i put it in, now switched to Quantum Blue.

 

That has to be the best explanation I've ever read about motor oils...

 

Mobil 1 : No
Mobil 1 Extended Use : Yes
Pennzoil Platinum: Yes

 

Inyadreems,

By the way, on the oil filters we provide, we do our own design that ensures that you get what you need for high performance engines.

Here is a radiograph of a K&N and a QuantumBlue Oil Filter

Leaf spring instead of coil spring and the first 5 minutes of start up goes into bypass. Right down the side of the filter.....potentially washing a lot of what you caught in the element......right into the engine!



QuantumBlue bypasses the element completely and keeps contaminants locked into the filter element.



From the side



Just an example of what some of the engineering differences are with our QuantumBlue Ultra HP Oil filters.:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

So how does it effect my warranty, my dealer tells me I'm recommended to change my oil at 3k funny thing they said the same for synthetic too. Plus the computer should show before its time.

Another question what would you recommend for a Plymouth prowler, a 3.5 v6 though not a high performance motor it does get real hot in that tight space and especially in Arizona climate. Then there is the transverse tranny what would you use there as Plymouth/ Chrysler were strict on using only theirs. I only do 3-4k a year and change the synthetic once a year.

Gary

 

So how does it effect my warranty, my dealer tells me I'm recommended to change my oil at 3k funny thing they said the same for synthetic too. Plus the computer should show before its time.

Gary, that is a question that I get all the time from customers and potential customers! ACES stands for American Clean Energy Systems of Ohio. The "system" is using ACES IV in the gasoline that among it's many benefits is producing upper cylinder lubricity to help seal the upper compression ring from blowing carbon and contaminants into the oil. This reduces blowby around 40% compared to nothing in the fuel at all.

When you combine it with a QuantumBlue Custom Blend, the Quantum B compound can withstand in excess of 6000 degrees F. This compound alone will really help seal the oil control ring significantly to about 45% reduction in blowby.

When both of these materials are run in conjunction, there is up to 85% less blow by going into the oil which will significantly reduce the need to replace the oil therefore extending the life of the oil as we have shown on multitudes of oil analysis.

If you drive 10k miles on the "system" and you have 85% less blow by then you really have about 1500 to 2000 miles of contaminants in the oil compared to 3000 with out either. This is why Jed's OCD has driven 125,671 miles on 10 oil changes using both ACES IV and QuantumBlue.

As I have said before, he was EXTREMELY skeptical in going even 10k initially so he decided to do an oil analysis between each and every change. His farthest drain interval was 14,899 on one change!



The third column from the right shows that 14,899 sample. 17 ppm iron in 15k miles. Zero chromium so no ring wear in 15k, zero lead so no bearing wear in 15k (by the way, look across the lead colum horizontally....no lead in any sample...10th change and sample is on the far left at 156,127 miles) 4 ppm aluminum in 15k miles, and zero nickel so no valve wear. Can't get better than zero!

Anyway, it just shows that the materials will not damage anything and he is in southern California. And as you remember, your engine has a warranty of parts, materials, and workmanship only. If you introduce something that is going to increase protection into any system...engine, transmission, differential, coolant and steering they will only last longer and make the warranty not needed to be used.

Secondarily, you have the Magnuson-Moss act to protect you as well which states " a manufacturer of a parts, materials, and workmanship warranty cannot void that warranty because you use an aftermarket part or product unless....burden of proof by the manufacturer......that it created the damage or failure.

We have NEVER had a single failure on any of our products in any system we make products for in over 40,000 + vehicles. The great thing about the internet is that (and especially with social media today) it keeps all manufacturers of anything on the straight and narrow. Social media doesn't pull any punches!

I get people all the time call me and say......." you must really make what others claim you do because I can't find any problems or failures due to your product anywhere on the internet and I have tried to find some......can you make some for me? "

So don't worry about the warranty, worry about putting in materials into your car that will deal much more significantly with the individual problems you face in Arizona......silicates(sand) excessive heat, dissipation of exhaust compounds out the exhaust into your oils etc. We have to make bulletproof compounds for every single individual owner regardless of where they live.......this is why it is custom blended and not trying to be everything to everyone everywhere all the time.....the definition of medocrity!


Another question what would you recommend for a Plymouth prowler, a 3.5 v6 though not a high performance motor it does get real hot in that tight space and especially in Arizona climate. Then there is the transverse tranny what would you use there as Plymouth/ Chrysler were strict on using only theirs. I only do 3-4k a year and change the synthetic once a year.

Gary

The 3.5L SOHC 4 valve Polyhemi 60 degree V6 is a really great little engine. I have one in my 2000 Chrysler 300M. We recommend a 12.5w35 HP Competition Formula Aluminum Block with Cast Sleeve Custom Blend. This engine is well designed with 6 bolt mains, rolled fillets, and a forged steel crank. It also has aluminum heads, aluminum block with cast in steel liners.

Burke Brown was the chief engineer on this engine and basically said it can take whatever you give it and it just wants to keep on going.

Since you only do 3-4k milles per year on it, our 12.5w35 would be good for 2 years as you won't get to 10k on it anyway.

We provide the QuantumBlue Ultra HP oil filters for your R/T and your Prowler so if you get ACES IV for both of them along with the QB, you will have the best of both.

I felt your questions merited a complete explanation not just a don't worry about it and buy it comment. LOL.

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com

 

I use Mobil 1. I figure that if it's good enough for NASCAR, it's good enough for my SRT.

 

Mobil has a race car formula that's used in the Nascar engines. Totally different from the Walmart shelf product.