I have a 2021 Scat Pack w/Daytona Package with roughly 18K miles on it. Got new tires around 15K miles (same tires that came with it). Recently had an alignment done and tires rotated. I now notice that the car pulls to the left when accelerating. Trying to determine what would cause this. I will take it back to the dealership but worried they will tell me it's fine. Wondering if this could be an bad alignment although it goes straight when cruising. Maybe radial pull from a bad tire? Was curious what others may think. Thanks.

Did they give you a printout of the alignment after it was done? I can look at it and tell you where to start.

 

Unfortunately, they did not give me the alignment printout. Does this sound like it is alignment related or an issue with the tires? I've never hit hit any curbs or potholes, just regular wear and tear.

 

It just seems a little odd the pull only happens when accelerating. Body pull on hard accelerating possibly.

 

Agreed. It makes no sense. It's sort of similar to torque steer in a FWD car but makes no sense in a rear wheel drive car. Since I got new tires 3K miles ago and just rotated them with the alignment, I wondering if it's a defect in one of the tires that is now on the back. Or maybe some issue when the did the alignment in the back.

 

Shooting darts here.
Is it possible that there is an issue with the drivetrain, where one wheel is pushing harder than the other?
The right rear is pushing more torque than the left, causing it to steer left on acceleration?

 

It's possible. I have a strange feeling that the thrust angle is off though.

Instead of being the rear tires pointing straight ahead evenly " [] []", they're probably "/ /" making the rear throw to the right and the nose pushing left, or "\ \" which would throw things the other way.

Think skateboard trucks when you lean to turn.

 

and tires rotated.

Stupid question, but how was the rotation done? Are you confident the front-to-back crisscross was done? Is it possible that one of the rears stayed on the rear? If they lost track of tires, you could just have crappy traction on one side. I'd check tread depth and visible wear in the rear.

 

I caught the guys doing mine today just pulling the rear to the front and Vice versa.
I asked them about the criss cross and they just kind of rolled their eyes, but they did it.

 

Also something I noticed. The front passenger side of the car sits 3/16 inches lower to the ground than the front drivers side. Again, fairly newish car and I've never hit anything, just standard driving. Can an alignment change the height of the car from the ground. Both back tires are even with each other. Only thing I could think is maybe this is to compensate for always having someone in the drivers seat. Not sure if it was like this when I bought it brand new or if this happened after they did an alignment. It's not visually noticeable but when you measure a couple reference points on each side you can then see that it's off. I did this with the car parked in a couple different flat pavement areas and got consistent measurements.

 

Also something I noticed. The front passenger side of the car sits 3/16 inches lower to the ground than the front drivers side. Again, fairly newish car and I've never hit anything, just standard driving. Can an alignment change the height of the car from the ground. Both back tires are even with each other. Only thing I could think is maybe this is to compensate for always having someone in the drivers seat. Not sure if it was like this when I bought it brand new or if this happened after they did an alignment. It's not visually noticeable but when you measure a couple reference points on each side you can then see that it's off. I did this with the car parked in a couple different flat pavement areas and got consistent measurements.

Getting all 4 corners the same height is a feat most can't accomplish. It definitely won't be accomplished without coil overs.

The caster is set from factory and is heavier on the left than the right (believe it or not, it greatly aids high speed stability and cornering). That does make a difference in the height, side to side.

If you're sitting still with the car running, turn the steering wheel to full left lock then to full lock to the right. Watch the fenders as you do it, one raises and the other one lowers.

3/16" difference isn't anywhere close to causing a drive issue.

 

Talk about way out on charger I just got. Still pulls to L @ 110ish. I know why I had to replace 2 tires that were 2 years old 4/32" and edge worn. Watch "morons" at other shop impact in circle so I brake lugs loose and use my torque wrench. Uneven torque. Retorque after trip. I know what I have to do...adjustable front upper control arms & camber bolts to fine tune. Big O said 1 degree out was fine. I'm a little OCD and like center for alignment. Lucky y'all aren't in NM as roads suck bad. Other charger srt8 has coil overs and I'm not fond of bumping down NM hyw even doing speed limit. Had to put godspeed "camber kit" on rear for that one and cross caster adjusted manually.

 

I would also check the tire pressure in each tire with a quality gage. Sometimes, issues of this type can be related to that. Also, as others have stated, have the alignment checked again. Make sure that they aligned BOTH the front and rear, as many shops only align the front. I hope this helps.

 

Balance your tires

 

Balancing tires has absolutely NOTHING to do with a pull or drift. Vibration? Yes. Pull or drift? No.

 

I meant to attach these pics earlier to show an example, but I agree it seems like a non-issue.

 

Took it back and they did another alignment but it made no difference at all. I will say it's more like it will start tracking to the left under harder acceleration if you take your hands off the steering wheel. Is this maybe a radial pull issue with the rear tires? Has anyone else noticed this? Attached alignment printout.

 

Took it back and they did another alignment but it made no difference at all. I will say it's more like it will start tracking to the left under harder acceleration if you take your hands off the steering wheel. Is this maybe a radial pull issue with the rear tires? Has anyone else noticed this? Attached alignment printout.

Are you having to fight the wheel to keep it straight, or does it only drift when you take your hand off the wheel?

I ask, because that could be the crown in the road, tire pressure or indeed a bad tire.

Double check your pressures..don't go by the stupid gauge in the car, they're notorious for reading close but not exactly right.

I don't remember if you have, but it doesn't take much to swap sides with the front tires to see if it swaps sides with the drift. If it does, it's the tire.

Also, make sure you're driving on different roads/ lanes to alleviate road crown. We have roads down here that I actually have to grip the steering wheel to keep it straight instead of my usual 2 finger grip on the steering wheel.

 

I have two SRT8s. Modified has Godspeed adjustable camber "kit" arm on Rear, 295/35 20. Stock has Adjustable upper control arms on front for Camber, have to cut a slit in plastic fender well. I would do both looking at at alignment. In midland, tx I had to pass cars and punched it to 130 so yea I like to go strait. I'd bet that helps even with Toe some. I know Toe is pointing inside or outside. Camber is tilt. Can do Adjustable Toe on rear also and might want to.

Yes I'm OCD also about alignments seeing how much rear 295/35 20 cost or tires period ow a days, same tire size as GTR that parked next to me in modified.
Alignment guy asked why I was doing one last month, "whats wrong". Drove to Midland and Carlsbad on shitty roads and I just want Alignment. Pisses me off not to see before. Pepboys does free check and offers 90 day warranty min. Lifetime for $200. Replaced 2 tires on Stock and all 4 on modified this year $$$$. Had picked up screw in both tires after replaced on stock.
"I CAN'T DRIVE 65" (unless heavy rain, slow traffic ect)