fog lights??

hey thanks for the response.. Anymore pics you could post like where you installed the passenger side ballest would help??....did you do your foglights?? If so do you have a install tutorial on those....Cause those will be tricky. Do you need a wiring harness for the foglights, or will the standard harness that is included work for those?? How would you adjust your foglights??

 

hey thanks for the response.. Anymore pics you could post like where you installed the passenger side ballest would help??....did you do your foglights?? If so do you have a install tutorial on those....Cause those will be tricky. Do you need a wiring harness for the foglights, or will the standard harness that is included work for those?? How would you adjust your foglights??

I mounted the passenger ballast in the same spot as Step 6, behind the passenger headlight, but if you want I pic I will post it up later today.

I haven't done foglights yet, I just purchased my SXT 2 months ago and it didn't come with them. I'm planning on installing them in the near future with HID's and will do a writeup for those as well.

From what I've heard, I don't think you need a relay harness for the fogs.

To adjust the fogs, look into the foglight from the outside (in front of the bumper) At the very top of the foglight you will see a torx screw. This is the aim for the fogs.

 

wiring harness ???

I received my harness today and noticed that the plug that snaps into the OEM plug (step 16) was not connected to the wire totally. I just pushed it on and it snapped in place. If this is the case couldn't you basically put that plug on the way it needs to be connected so that it will snap into the factory harness correctly??? if that makes any sense to you. If you remember the tutorial about the front blinker where you had to swap the wires in the plug to make the mod work so both the front and side blinker in the front flash?? Basically same concept only reversing the plug to connect correctly instead of backwards. Also if I am not tripping.... you show that same plug (step 16) as red and black on the harness plugging into the OEM which is white and blue. On the harness I got the wire that plugs into the OEM is white and blue as well. So would I plug it directly the same white with white and blue with blue?????

 

I received my harness today and noticed that the plug that snaps into the OEM plug (step 16) was not connected to the wire totally. I just pushed it on and it snapped in place. If this is the case couldn't you basically put that plug on the way it needs to be connected so that it will snap into the factory harness correctly??? if that makes any sense to you. If you remember the tutorial about the front blinker where you had to swap the wires in the plug to make the mod work so both the front and side blinker in the front flash?? Basically same concept only reversing the plug to connect correctly instead of backwards. Also if I am not tripping.... you show that same plug (step 16) as red and black on the harness plugging into the OEM which is white and blue. On the harness I got the wire that plugs into the OEM is white and blue as well. So would I plug it directly the same white with white and blue with blue?????

I couldn't make mine snap in on step 16 because the maker of the harness was backwards. So I could not switch it to make it snap. Yes, connect blue to blue, white to white. Remember that blue/black/brown are always ground.

Thanks for the write up

Thanks JacksonBarden!

 

Thanks for the write up

 

Step 16

what I mean was that when I received my harness the plug fell off of the kit exposing the wires. I just snapped them in. So I don't know what happened. But as long as I am able to do it, I might reverse the plug so that it clips in.

 

what I mean was that when I received my harness the plug fell off of the kit exposing the wires. I just snapped them in. So I don't know what happened. But as long as I am able to do it, I might reverse the plug so that it clips in.

I see. So it actually helped you . That's great, that's a good idea, switching the wires on the connector.

 

ballasts???

hey providing that there is room, do you think it would be ok to put both low beam and fog light ballasts side by side where you have them installed? If I have the room I was thinking about it, just not sure if putting the ballasts side by side would be ok??

 

hey providing that there is room, do you think it would be ok to put both low beam and fog light ballasts side by side where you have them installed? If I have the room I was thinking about it, just not sure if putting the ballasts side by side would be ok??

Shouldn't be a problem as long as the wires reach down there. Measure first.

 

Nice write up, thanks for taking the time to do this for us.

 

Thanks LoneStar!

Awesome write up definitely following these steps. Do I have to buy 1 or 2 relay harness it looks to be only one but just making sure. Did you buy this from hidgate and what color k did you get looks great.

Thanks. You only need one harness. I bought them from a different seller since I bought these a long time ago for my old car, and them just switched them to my charger with new bulbs. They are 6000K.

 

Awesome write up definitely following these steps. Do I have to buy 1 or 2 relay harness it looks to be only one but just making sure. Did you buy this from hidgate and what color k did you get looks great.

 

only I (the HID god) can make posts about HID's!!!

lol jk, good write-up! Only thing I might add is to make sure the first initial time you turn the bulbs on you leave them on for 10 minutes (at least let them charge completely) as this will lengthen the life of your kit.

 

ray: Please forgive me, for I am just a humble servant of thee.

Hey Ron, go back and check Step 17.

 

Got the FOGS In!!!!

Ok, So I know the ones that read this will want pictures, but I can't get them right now. Anyways...DYNO I got my HID kit in for the fog lights and THEY look AWESOME.....My friend helped cause I was bragging to him about the HIDS and what not and he was like DAMN those things are bright. I still need to adjust them but that can wait cause I don't want to run them until I get my headlights in anyways. I did however run them for like 15 min with no problems.... The only issue I had was getting the car off the ground....had to jack up the car to get it on ramps.... But it worked out....

 

That's great White Thunder. I'm glad you got them working. Now with your post you have an obligation to post your pictures as soon as possible. PICS!! what color temperature did you put in each?

 

Thanks for the write-up. Had some issues with mine, and did a google search. Found your post and ran to radio shack. Everything works great now. Will post pics this week when my low beam and fogs come in

 

Thanks. Welcome to the forums.

 

I know there's already other threads like this, I just tried to make it easier to understand for others who feel nervous about doing the installation.

This is a step by step. I am not a professional installer, so I'm putting this up with many pictures in hopes of helping someone with their installation.

You will need the following, in order of use:
1. Camera
2. HID Kit (2 ballasts and 2 HID bulbs)
3. Wire cutters
4. Pliers
5. Zip ties
6. Relay Harness (see Step 7 for purchasing info)
7. 470µF 35V capacitor (see Steo 8 for purchasing info)
8. Electrical tape
9. TORX #20 driver

Level of difficulty: Beginner
The installation will take an average of about 1 hour to 1.5 hours without being rushed.

STEP 1:
Find a wall at night time and take a picture of your stock lighting against a wall. Remember the distance and place, so you can come back when you're done to adjust your HID's.

STEP 2:
You will receive two ballasts and two bulbs. Here's a picture of one of the bulbs.

Cut the grommet off, but be very careful not to cut the wires.

You will be left with just the bulb and the two wires. You will not be using the grommet or the other wires that were removed.

At this point in time, you may want to jump to Step 7-9 and complete those first before you continue to STEP 3.

STEP 3:
On an SXT, disconnect the tube with the arrow by just pulling it off and remove the screw the other arrow is pointing to.

Step 4:
Pull up the filter box carefully, but with a bit of force and set it aside.

Step 5:
You may not have to do this step if the bulbs in your kit fit the housing correctly. Remove the original bulbs by turning them counter-clockwise with your hand and pulling them out. Test fit your bulbs and they might not fit. I trimmed the "small tab" on my bulbs like shown in the picture so they would fit.

Step 6:
Find a place where you want to mount your ballasts. I placed mine behind the headlight housing as shown in the picture. I put 3M double sided tape on the bottom and held it with zip ties. Make sure it's not loose.

Step 7:
You will need a relay harness to keep the lights from flashing like disco strobe lights. Your HID kit might have already come with one or not need it. If you would like this same relay harness I purchased, you can get it from Ebay by searching for "HID Fuse Relay Wiring Harness High Quality Kit". Price is $23 shipped. Seller name is "hid4today". Here's a picture of the relay harness and their wiring diagram. Note that you will not be using connectors "F" and "G" since you already removed these from the bulbs previously.

Step 8:
You will need to add a capacitor to the relay harness, to prevent the lights from flashing like disco strobe lights. Its a 470µF 35V capacitor. You can find it at any RadioShack store for $1.29 each, their catalog # is 272-1030. I recommend you getting two just in case you plug it in backwards and it pops. Theirs is black, but I used a blue one. Note that one side of the capacitor has a stripe, this side is the negative (-) side. The side without the stripe is the positive (+) side. Here's a link to the item: Capacitor

Step 9:
Remove the relay from the harness by simply pulling it off, don't worry about orientation, it only goes in one way. Install the capacitor as shown in the picture. Notice what side the stripe is on.

Re-install the relay like shown in the picture. I recommend wrapping the relay and capacitor with black electrical tape to keep it in place and prevent moisture and water from reaching it.

Step 10:
Find a place where you would like to place the relay. I slid mine under the fuse box by where the jump starting cables are like shown in the picture. Zip tie the harness down, but do not include the black ground wire from the harness.

Step 11:
Pass the ground (black) wire through this slot and pull it out from the other side.

Step 12:
Attach the ground wire to the chassis ground wire as shown.

Step 13:
Open the small red (+) box next to the fuse box. Slide the power (red) wire UNDER the box and onto the post. Bolt it back up and close the box.

Step 14:
Slide the red cable and fuse under the fuse box. You may want to wrap the fuse with electrical tape.

Step 15:
Zip tie the long black plastic cable across to the other side and connect the relay harness to both ballasts, then connect both ballasts to both bulbs.

Step 16:
Finally, connect the relay harness to the factory car light bulb plug. You will only connect it to the passenger's side. You can wrap the driver's side OEM plug with electrical tape if you wish. BEWARE not to connect it wrong. Notice that RED goes to WHITE, and Black to Black. My connector didn't "click" together, so I had to wrap it with electrical tape.

Step 17:
Test your lights. Make sure they don't flash when you turn on the car.

EDIT: The HID god has spoken, and has requested this information be added. (ChargeRonDavinS)

Step 18:
Go back to the place where you took the picture of your original lights so you can adjust your new HID's. You will need a TORX #20 driver. Adjust the lights like shown in the picture. I recommend trying to aim them as low as possible.

Step 19:
Walk towards the fridge. Open door using primary hand. Take out six pack of beer and enjoy. Just don't go driving after that.

Is this for single beam or dual beam HIDs? Would there be a difference? Because I have dual beam H13 HIDs and I hooked up my headlights but my high beams wont work...

 

This tutorial is only for Dodge Chargers.

 

man what did you use to trim your bulbs down??? mine wont fit.

 

sweet write up!! thanks!

 

I got my wire harness today and hooked it up without the capacitor, been to lazy to go to radio shack yet. Things work fine when the engine is off but as soon as I start the engine the relay buzzes loudly and both of the lights go out. Does the cap fix that or is the cap just there to keep them from flickering?


EDIT- I dropped in a radial 35v 100uF cap just for testing and fixed the problem completely. Apparenlty the cap is NEEDED with the his I have in the low position.

 

I had the same problem. Worked fine with the engine off. I put the capacitor on and the lights haven't given me any problems since. Costs like a $1.25 at RadioShack.

 

i installed my hid kit just like you say. It worked fine, but tonight i came home to find my lights on but the headlight switch was off. i noticed my lights flickering and then would come on by themselves. I have the harness and the relays hooked up with a capacitor but why is this happening? How can this be fixed?

 

Double check the value of the capacitor. That's the only thing I can see causing this problem. You might have a bad capacitor.
Also, what year and model do you have?

 

i have an 07 Charger, SXT. Should i get a stronger capacitor? Will i have the same issue with the fog lights?

 

Just make sure it's the right value. If it is, the relay may be at fault.

 

Excellent write up, Thanks a lot. I needed to use your harness guide in a pinch when installing my Oracle 4300K yesterday. The kit came with the "no flicker" harness and of course flickered like a bastard. So I ran to Radio Shack and picked up the capacitor for $1.29 and it works perfect now. If it wasn't for this write up, I would not have the lights installed yet.
Thanks again.
Mark
:rocker:

 

Thanks RPM Mark.

 

Also, if anyone would like to make their own "anti-flicker harness", I found these links:

Homemade HID Anti Flicker Capacitor

Hope this can help some people who has problem of their HID fogs flicking

 

I just used the directions in the OP and it worked like a charm ... just wish that the capacitor was built into the harness ... it'd make sense for the $240+ my kit cost ... (AAC groupbuy)

 

Dyno, I just spent the last 4 hours outside with my brother and his best friend (both techs for mercedes) and we couldn't figure out why my headlights would stobe when the car was on, but work perfect when it was off. Just saw this and I'll be heading to radio shack tomorrow to pick up the capacitor. You saved me from a bunch of phone calls and headaches, I owe you big time.

The funny thing is, my HID fogs, same 55w, same ballasts, work perfectly fine without the extra power wire, relay and capacitor.

 

I'm still having the flicker problem with my lights. On step 16 when you say only connet the passenger side, what exactely do you mean. The driver side connect to the OEM harness and bypass the extra harness. I'm about ready to yank the headlights out the car and just drive during the day! Also I bought the fogs, are they just plug and play?

 

The factory harness / plug that normally goes to the driver-side light bulb, now gets taped up with electrical tape and tucked away.


The HID harness gets it's power from the passenger side OEM harness and then the HID harness splits up to provide power to both bulbs.

 

if you install the lights like instructed would you still have use of the high beams? b/c i have heard that after installing the lights that you lose the ability to use your highs.

 

No, the high beams will still work the same, as long as you have a Charger. I see that you have only one post, so I'm not sure if you have a Charger. But if you do, you can even install HID's in the high beams if you want. For the price of cheap HID kits nowadays, many replace all of them with HID. Lows, Highs, and Fogs.

But if you plan on doing this. Try not to use the relay harness. Buy HID kits that already have the capacitors installed to avoid using the relay harness completely.

 

Thanks a lot for the write up, it looks really easy.

Even though I said it looks easy, i'm not the best to do this. I'm very night to cars let alone electronics and I guess i'd rather have a professional install it. Couple questions for you,

Is there any wiring involved and making a separate switch for the HIDs or do they automatically come on once you turn on your low beams?

I ask because the guy i called up to install mine said he would charge 5 hours (and $60/hr) for the Lo's and i was shocked! I didn't think this was 5 hrs worth of work....I'm guessing he misunderstood me.

Do let me know,

Thanks,

ps3

 

That guy is stealing from ya. For a professional it would only take 30 minutes or less. The lights will light up with your standard light switch. I really think you can do it yourself. Many people here have done it and realized how easy it really was. Just set aside 2 hours so you can take your time and not rush it and you will be fine doing it on your own... for free.

Remember if you buy from HIDGate to ask for the capacitors (free) for the Chargers so that you do not have to buy the relay.

 

i have a question when you adjust the lights with that screw which way is up and down?? turning the screw right does that make them point down?

 

I really can't remember, but I'm pretty sure right is down.