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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a flat two weeks ago and had to be towed because the tire wouldn't hold any air. The tire shop looked at it the next day and blamed the issue on a buildup of corrosion on the rim (all of which are factory). They told me they cleaned the rim again, and remounted the tire without any problem. I picked it up the next day because of the tornados in the area, and drive it home..noticing a new road noise from the passenger side, seemingly from the wheel/tire that was the issue the day before. It sounds like mud tires on a pickup, and changes pitch/volume depending upon the speed of the car. Usually begins to be noticeable around 25mph. No other signs or symptoms at this time, just the sound.
 

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Check the tread and make sure it's even. If you ran it for a distance with low pressure, there's a good chance the tread is screwed and causing the noise you're hearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check the tread and make sure it's even. If you ran it for a distance with low pressure, there's a good chance the tread is screwed and causing the noise you're hearing.
I traveled less than 50 yards on the complete flat. A "heat ring" was shown to me the night I dropped it off, but wasn't ever brought up in future conversations. Would it be unreasonable to ask them to mount another used tire on the rim to see if that eliminates the sound?
 

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If you drove on a flat that tire is toast just replace the tire and call it a day.
Doesn’t matter the distance you broke the belts in that tire 😱
 

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I agree with the directional comment. There may be an arrow or the word outside molded in the sidewalk. Had new tires bought and mounted on my other car and three out of four were mounted backwards. Brought it back and had them reverse the tires.
 

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If you drove on a flat that tire is toast just replace the tire and call it a day.
Doesn’t matter the distance you broke the belts in that tire 😱
X 2 -- that tire is junk - heat ring is a dead giveaway. Drive it back to the shop slowly so it doesn't fly apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you drove on a flat that tire is toast just replace the tire and call it a day.
Doesn’t matter the distance you broke the belts in that tire 😱
Thanks for the advice. I didn't know it'd be so catastrophic to drive at all on this complete flat, but crossing over a busy highway...didn't have much choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
New tire; Same problem...
Next solution suggestion?
 

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You may have bent the rim when driving it with the flat -- it doesn't take much to ruin an aluminum wheel.
 

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It's the front passenger.
The more and more I research it, I think it may be the wheel hub/bearing.
Chasing a bad bearing is fun. Sometimes you can't get any play in the normal rocking top to bottom method.


As you're driving and going left and right turns, you should hear the sound change.

For example, you think it's the right front. If you're going around a left hand corner, the noise would be louder. Right hand corner it wouldn't be as loud.

If it's louder around right hand corners and more quiet on left hand corners it would be the left front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Chasing a bad bearing is fun. Sometimes you can't get any play in the normal rocking top to bottom method.


As you're driving and going left and right turns, you should hear the sound change.

For example, you think it's the right front. If you're going around a left hand corner, the noise would be louder. Right hand corner it wouldn't be as loud.

If it's louder around right hand corners and more quiet on left hand corners it would be the left front.
Right. Because of the physics of how the inertia carries the car, but what if I can’t distinctly tell a difference between directions I’m turning and it just causing the humming noise?
 

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Right. Because of the physics of how the inertia carries the car, but what if I can’t distinctly tell a difference between directions I’m turning and it just causing the humming noise?
Best bet then is to jack up the front wheels and give it a spin. If it drags or has top to bottom play, it's likely the bearing.

I have had to pull everything and spin the hub by itself to see if it felt "trashy". Usually if I've gone that far though, I've got a new bearing ready to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Best bet then is to jack up the front wheels and give it a spin. If it drags or has top to bottom play, it's likely the bearing.

I have had to pull everything and spin the hub by itself to see if it felt "trashy". Usually if I've gone that far though, I've got a new bearing ready to go in.
It does have minimal play and the tire shop blamed it on the control arm needing replaced. I haven’t dealt with bearings before so this will be a learning experience. The YT video looks easy but just want to make sure it’s the issue I’m fixing instead of throwing new parts on there and still not fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
On top of everything else, my ABS light, EPS and something else lights up occasionally.
I know these are tale tale signs of wheel hub issues, but just need some reassurance before I purchase the new hub.

Also...should I replace both fronts at the same time, or just the bad one?
 
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