I would recommend replacing the hardware and gaskets as cheap insurance against leaks. Blue Loctite won't stand up to the heat. I would recommend anti-seize if you feel the need. Also make sure that the header bolts are torqued to spec.

As far as nomenclature, this is indeed a shorty header and not a manifold. The company I work for manufactures these in our Grand Rapids facility (FCA is a large part of our business). What makes them so effective is that each runner is individually tuned for maximum flow. It's one of the best designs I've seen in a shorty and they're built to exacting standards for durability and performance.

The guys in the weld and bend departments complain all the time about how complex they are to put together!

They're definitely worth it if you can score a set and you'll see a good increase in low end power from swapping out the stock log manifolds. These won't outperform a long tube but for fitment, quality and price they're a solid upgrade.

It would be great to do a before and after dyno run to see the actual difference in the same conditions.

Hope that helps.

 

Hazmat11, thank you sir! I knew they would make a worth while mod just never knew this level of detail, thank you again sir.

Ok so new gaskets that's easy enough and no locktite needed that's good to know. I won't bother with anti-seize as I know adding a lubricant can mess you up when torquing bolts.

I got a set of brand new SRT manifolds delivered for $185 and a set of SRT mid pipes for $150. Exhaust shop I am friends with have quoted me $50 to remove mid muffler and connect the SRT mid pipes to the R/T system that remains. They use a mandrel bender so this is a great deal IMHO.

Next month I'm ordering the stage 1 Scat Pack pcm which the dealer my wife works for part time has quoted $500 even for the pcm and will allow me to do the install and they'll flash it free of charge.

As for before and after dyno that's a great idea! I'm going to go talk to my friend who has a dyno in his shop and see what he'd charge me for a couple pulls.

 

Oh almost forgot, yes I know lo g tubes would be best however going the SRT manifold and midpipes route won't hurt my warranty at all where as long tubes can cause problems with some dealerships and I just don't want any problems. I'm happy to guve up a couple HP to save any grief at a service department. That and I won't need a tune with the SRT parts like I would with long tubes and we all know a tune would kill my warranty.

 

I've installed JBA Shorties on my R/T and you are indeed correct. They're essentially the same. In fact the SRT manifolds may flow even a little better than the JBA's because they have slightly longer runners.

As far as hardware, you should get the OEM 6.1 exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets. The bolts come with an anti-seize and loctite like material already on them. Well worth the money to ensure they won't back out over time. The stock 5.7 gaskets have built in heat shields which you won't need since the 6.1 exhaust manifolds have a clamshell style heat shield built around them. The 6.1 gaskets are more robust and are a better match to the D-shape ports on the 6.1 manifolds.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Thank you very much SuperTrooper!
I'll get the 6.1 gaskets and hardware like you suggested.

 

Go OEM for the gaskets and bolts. Also, have patience with the install. Be very careful loosening any stubborn bolts. If they feel like they're fighting you, stop, drown it in penetrating fluid and try again. A broken bolt will be a PIA to deal with. Ask me how I know, Lol...

 

Gee Dave....how do you know? LOL! I'm laughing with you, never at you sir.

I would hope being built in July of 16 the bolts play nice.