Ok, there is already a great how-to on this topic, but it stops a little short in that the OP took the car/exhaust to a shop for the actual install. The original thread is great for part numbers and prep work though so it's certainly worth a read. My thread takes the install a step further, and goes into the actual install of the exhaust onto the car.
Here is the original thread "How To: RT Exhaust into your V6"
Now, down to business.
Parts you'll need for an install (I'll include the prep parts from the other thread here so you have a full shopping list).
Here is the list to install the way I did.
Here's the how-to.
Set it all up. Mount the brackets, and install the heat shield. This is pretty straight forward, you screw the brackets into the holes, and apply the heat shield over the fuel tank, and inside of the rear bumper. The other thread shows set-up very well so I'm not going to duplicate that info.
Here is the new info for anyone doing the install themselves.
Remove the stock exhaust. It's on there pretty tight. I found it easiest to just cut it off just behind the muffler since I wasn't planning of selling it or ever reusing it. Once it's in two pieces it comes out pretty easy. Anyway. Unbolt the two clamps on the inlet side of the stock Y-pipe. Then spray the rubber hangers with WD-40, and slide them off the exhaust. Don't forget to unhook the ground cable that's attached to the exhaust on the inlet side of the resonator. Remove the stock exhaust now.
Now you can create the custom "X-pipe".
Use the stock Y-pipe and cut it off the stock exhaust about 1.5" beyond the exit side (cutting the 2.5" single pipe). Slide the Y-pipe you bought over it making a stretched out X. I know this isn't a true X-pipe, and I know it's moderately restrictive. I did that on purpose, because as mentioned before, with the complete RT exhaust installed I lost some low end power, and fuel efficiency suffered a bit. What I made looks like this.
Next you'll add the "tailpipes" (now midpipes) that you bought to the newly formed X. Then cut the pipes on the RT exhaust about 1.5" before the bend in the passenger side pipe on the inlet side of the muffler. Attach the midpipes to the muffler (the flared end will fit over the stock pipes) and you've now got a complete system. To install you'll have half the X on the car, and half the X on the muffler side. Attached to the muffler it looks like this.
Now for some measurements, and install tips.
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here's the measurements on the pic.
If you look close you will see that the bought Y-pipe has a slightly wider center distance than the stock pipes (about .5" to be specific). I slid the midpipes, Y, and muffler together than used a rubber mallet to seat it all real tight. You'll need to remount the stock Y on the car after it has been cut to the correct length to allow the exhaust to fit under the car. Then slide the muffler in just as it looks in my pic (no clamps yet). Then clamped it together (or weld it if you can do that sort of thing) once installed on the car and you verify that everything lines up.
I also mentioned earlier about the random insulators/hangers. I bought two that were close to the right size. Then after removing the stock exhaust I moved the two insulators that were nearest the muffler to the passenger side brackets. That way all four of the rear most insulators were OEM. Then I put the two random insulators in their place nearest the muffler. Both sides of the exhaust have the same insulators in the same locations, so it hangs even just like it does when installed stock.
Now you simply spray WD40 on the insulators and hang it all up. Once you've got it all together and hung under the car, put your clamps on. Wa La, you're done. Hope that helps. Here's a pair of shots of it all clamped up under the car.
Here is the original thread "How To: RT Exhaust into your V6"
Now, down to business.
Parts you'll need for an install (I'll include the prep parts from the other thread here so you have a full shopping list).
- Stock brackets to hang the exhaust on the driver side. Part #4581723-AB roughly $25.62 for two. Actual price depends on your dealership because the original thread creator only paid $18.40 for them.
- Two 8mm bolts, 1.25" (31mm) long. I also bough lock washers, but you probably don't need them. Total for the screws and washers was $0.80 at Tractor Supply.
- Two rubber insulators/hangers part #4581790-AB. My dealership wanted $20 each so I bought a random pair at O'Rileys for $5 for both, and adapted them (I'll clarify after I list parts).
- Some sort of heat shield. You can buy a fuel tank heat shield for about $40-$50 depending on where you get it. Or you can buy an adhesive style from Summit, Jegs, etc for about $20-$30. I bought 2 rolls of adhesive for $29.90 at Summit, part # THE-14002.
Here is the list to install the way I did.
- Y-pipe part #MPE-10758 from Summit $27.36 total
- Four 2.25" U-clamps part #SUM-G4622 from Summit $12.68 total
- One 2.5" U-clamp part #SUM-G4625 from Summit $2.88 total
- Two 2.25" tail pipes part # 548624 from O'Reilly's $11.98 total (I bought 24" pipes as you'll see in the pics, but the 18" pipes I just listed will be plenty long enough)
Here's the how-to.
Set it all up. Mount the brackets, and install the heat shield. This is pretty straight forward, you screw the brackets into the holes, and apply the heat shield over the fuel tank, and inside of the rear bumper. The other thread shows set-up very well so I'm not going to duplicate that info.
Here is the new info for anyone doing the install themselves.
Remove the stock exhaust. It's on there pretty tight. I found it easiest to just cut it off just behind the muffler since I wasn't planning of selling it or ever reusing it. Once it's in two pieces it comes out pretty easy. Anyway. Unbolt the two clamps on the inlet side of the stock Y-pipe. Then spray the rubber hangers with WD-40, and slide them off the exhaust. Don't forget to unhook the ground cable that's attached to the exhaust on the inlet side of the resonator. Remove the stock exhaust now.
Now you can create the custom "X-pipe".
Use the stock Y-pipe and cut it off the stock exhaust about 1.5" beyond the exit side (cutting the 2.5" single pipe). Slide the Y-pipe you bought over it making a stretched out X. I know this isn't a true X-pipe, and I know it's moderately restrictive. I did that on purpose, because as mentioned before, with the complete RT exhaust installed I lost some low end power, and fuel efficiency suffered a bit. What I made looks like this.

Next you'll add the "tailpipes" (now midpipes) that you bought to the newly formed X. Then cut the pipes on the RT exhaust about 1.5" before the bend in the passenger side pipe on the inlet side of the muffler. Attach the midpipes to the muffler (the flared end will fit over the stock pipes) and you've now got a complete system. To install you'll have half the X on the car, and half the X on the muffler side. Attached to the muffler it looks like this.

Now for some measurements, and install tips.
Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here's the measurements on the pic.

If you look close you will see that the bought Y-pipe has a slightly wider center distance than the stock pipes (about .5" to be specific). I slid the midpipes, Y, and muffler together than used a rubber mallet to seat it all real tight. You'll need to remount the stock Y on the car after it has been cut to the correct length to allow the exhaust to fit under the car. Then slide the muffler in just as it looks in my pic (no clamps yet). Then clamped it together (or weld it if you can do that sort of thing) once installed on the car and you verify that everything lines up.
I also mentioned earlier about the random insulators/hangers. I bought two that were close to the right size. Then after removing the stock exhaust I moved the two insulators that were nearest the muffler to the passenger side brackets. That way all four of the rear most insulators were OEM. Then I put the two random insulators in their place nearest the muffler. Both sides of the exhaust have the same insulators in the same locations, so it hangs even just like it does when installed stock.
Now you simply spray WD40 on the insulators and hang it all up. Once you've got it all together and hung under the car, put your clamps on. Wa La, you're done. Hope that helps. Here's a pair of shots of it all clamped up under the car.

