Well your car isn't STOCK with an aftermarket exhaust and filter. But to find out if it was tuned would be through the dealer.

 

What makes you thing your around 390? Dyno'd? 365 is stock, and exhaust may net you 5 or 10 hp at most but you loose low end grunt. 2010 SRT's dyno'ed aroud 390 and your no where near that.at the rear wheels
New ones are 370, weight about the same.
You won't pull sideways unless you turn off the traction control, and an R/T, you can only partly disable it, SRT's can turn it off

New ones, with traction control off should do better.
Lots of varaibles, mybe the newer ones have more intrusice stability control and such

Mt 12 SRT is jeyke and Hide, ESPandstabuility and traction on very calm car wirh a lot of power. Thrn it of f and its a tire shredding power sliding animal that will need ne tires very fast running a predatoro Hemi tunr tune for 93

 

Got it, but with the tires I am running and SRT hood from previous owner, I am in the 400hp or over from what I am seeing. The hack to turning off the traction control/esp COMPLETELY is on youtube, you simply go over 20mph, the turn the key as if starting the car, hold until you you hear the beep.
It will not grind your starter or harm anything, it just totally disables the traction control. Makes a HUGE difference.
My car is just crazy fast for what a stock RT should be, so wondering why, I've got 200 lbs of work tools in trunk, and still pulling to the right and burning rubber at 30mph rolls. Seems like someone tuned shift points, etc
(Not my 1st performance car by a long shot, used to work at a car lot so have driven tons of 5.0 's,Grand National 's, Vettes etc.)
Just trying to figure out what prior owner may have done!

 

Got it, but with the tires I am running and SRT hood from previous owner, I am in the 400hp or over from what I am seeing

Can't tell if you are trolling us or not....

 

If you're going sideways I'm thinking maybe the previous owner installed a limited slip rear diff or some kind of posi.

 

You are never going to know unless you get it checked. Or talk to the original owner (or whoever did the mods). You are assuming an awful lot by "seeing" 400HP +. If you really want to know, get it on a dyno. You may still not know what the PO did, but at least you would know what it's putting out.

 

Stock for stock the newer Chargers are faster and you are not stock. Enjoy the added power with the tuner if you have one.

GTO_04

 

2010 Charger R/T and 2016 Charger R/T both have the 5.7L Hemi rated at 370 HP (net HP at the crank). Assuming 10% parasitic loss through the drivetrain (transmission, driveshaft, differential, axles, etc ...) and RWHP will be approximately 333 HP; which is what most dyno tests have reported for stock RWHP.
Aftermarket modifications will increase the HP. Other modifications can eliminate or reduce the affects of the nanny controls (e.g torque management, traction control, etc ...).
If the previous owner had a DiabloSport tuner, they could have installed a custom tune that would have helped increase the HP/torque and turned off the nanny controls (or as they're called in TV ads ... driver assists).
DiabloSport claims an additional 15-20 HP and 15-20 TQ for the R/T with their canned tunes. HemiFever has email custom tunes that increase the HP/TQ above the canned tunes. How much more ... I'm not sure.
Contacting the previous owner is best, but if it's not possible ...
Dealership could check the PCM to see if it has a stock tune. They probably can't tell you anything about the tune if it's not stock - other than it's not stock. If it's not a stock tune, you're stuck with that tune unless you purchase a DiabloSport tuner; the dealership can only reflash the PCM with a stock tune.
.

 

Not trolling at all, I am just trying to figure out what mods have been done. Car definitely feels like more than just exhaust and air filter were done.

Plus it's on 22inch wheels, so isn't that supposed to hurt my low end torque? If stock hp is 370, then 400hp seems reasonable with exhaust and air filter, that's only a 30hp gain.

But the car drives like it has 425hp or better, so thinking more mods were done.

 

If the car has the R&T package, then it's actually rated at 372CHP/400CTQ. 400 ft-lb of torque is a lot and can make the car "feel" like it has a lot of power. The drivetrain loss seems to be lower on the 09+ years so getting about 335RWHP and 370RWTQ would be about right. Also, exhaust and air filter wouldn't net you 30+ HP. That aside, I can't really understand what you mean by "it drives" like it has 425HP. In any case, if it's still pulling then whoever owned it definitely took care of it. Have fun!

 

This is pointless unless you get your car on a dyno. It's pure speculation. If you really want to know your gonna need to have it checked out period.

Post some pics of your ride and welcome to the forum.

G

 

Sean at Hemifever is AWESOME...he did the tune on my SRT and numbers are in the signature... when my InTune came from him the screen was messed up... I called Diablo and they said 3 weeks out... I called Sean back and he put one in the mail that day ... great tune.. great customer service.

 

I can vouch for Sean as well.

Love the tune he did for my car!

 

BTW, called Sean called a couple of weeks after my initial tune and he did a tune for me that shut off my MDS... Can't say enough good things about Hemifever.

 

How do you know what you're putting out at the crank without pulling the motor?

After factory rating, you measure the RWHP. Don't play the drive loss game, it doesn't matter.

 

Or completely full of shi+

 

the car drives like it has 425hp or better, so thinking more mods were done.

The factory rated torque is 395 ft-lbs. Torque is what you're going to feel at initial acceleration and through the lower RPM range; until you reach max torque at 4200 RPM. Horsepower is going to be the major factor from there to 5800 RPM.
A custom tune with the CAI and exhaust can get you over 400 ft-lbs TQ (415 ft-lbs if the tune gets you the DiabloSport claim of +20 ft-lbs). Add to this the sensation from other tuning parameters (plus throttle response, minus torque control, plus firmer shifts, etc ...) and the seat-of-the-pants (a.k.a. butt dyno) is going to feel like a muscle car. The car is going to have performance ... it just will not be 425+ HP worth of performance. The exception is if there are additional modifications other than just CAI/exhaust and tune.
.

 

Yeah, but don't forget that SRT hood. I don't see where you factored that in. <gigglesnort>

 

To be fair the 09 & 10 Charger are slightly quicker than their 11-14 counterparts. This is simply due to a small increase in weight for the 11+..... 4031 in 2009 vs 4253 in 2014. The 8-spd in 2015 probably evened things back, but I haven't really bothered to check on that.

 

I'd be surprised if the previous owner left the tune on. Wouldn't that brick his $500 tuner? If it was me, I would be planning on selling that separately. If I ever do sell my Daytona, I'd take off my ram air hood and wheels and the tune and return to stock before selling it. I've already been offered over $1000 for the hood. I'd get another $500 for my after market wheels and couple hundred for the tuner. I'd hate to leave $2000 on the table as none of that stuff will increase the value a nickel.

 

Put it on a dyno and come back...

Even an SRT won't get "sideways" from that roll.

 

The Diablo tunes require a certain octane rating. E.G> if you have a 93 tune you're supposed to run 93 octane to get the full potential. Are you running 87?