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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone put their Charger away during winter or do most folks drive it all year 'round? Of course, if you live in the south, this question doesn't really apply to you...
 

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Does anyone put their Charger away during winter or do most folks drive it all year 'round? Of course, if you live in the south, this question doesn't really apply to you...
I park it once the snow comes and stays....not yet though:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I park it once the snow comes and stays....not yet though:grin:

Yeah, I do the same, although I'm a little fuirther south than you - we still get about 100" of the white stuff each year. Normally, that's from November though April.

Do you do anything special once you park it? Put it on jack stands? Clean it? Put a good coat of sealant on the paint? Trickle charge the Battery?
 

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Yeah, I do the same, although I'm a little fuirther south than you - we still get about 100" of the white stuff each year. Normally, that's from November though April.

Do you do anything special once you park it? Put it on jack stands? Clean it? Put a good coat of sealant on the paint? Trickle charge the Battery?
Here is a Thread talking about the same thing:
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56367&highlight=Storage

Here was my reply to it:
"I am also storing my car because I live in MN, there is a guy next to me that will store my car for 315.00 for six months. He owns about 50 some car’s that are worth from $50,000-$100,000 cars no joke. He has been storing car’s for years and told me that I need to get my car almost to empty and then fill the car up with the gas that has no corn in it, the Octane is like 100%. Next make sure you put a bunch of dryer sheets in the car to make sure the mice stay out of the car, they hate those bounce sheets. Also keep the battery on a small trickle charge; the chargers are not that expensive. Don’t worry about the tires having flat spots, they will work themselves out when you start driving, you only had to worry about that back in the day. He said that’s all you need to do, and you are good to go, if anyone would know better it would be that guy. I am just going to get an oil change right before I store it. He also said dont worry about starting them up every so often, he never does that."
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure about that gas thing you mention - it can't be 100% octane - but I get the idea - put a fresh tank of gas in it, and a bottle of StaBil wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 

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I'm gonna throw a shur-trax from my pick-up truck in the area where the spare would normally go. That should give me enough traction. Really the ESP is enough I drove one last year. But a little extra traction can't hurt. Anybody think I'm nuts for adding weight.
 

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just drive it!
 

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plan on driving mine. No reason not to
 

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I just picked up a set of Blizzak LM25's on Borbet rims(not my first choice, but very limited choices for an SRT in 18") and plan on driving year round. On the storage topic I would add that you can avoid flat spotting your tires( if that is a concern of yours) by lifting the car off the ground but then lowering it down with stands under the A-arms to keep the suspension in compression while still keeping the tires off the ground. That is what auto museums do when storing for an extended period. In lieu of that you can overinflate the tires to max pressure.

A few other things deserve mention-(Note- I have taken this from a Porsche site, but it still should apply)..

Change Oil & Filter
It's important to put fresh oil and a new filter in the car. Otherwise, contaminants in the old oil will have a field day corroding the insides of your engine.

Gas Up
Make sure the tank is as full as possible to prevent undue air in the gas tank. Air (along with its moisture) will result in condensation in the tank. We don't want that water in the gas and the injection system. Use a gasoline stabilizer such as Stabil. Put this in before putting in the gas. Run the engine a while to make sure that the stabilized gas has filled the entire injection system.

Over-inflate Tires
Inflate them to perhaps 40 or 45 psi. I have not seen any problems of flat spotting from storage with today's radial tires. However, if you feel more comfortable, you roll the car a little every 2 weeks or so. (Don't jack it up and rotate the tires. If you do, when you lower the car the suspension will be loaded up.) Check the pressure every few weeks to watch for slow leaks.

Some people put the car up on jacks. I don't. I've heard some say that this makes the suspension to sag and shouldn't be done. Perhaps that's true. I've noticed no problems from letting it sit on the ground (for the few months).

Clean Interior
Spend some time and get everything really clean. Clean the glass, inside and out. Clean the carpets. Clean and condition the leather. Clean behind the pedal cluster. You won't believe the dirt you'll find. Clean all the nooks and crannies. Don't forget to also clean the trunk, etc. There is a full driving season of junk and dirt in the car. When Spring comes you won't clean it. You'll hop in and drive it. You might put some moth balls inside the car (more on this below). And you might put a bag or two of the silica gel which absorbs any moisture in the air.
Wash Car
But... do not put it away wet! This is tricky if you try to drive the car right up to that first snow day. You should never put your car away wet unless you want to encourage rust to form everywhere the water collects. You might try anticipating the advent of snow and cleaning the car and driving it a little to dry it out before storage. But then how to get the dust off before storing it? Interesting problem, heh!? A gentle wipe down with wet/damp towels followed by drying (with towels not chamois) can work if the car is basically clean to start. Or you can use one of the "quick detailer sprays" available at an auto parts store. They do a good job.
Wax Car
Maybe... It may be difficult to get in a good waxing of the car depending on the temperature when you store it. High quality wax will be too difficult to put on when it's very cold. But, you may luck out and get this done.

Clean Wheels
And we mean really clean them! Brake dust is very corrosive. You do not want this sitting on your wheels for the winter. Remove the wheels from the car. Clean the outside and the inside. The cleaning process is slightly different depending on the type of wheel you have. Some amount of wheel cleaner such as P21-S may be needed to get the insides really clean. Once they are really clean, wax them. Wax the both the insides and the outside. Clear coated wheels should be waxed completely. If you are ambitious, put two coats of wax on them. If you keep your wheels waxed like this you will find that brake dust does not adhere to them as it otherwise might. They will clean up much easier year round. You may not ever need to use chemicals such as P21-S if you follow this process.
Cover Openings
You should seal up the exhaust tips to help prevent rust, etc. inside the exhaust system.
Brake Fluid
Guess what? You really should change the brake fluid. It's hydrophilic. This basically means it loves to absorb moisture. (Previously we called this "hydroscopic". But [email protected] pointed out that that word doesn't exist and it's "hydrophilic".) Moisture sitting in the equipment over the winter means corrosion. This means brake problems. Porsche, along with all car manufacturers, recommend changing the brake fluid at certain intervals. However, as was the case with the engine oil, storage allows contaminants to remain in the system without being burned off or flushed. Thus, it is important to put the car away with fresh fluids. If the car has been used on the track this is even more important.
It's probably not a bad idea to change the transmission (and differential) fluid as well. Although, I think this is perhaps less critical than the engine oil and the brake fluid. Certainly good maintenance will have you putting new fluids in the transmission, differential, brakes, etc. at least once a year anyway. So this may be the time to do it.
Leave the battery installed and make sure you have it on a trickle charger. Make sure, as we mentioned above, that the trickle charger has "auto-charge sense" and will turn on/off as necessary so as not to over-charge the battery.

This last part may not apply to our newer cars, but for completion:
Here's an engine storage procedure from Klaus Fischer at Amalfi Racing. He and his friends at the Porsche Museum in Germany use this for their historic Porsche race cars:

Take out spark plugs
Spray WD 40 into cylinders
Spray WD 40 into air intakes
Turn over the engine by hand with wrench a couple of times
Every three months repeat above (Spark plugs stay out of engine)
Also every three month turn wheels, or move car into different location to change the wheel bearing position
As well shift into one gear and move gear box internal around
Every six month drive the car!
Hope this helps.
 

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Excellent post!!

Leave the battery installed and make sure you have it on a trickle charger. Make sure, as we mentioned above, that the trickle charger has "auto-charge sense" and will turn on/off as necessary so as not to over-charge the battery.
I just got the Battery Tender Plus. It's just too easy to use and can stay connected all winter. Now a question for heartdoc or anyone else in the know:

I know you can't charge a frozen battery and the Battery Tender instructions indicate that. BUT what if it's already charging with a trickle charger BEFORE it freezes (freezes during the charge process)? Is this a problem or will the charging process prevent the freezing? My garage isn't heated so I was wondering about this.
 

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Excellent post!!



I just got the Battery Tender Plus. It's just too easy to use and can stay connected all winter. Now a question for heartdoc or anyone else in the know:

I know you can't charge a frozen battery and the Battery Tender instructions indicate that. BUT what if it's already charging with a trickle charger BEFORE it freezes (freezes during the charge process)? Is this a problem or will the charging process prevent the freezing? My garage isn't heated so I was wondering about this.

I don't know where you are from, but I stored my motorcycle in my garage that's unheated last winter with a battery tender and had no problems with battery freeze. something else you could do is pull the battery out and set in on the tender somewhere in your house that will stay warm. especially if you aren't using you car all winter.
 

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I will be driving mine all year as long as the roads are dry. Just like now. I only drive it when the roads are dry and no chance of rain or snow or ice.:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A few other things deserve mention-(Note- I have taken this from a Porsche site, but it still should apply)..
That's a great post - lotsa good info there for those of us that put 'em away for the winter.

I'd like to throw a plug in there for the Complete Detail Kit that I offer - it'll help with the cleaning section of that post, and can be used to down to about 40F without any problems. Remember ChargerForum members get an additional discount on all my products.
 

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I leave the battery in the Porsche connected to a battery tender all winter and have never had any problems. I do have an Optima battery though.
 

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I stored my car last year and it's already in storage this year. Basically, I bought these flat-stopper things that you roll your car up onto. They're rounded to help keep your tire's normal shape and worked great last year. I do the oil change and fill up too. Then I add a fuel stabilizer and cover it with the car cover. I save cleaning the interior until a few weeks or even a month or two after it's in storage. It gives me a reason to spend more time with my car on those cold winter days.

Keep in mind, the only reason I store my car is because of the gravel they use here. It gets so cold that salt doesn't work, so they just toss gravel on the road. That's why 99% of cars from up here have cracked windshields.
 

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Oct-March usually.

I just park her in the garage, put a 15w solar trickle charger on the battery, Stabil in the gas tank, couple mouse traps under the car just in case. Then every month I come out, start it and let it run for 20-30 minutes in the garage.
 

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:cry: Yup...Charger season comes to an end today at 5pm--when she goes into storage until April. I just got my oil changed this morning and i'm inthe process of giving her a good wax job...I polished her up the other day, so I'm doing the finishing touches along with the interior...I vacuumed and I just have the inside to wipe down with some of that aerospace stuff...and she's good to go.

Moth balls/bounce sheets--Check!
Inflate tires to maximum pressure--Check!
Steel wool in exhaust--Check!
Leave windows open slightly--Check!
Disconnect and remove battery--Check!
Continue frequenting Chargerforums.com to avoid Charger withdrawal blues--Check!

:cry: It's a sad day today!
 

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Yeah, I do the same, although I'm a little fuirther south than you - we still get about 100" of the white stuff each year. Normally, that's from November though April.

Do you do anything special once you park it? Put it on jack stands? Clean it? Put a good coat of sealant on the paint? Trickle charge the Battery?
I actually do drive it a bit every month so I don't do anything special. Where I live we have "chinooks" where it will warm up for a few days and all the snow will disappear. When the roads dry up I will take it out for a few days but avoid major roads where there is a chance to get stone chips. When the snow comes back it gets parked again.
 
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