If you don't "race the car" then you have no need for the qualities of the higher performance fluids.

Brake fluid changes won't make your brakes work better. It's not like a pad. Fluid is fluid, the difference lies in the boiling point of the DOT rating. The DOT 4 and 5.1 fluids have very high boiling points. Ideal for track days where 1000f + are not uncommon. Do you expect to see this?

Will it hurt to run it? In the short haul, no. In the long haul, maybe. To sustain that "race level" of performance the fluids have a shorter shelf or working life. That's why you see race teams bleeding daily. If you go overboard on this you not only won't see (or feel) any difference but you could well end up with fluid that's inferior to the low buck stuff in a matter of months.

Do you boil the fluid now? (soft pedal, air is purged every couple of weekends etc) If not then you don't need a higher boiling point fluid.

As for the bleeding, all those fancy tools are nice but if you only want to flush it out; open up a bleeder and let the fluid drain into a pan. Top up the reservoir every few minutes and when you see the fluid run clear (or color change) close the bleeder. Do the other three wheels the same way. Done. No fuss, no muss, no pumping, no bs.

 

Yes fluid makes a difference. Brake Fluid is a big sponge for moisture and should be flushed every two years. I am no sure which fluids are acceptable in our cars, but flushing it and bleeding will make a difference. I recently did a brake job on my dads 98 buick, the fluid was green! It had absorbed so much water of the last ten years that it was green due to algae.

 

On my other cars, I usually used Castrol GT LMA brake fluid, which may or may not be a synthetic fluid. I never really had trouble with it since I changed it about every other year anyway. I hear ATE TYP 200 has a pretty high boiling point, but it costs around twice as much per bottle as the Castrol.