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Reset and Calibration Procedures

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457K views 72 replies 52 participants last post by  Winter_in_Vegas  
#1 · (Edited)
Please make this post STICKY for those who might need it.

I have compiled a list of the various procedures to reset and/or calibrate different functions of the Dodge Charger. Anyone who has other procedures to add, please feel free to post them and I will update this post.



2006 Dodge Charger
Reset & Calibration Procedures​



Throttle Calibration

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.



MDS Reset & Calibration

1) You need a fairly long, open, safe, straight road for a WOT run to about 35 mph.
2) Get engine up to operating temp, engine running and car stopped place gear selector in "[D]". Bump it to the Left until in "[1]".
3) Turn off all electrical accessories (except lights if needed).
4) Make a WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from accelerator and do not depress the brake, let the vehicle coast with the throttle closed until the vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.
5) Stop vehicle and place in "Park", verify all instrument cluster warning indicators are off.
6) Cycle ignition switch "Off" and back "On", but do not immediately start engine.
7) Hook up StarScan and clear DTC's
8) MDS calibration is now complete.



Auto-Up Front Window

If the vehicle is equipped with the Auto-Up feature, the door module needs to be calibrated upon reconnecting the battery. This module requires calibration if the battery or door module has been disconnected for any length of time. To calibrate, perform the following steps:

1) Connect the battery cables.
2) Using the window switch, raise the window to the full UP position. Hold the switch in position for 1 second, then drive the window all the way down to the bottom.



Electronic Stability Program (ESP)

If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time. To calibrate, perform the following:

1) Start the engine.
2) Center the steering wheel.
3) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the internal stop in the steering gear is met, then turn the wheel all the way to the right until the opposite internal stop in the steering gear is met.
4) Center the steering wheel.
5) Stop the engine.



FOLLOWING ADDED 02-13-06:



Sensor Diagnostics Display (Requires EVIC!)
(Use this URL to see more detailed info on the various display screens.)
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=11326

If your LX has the Electronics Convenience Group option, you can enter a diagnostic mode and cycle through various displays, such as oil pressure, pedal position, and software version, to name a few.

To enter diagnostic mode (refer to your steering wheel controls), depress and hold the compass button (the one with the N and small arrow above it) and musical note button for about 6 seconds with the key in the ON position (doesn't matter whether or not the engine is running). Hold the buttons until you see the display change.

Cycle through the displays using the up/down arrow buttons. Exit diagnostic mode by depressing the compass button.



Display OBD-II Trouble Codes On Cluster (Works with or without EVIC)
(Again, use link below for more detailed information.)
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=12361

1)Get in the car, close the door. Perform steps 2-6 fairly quickly (less than 3 seconds total time). (The key should not return to the OFF position throught the sequence!)

2) Turn key to 'ON' position
3) then back to 'ACC'
4) then to 'ON'
5) then back to 'ACC'
6) then to 'ON'

If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the odometer. For instance an "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH" error will set a code of P0113.

Once the codes have been displayed, you'll see "-----".
If there are no trouble codes, the dashes will be the first item displayed.
After a few seconds, the display changes to "-dOnE-".




Cluster Range Diagnostic. (Works on all LX models)

1) Be sure key is set to the 'OFF' position.
2) Press and hold the 'Trip Meter Reset' button.
3) Turn the key to 'ON' position.

The gauges will step through the whole range. If your gauge is acting funny, this is an easy way to see if it's the sender or the gauge.



Display Engine Operating Hours

1) Turn the key to the 'ON' position
2) Press and hold the 'Trip Meter Reset' button for approximately 6-8 seconds.

The engine operating hours will display. Divide this by your odometer miles reading to discover your average speed over the life of the car.
 
#4 ·
Would you consider adding this to the FAQ?
 
#6 ·
Epoch: I don't see why not :) Any place where it can best be used (I would assume here as well as the FAQ) would be great.

I do want to see if I can find a way to acquire an electronic version of the Service Manual from DC. Would be an invaluable asset to all of us.


Footer: To the best of my understanding, some of this info was quoted directly from the dealer Service Manual, so yes the StarScan is a scanner used within the dealer repair shops. I'm assuming though that it's only being used to clear any DTC's from the car, specifically in this procedure. I doubt there's ANY chance a consumer could acquire one of those scanners. Now if that scanner IS being used ONLY to clear codes for the MDS procedure, then you may be able to get away with bypassing the dealership and using another consumer-based scanner to clear the codes, assuming the one you have is compatable with the CAN system.

(If someone can point out any faults in that, please do! Want to be sure accurate info is being provided here.)
 
#8 ·
I love this thread. It's one stop shopping.
 
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#9 ·
Holding compass button doesnt work

I am trying to enter the system display in the EVIC, by holding the compass button down for 6 sec etc, instead I hear no chime at all, and I get "Compass variance" which 1 thru 15 can be selected, if I use the arrows to cycle I get another feature saying "Calibrate Compass" thats it, why cant I get to the software version etc?????
 
#13 ·
So if i go the dodge dealership and tell them that i push the accelerator and its response is alittle slow, what would i be asking the to do. Would i be asking them to reset the timing or fix the timing? or is it called somehting else. basically when i push the gas it doesn't respond that quick like it use to when i first got it.
 
#17 ·
okay so pull fuse 11 in the box in the trunk right. When i do the steps am i to have my battery connected and everything.
 
#20 ·
I have an SXT 07 so i think the fuse box is in the trunk. so i pull it out and put it back in. While the car is on or off?

Also for the reset of throttle is the car off or on when im pushing on the gas and letting slowly of the gas?
 
#21 ·
There is a fuse box under the hood and in the trunk.
Fuse 11 is under the hood but not sure if there is a fuse 11 in the trunk. I have never pulled any. I would guess the fuse under the hood is the correct one.

Before you pull fuses I would try the throttle calibration. Read the very first page of this thread. It explains in detail how to do it among several other reset/calibrate procedures for other parts of the car.

DO NOT PULL ANY FUSES UNLESS THE CAR IS OFF!

-GB
 
#22 ·
Is the car off or on during the throttle calibration.
 
#23 ·
did you not read the instructions on page 1?
Throttle Calibration

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

ok your right take your car to the dealer it seems to technical for you!!
 
#25 ·
what about the fuse pull for number 11 thing. Have u tried that
 
#26 ·
The list of Reset procedures and info is great, HOWEVER, i researched Throttle Calibration , after battery disconnect and the info on gas pedal speed was the exact opposite- it stated to mash the pedal to the floor , wait a few seconds and let off super quick.

the fast method did indeed work for me.

(You can download a copy of the owners manual at dodge's site- for fuse info.
If you cannot download Charger- i know you can download 2006 Magnum)

Anyone use the slow method , did it work??

Thanks
 
#32 ·
Maybe you want to add this one:

SRT8 PCM Reset Technique..but should work on all LX vehicles.

Step 1:
Open the hood of the vehicle and open the covered fuse box on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Step 2:
Remove the following fuses and set them aside:
11; 14; and 16
These are labeled on the underside of the fuse box cover in a mirrored-layout fashion.
Fuse 16 is a Dark-Blue 15amp fuse found on the far right of the box
Fuse 14 is a Beige color 25amp fuse
Fuse 11 is a Neon Yellow 20amp fuse

Make sure to note the colors...the box lid with the fuse #s reads in reverse and can be confusing.

Step 3:
Insert your key into the ignition and turn the key to ON. Wait for the initial sequence of lights and chimes to complete. Do not turn the key off until you have reached Step 5.

Step 4:
Without turning the key to 'OFF', turn the key to the 'START' position and hold it there until you hear a single chime. The engine will not attempt to start, this is completely normal. After the chime, release the key from the 'START' position back to 'ON' without cycling the key.

Repeat this step one more time, turning the key to 'START' and holding it until you hear the chime. Once the second chime has sounded, cycle the key back to the 'OFF' position and remove your key.

Step 5:
Return to the fuse box under the hood and reinstall the fuses, paying close attention to replacing the correct fuses to their original location. Close up the box, and start your car.

You have now completely reset the PCM's adaptive memory, as well as cleared any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's).

************
Side Note:
Some people have stated they have a Beige 25 AMP fuse for #11. Don't understand this..but...

Using this procedure, my car seemed to perform a lot better than just the Fuse #11 pull.
1-2 shift was crisper and it seemed way stronger.
 
#33 ·
Is that only for 06 models?