Well, not sure about the code re-appearing but when the MIL light is on, the MDS will not work.

 

I have not heard that it takes several cycles before the codes reset. The Diablo tuner always took care of the reset for me. Is the Preditor up to date on the software and have you tried to get the codes reset with another scanner?

 

Not sure on the predator but I had to take my 2011 RT to Oreilly Auto parts and use there scan tool to remove the stored code form memory after replacing the cam and crank sensors. I think even if you clear the code it's still stored in the control modules memory. Anyway, after clearing the code from the memory it never returned.

 

Yes, my Predator tool is up to date, and it clears other codes just fine. For some reason this code will not clear with it though.

When I was originally having problems with the code about a week ago, it also threw a random misfire, and a swapped sensor code. Those two codes cleared, but the P0032 code did not.

 

Humm. I guess you could try stopping at an auto parts store and see if they can clear it. Mine came right back on when cleared with the battery disconnect until I had Oreilly remove the code from memory and not just clear it. Worked for me. Might be Worth a shot.

 

The reason I asked about the Predator is because when I used the Advanced Auto Parts scanner, it came up with a different code than the Diablo Trinity 1000 was showing. Also with the Diablo the code would not reset but it did with the Advance Auto scanner. If you have a part store near, it would not hurt to double check.

 

I will try sometime this week, and see if they can clear it from the PCM memory. I will also post back on what happens.

Thank you

 

I Tried having Autozone clear the code, and it showed two more codes, P0300, and P1128, that weren't showing at the time across the odometer with the key dance, or using the Predator to read them. Just like using the Predator to clear the code, their device cleared the code until I started the car, and the light came right back on along with the P0032 code. When I got home it was still showing P0032, and also P0300, even though it never backfired or hesitated once.

Later that day, I went to a visit a friend that works with a Snap On device to diagnose cars. Everything I told him made him scratch his head, and he had no idea what to tell me. He thinks I might have another bum PCM.

When I left, it started acting up. Spitting and sputtering, and started backfiring as soon as I put it in drive. I limped it home, and it's been parked since. It's now showing the three codes that the Autozone device showed before they erased them.

This is the second repaired PCM that I got from All Computer Resources, and the first one I got was definitely bad when I received it. The first repaired PCM was throwing codes P2323, and P0308, but it narrowed the misfire down to cylinder 8. I swapped the cylinder 8 and cylinder 4 pack to make sure it wasn't a pack, checked the wires, cleared the codes, and started it back up. The code still showed misfire with cylinder 8, so I also checked the plugs. They were fine. Just for the heck of it I threw the original PCM back on the car, and none of the codes were coming up on the old PCM, and the engine ran just fine. I kinda wish I had kept the original PCM until I started having these problems, but they wanted the original PCM within 14 days to start my Lifetime Warranty, and so I didn't get charged for their core charge.

I've changed all 4 sensors with OEM Mopar O2 sensors, used recommended Champion Copper Core spark plugs, and checked all the wiring when I was changing everything out. Nothing has been chewed through, or none of the wires were damaged in any other way.

No idea what to do as of now.

 

My friend finally got a chance to check my car with his snap on computer, and it's either another bad O2 sensor, a bad harness, or I got another bad PCM. He's good at reading the stuff that he brings up on his computer, but not that great at knowing what exactly to check with a multi-meter. His computer is showing absolutely no voltage being read by the heater circuit while it's running. He printed out a few sheets of information from Alldata for the P0032 code, and what to check, but neither he, nor I are totally sure what it's all saying to do.

I have a few questions for someone who knows how to check these things.

1. Can the O2 sensor be checked for a bad heater circuit without it being installed on the car, and if so, which connectors do I check?

2. If it has to be tested while it's connected to the harness on the car, where do I check the connectors while it's plugged in, and again which connectors?

3. If it's not the O2 sensor, where do I check the harness with a multi-meter, and is this done while the car is running also?

4. If I am not getting any reading at the sensor, or from the wiring harness at the connectors by the cats, is there any way to check to see if the harness is bad at the PCM side of the harness connecters? If so how do I check this?

5. If the sensor, and harness are good, it would definitely be a faulty PCM, correct?

I could swap the driver side, and passenger side upstream sensors, but I'd rather not have to go through that pain in the ass situation again, unless I really need to. I still have the original O2 sensor, and I'm not even sure the original sensor was bad to begin with. I probably should have asked all of this stuff before I went, and replaced them all. At the same time they have 180,000 miles on them, so I'm sure it didn't hurt to change them out though.

I just want to know all of what, and how to check it properly before throwing another PCM at the problem. Again, I should have asked this before.

 

I finally got some more money to get the ball rolling again in trying to fix the problem that I was having before. I took everything aftermarket/custom off of the car including retro-fitted OEM hid lights, relay/wire harness, hid fog lights, sequential taillight modules, and even my plug and play trailer wiring. The only thing left are the two resistors for the led lights for my taillights. I got another refurbished PCM from a company out of North Carolina, thinking maybe I'd have better luck through them. Followed their install directions exactly, let everything rest for a bit after I put the negative cable back on the battery, and now this PCM is making my car run worse than the PCM that I replaced, and throwing a different code altogether. P2072 to be exact.

It seems every time I replace a PCM, it's getting worse. Is there something I'm missing? When my friend had his computer on the car, it would have shown if I had a short in my system somewhere, correct? That's about the only thing that I could think that's causing each PCM to be corrupted as soon as I hook up the negative cable. I don't see how I got three bum PCM's, especially from 2 separate sources.

I'm about ready to have it towed to a Dodge dealership, but this is where everything started, and they couldn't figure out the problem with the original PCM that got screwed up when it was in their hands. I thought maybe they were just dicking me over, just saying they couldn't figure it out, but everything I've done so far hasn't helped any either.

I'm really hoping someone here has run into a problem like this, and can help me out. Even an idea on how much I'm going to be paying to have this trouble chased down by another dealer, so I know what I'm getting myself into in that route.

 

Well... My car is finally fixed.

I had it hauled to another local dealership, and they had the problem diagnosed within 15 minutes. It was the PCM, as I expected before.

All Computer Resources sent me a PCM that wasn't even for my car. It was for a Dodge Caravan. Totally different part number, but their sticker they slapped on it had the correct part numbers for my car. Apparently they ran out of the correct PCM, just grabbed a random one, and slapped a sticker on it saying it was the correct part. The dealership was amazed my car even ran off from it as long as it did.

Now that I have the problem fixed, and the dealership that I'm working with now was able to pinpoint the problem so fast, it's time to take up matters with the original dealership to see what can be done. I'm sure they still will not admit to screwing up the original PCM, but in all reality it should have been an open/shut case to begin with.

If anything, I know where not to take my car from now on.