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MDS Reset & Calibration [B said:
4)[/B] Make a WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from accelerator and do not depress the brake, let the vehicle coast with the throttle closed until the vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.
Won't that happen instantly?
 
Some of these won't work on the new keyless ignition--can't go from On to ACC. I don't have a compass button either. Does anyone have updated procedures for getting codes for a 2011 Charger R/T Max? I'm interested in being able to see BCM codes.
Also, I thought LX was 300 and LD was for Charger.
 
Some of these won't work on the new keyless ignition--can't go from On to ACC. I don't have a compass button either. Does anyone have updated procedures for getting codes for a 2011 Charger R/T Max? I'm interested in being able to see BCM codes.
Also, I thought LX was 300 and LD was for Charger.
LX platform is loosely defined by the masses as the magnum, 300, and charger.
 
Thats because of the adaptive learning. You need to clear (pull fuse #11)them out every once in a while to get that pep back in. But alas, you be back to sluggish eventually.
I thought fuse #11 is for clearing PCM codes?!?
 
One code I don't see posted is the safety override but just incase:

This code is momentary so has to be done each time you want to override all the safety features in your car.

Simple,
  • While doing 5mph or in Canada, 10kph
  • Remove your foot from the accelerator and keep the car coasting
  • Turn the key to the start position and hold it
  • You will see your radio black out and if music is playing, it will stop
  • Wait for a single chime
  • You will know its worked when you see the ESP light come on and ESP BAS light turn on
  • Let go of key
  • Then your done. (Not recommended for road use)
 
Hello, I have a 2010 dodge charger and I am trying to reset the TPMS after rotating the tires. If anyone could help me that would be greatly appre.
You shouldn't need to do that, it should do it by itself after a few miles. If you are still having issues after about 20 miles, you need to see the dealer.

Unless you change the TPMS sensors, the system should still recognize them wherever they are on the car.

What trim model do you have?
 
Hey Guys
Just got my 2006 Charger in March. It had 170,000 miles on it when I got it. And of course almost immediately after the 500 mile warranty the dealer offered i blew the engine. I've just gotten her back from the mechanic and now I have 3 warning lights on my dash on. 1 is the Electronic Traction Control, 1 is the Electronic Throttle Control, and the last is the Malfunction Indicator Light. I read this whole thread and followed the instructions for resetting the Traction Control and the Throttle Control. It worked great for a day but the next morning I had to do it again. Any suggestions? Or should I just take her back to the mechanic?
 
should I just take her back to the mechanic?
Yes.
The mechanic can recheck his/her work to ensure all the wiring harness connections are good/correct after the engine work. If all is good, they can see what DTCs are logged for the traction control and throttle control.
.
 
Howdy. Just got my 2010 AWD Charger RT. 62k miles. Very stock. Very clean . Getting ready to upgrade tires,brakes and suspension. But.... my MIL just came on and it seems my MDS is no longer working. The ECO indicator does not come on even going downhill with a tail wind. Any suggestions.....
 
Plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car's OBD2 port and see what DTCs are logged.
.
 
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Alright, I am having some issues as well...
I had did a tune up and putting new plugs in. The old plugs in there were NGK plugs.
Well, I didn't know that dodge doesn't like Bosch +4 plugs.
So, going down the road, everything appears normal, no lights, etc. I get this chime and Observed the dash and I seen the throttle body sensor light (on and flashing) and the traction control light come on. Soon, I lose all functions over the throttle. I wouldn't get no response at all. So, had it towed back to my house, did some research and found out, that dodge doesn't like +4 plugs. And from what I was reading, assumed the throttle was bad, so I bought another one to replace it. Also bought some new plugs (Champion gap at .050) installed them and new throttle body. I took the battery post off, as well. So, I finish up, double and triple check my work before putting the battery post back on.

I start her up, like last time, no issues, ran fine. no lights, idle is a bit high around 1500 rpm, but it was cold as well.
So, after warm up, idle is about 1200rpm...still a bit high for a warm engine, but also got a new throttle body on there.
I put her in drive and idle is around 800 rpm while foot is on brake. So, on to the test drive. I take her down the road a ways, I dug into it a bit (wasn't hard), I went about half of a mile, turned around and stopped. Again all is running good, no missing, no lights, no issues. I'm thinking, "ok, great, fixed, I am happy." So, I start my way back up to the house, pull into the driveway, back in and just as I'm about to park, "bing", the throttle light (on and flashing) and traction control light came on and she started bucking on me and wouldn't respond. I was like, "WTF!!!!" So any help, is greatly appreciated.
What is the OEM for plugs on Dodge Chargers; I have looked and looked, with no real results.
 
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