Step one....slap your friend. :slap:
Step two...PM forum vendor Junkman. He can save pretty much any paint disaster.

 

Addendum: Repeat step one until your hand is sore. Then repeat step one some more.

Oh man... with friends like that, you definitely need no enemies! First of all, the product that is used to remove that type of gunk is called Goo-Gone. Use it with a quality microfiber towel (not that made in China crap), and your paint will be like a mirror when you're done.

Secondly, take your car by a body shop or a detailer. The damage in your paint can be fixed in literally 5 minutes or less. They shouldn't even charge you (I wouldn't but to me, life is about friendship, not money). The guy should walk up to your car, run the buffer for about a minute and be done. If you pay more than $10 bucks, you're being robbed. It is that simple to fix. Don't let someone blow smoke up your wazoo and ask you to leave the car there unless they are fixing it for free. If you had a Porter-Cable, you could do it yourself with no experience whatsoever. It literally is that simple to fix. Just don't make it worse by trying something else your crazy friend might recommend. You shoul have looked at his car first before deciding to use his advice.

Now, repeat step one.

 

Your friend definitely needs some slappage.:slap: :slap: :slap: :slap: :slap:

:biggrinjester:

 

The Goo-Gone I have is liquid. I have never seen a spray on version. I usually put it on a MF towel and work it into a spot. I'll let it sit for about 15 minutes and come back and work it to see if has sat long enough. If not, I let it sit another 15 minutes. There are other products that are stronger but Goo-Gone is safe for the paint. That's why I use it. You can leave it on the paint forever and it won't cause any damage.

 

Thank Junkman. I'm at work right now but tonight when I get home I'll post a pic of the stuff I bought. It's called Goo Gone, looks similar in color, just came in a spray bottle. Shows a car on the label somewhere (forget if it is front or back right now) but was located in the household cleaning products and lists both hard surfaces and stuff like carpets etc as possible places to use it.

 

Wow would a powerball for paint fix the whirls in his paint.????


This eases my Nerves about the Demolding.

 

Those devices are meant to be used on a drill. I NEVER recommend using a drill on your paint. There is just too many opportunity for something catastrophic to happen.

 

I say ***** slap your friend a few more times too

 

Slap him once for me, too. :slap:

The good news is that it doesn't sound like much real damage was done.

 

For removing badges and moldings I use an eraser pad.

http://www.handsontools.com/Astro-400E-Smart-Eraser-Pad_p_4041.html

I learned to use one on my 2004 Ram.
The Ram guys over at DodgeTalk swear by them.

I used one to debadge my Charger.

 

That goes on an air tool. That would not be conducive to those who have no air tools or a compressor to run them. You would also need to polish the paint after you finished using something like that if you want to maintain perfect paint. All said and done, that tool is more work than necessary.

 

I used an electric drill.
My paint looks great.
It cost me $10.
It was more than worth it.

 

Your paint looks great or perfect? Now that I have dealt with the paint on a Charger, I know how it can look.

 

Junkman, I used fishing line to saw thru the adhesive holding the badges onto my car.
Then I used the eraser wheel to remove the remaining adhesive.
The eraser wheel is pretty forgiving and didn't harm my paint at all.
After I cleared the adhesive I washed the car and spent some extra time on the areas where the badges used to be.
Once the car was dry I hit car up with some NuFinish car polish.

I didn't have any issues with my Ram or my Charger.

This method is the most promoted method of de-badging on DT.
There are huge threads over there about how to properly use the eraser wheel and then clean your vehicle.
Cheap, quick and easy. :beerchug:

 

punch your friend...in the eye

 

LOL agreeddddd......

 

for my moldings on the side i used wd-40 which i saw on youtube...soaked it for a sec and then I took an old blockbuster card and pull the edge and then she came off easy as ever...wash and waxed the car and now she looks great!

 

For years I have used Ronson lighter fluid to remove adhesive residue from auto paint. Never had any issues with it. Basically a really light kerosene.

Junkman will probably teach me otherwise

"No! Bad Tig!" :twak:

 

I can accept that it works, but it requires a tool. Goo Gone only calls for elbow grease and time, something we all have laying around the garage. It's cheaper too. Also, that thing is going to scuff the paint to some degree, no matter how minor it is. That damage will have to be addressed.

One way that I can tell is by shooting the flash off in a guys paint. Here's a test I use that you can try on your own paint, especially the area where you debadged the car. Post the pictures you come up with. Make sure you use your camera's macro setting so that it will focus as you move in closer than 12".

I'm dying to see your results.



I've never tried that but I can see where smoking at the same time might give you a "Richard Pryor" experience! :lol:

 

junk man you are the best! i have watched so many of your videos and after i bought the buffer you recommended my car has looked better than new!