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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I wanted to start a discussion on consistency for running low 1/4 times. I'd like this to not be about vendors or specific vendor products, but more about combinations that work. Things that are done. What parts (non-vendor denominational) it takes overall. What can be done to bring the numbers down. I am going to share everything I did to get to the 11.28's in an extremely sincere effort to try and get as many people there, regardless of what vendors parts they are running. Again the goal is to share as much information as possible to prove that it is possible to the non-LX/SRT-8 community that we are a viable competitor in the performance market. I'd like to show the Ford and GM crowd what we can do.

So here is as much as I can remember about what was done prior to and during my 11.28 all engine run.

Keep in mind weather played a huge part in the cars ability to perform, so I want to keep weather out of it. This is a conversation around steps and generalizations as to parts that would allow for these times if the weather is good. We already know the weather conditions from the run so for those interested in that level of detail, the original thread is posted here:

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55883

I will try to break this out in a few sections:

Aftermarket Parts List
Vehicle Prep (lightening the vehicle weight)
Tire Pressure and Fuel
Staging Lane, Burnout Box, Light Staging & Run Details
Section 1: Aftermarket Parts List

1. Stroker 6.1L shortblock: 426 with 10.3:1 compression
2. Ported Heads
3. Ported Intake (light port work, not polished with thermal intake gaskets)
4. Aftermarket Camshaft
5. Aftermarket Torque Converter
6. Long Tube Headers & High Flow CATs
7. CATBack Exhaust
8. Aftermarket Limited Slip Differential
9. Aftermarket Halfshafts
10. Drag Radials (only had 3 passes on this new set that night)
11. Diablo Predator with Race Tune

Section 2: Vehicle Prep (Lightening the vehicle weight)

1. Removed passenger seat
2. Removed Rear Seat cushion
3. Removed Rear Seat backs
4. Removed trunk deck lid (empty trunk: forgot to remove Kicker Subwoofer)

Section 3: Tire Pressure and Fuel

1. Tire pressure at 16 psi
2. Fuel tank empty (literally ran out of gas at the end of one run)
3. Refueled with 3 gallons of 110 Octane Unleaded Racing Fuel

Section 4: Staging Lane, Burnout Box, Christmas Tree (Staging Light) & Run Details

On this particular run that car had been sitting for about 45 minutes while we acquired a gas can and funnel to refuel the car that was sitting a half a mile away at the end of the track.

STAGING LANES: I then pulled into the lanes and waited for another 10 minutes before our lane started to move forward. By this time there were only about 40-50 cars running so the lane didn't sit still long enough for me to stop and start the car more than 3 times when the lane first started moving, all with about 1-2 minutes in between starts and stops. Then it was moving too quick to turn it off, and I figured I wanted to keep the battery voltage higher so the battery wasn't overcharging during the actual run. It ran for about 4 minutes before I actually ran.

Temperatures: Engine Coolant temp was at 167 degrees before I started my burn out. Oil Temp was at 193. Fan mod was running.

BURN OUT BOX: I did my normal burnout. Roughly 4-5 seconds in the water box, at 5700 to 6000 RPM's in 1st gear, then lifting my foot off the brake and letting the car drift out of the burn out box at the same 5700-6000 RPM's. I let the car roll about 10 feet, then stop and dry hop (briefly floor it) to make sure the tires have traction. They did. As a side note, after the burnout, I know the tires are ready if there is no tire spin doing a dry hop. For the most part after my burnouts the tires do not spin doing a dry hop, but that doesn't seem to stop the tires from spinning off the line.

CHRISTMAS TREE / STAGING LIGHT: I pulled up to the line, rolled forward to lite the top light on the Christmas Tree, then with one foot on the brake and the other on the gas, I stalled the converter (braked and lightly revved up the engine) to 2250 - 2300 RPM's. I then lifted enough pressure off the brake to inch the car forward to lite the second yellow while keeping the RPM's up at 2250 0 2300 RPM's.


RUN DETAILS: As soon as the light turned green, as quick as I could, I lifted off the brake and put the accelerator all the way to the floor. No hesitation or rolling into the throttle. The tires chirped for probably 1/4 to 1/2 a tire rotation and then they hooked up.

The shifts were at: 1st 6150 RPM's and 2nd 6050 to 6100 RPM's, 3rd at 6000, and 4th at 5900 to 5950 RPM's.

Airfuel Ratio at just before crossing the line was 12.6 A/F on the Wideband.


That is all the details I can think of, but should give us a good start for this conversation. I'd like to keep the rhetoric , chest pounding, and cranial showboating completely out of this thread. It would be great if for once we could all come together without thread jacking, or this turning into a pissing contest (said with the greatest amount of respect). Let's keep it informational, so we can figure out how to get as many people as we can into the lowest numbers their mods can provide.


So my big quesiton to everyone is, what things can we do to get the number even lower? I have a few thoughts, but will save them for later to keep the conversation going in case they don't come up.

Let the brain storming begin...



Jeremy S.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the link is bad and what was your ET?
Link fixed. Sorry about that. I also removed the company signature to keep the vendor aspect out of this. The ET is in the thread link. :)
 

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yeah i just read it, didnt realize you had two threads going i was reading that earlier, this is the greatest thing i heard in a while...i cant wait till my cars paid off...this is the route i am going for sure...wish i had the money now good job boys...:rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
 

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to go faster you could always just completely gut the car put lexan windows in it with some carbon fiber pieces for the trunk and the hood...but that would kill the whole look of the car...this car still has the interior in it im sure right? minus the seats you took out for the run...if so scratch the first line...i think to go even faster would be a gear change...i think thats the think really holding these cars back...theres always power adders but i love the idea of NA...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gears would be a good start. There are some things in the works that should be available shortly on this topic.
 

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Gears would be a good start. There are some things in the works that should be available shortly on this topic.
I Think gears is really what will/is needed to bring the 1/4 times down. Evern w/ all the mods a bunch of have, in the final analyis, our gears our high oriented NOT 1/4. need some what? 3.90, 4.10, 3.73's ??????
 

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Yeah im Definently thinking full carbon fiber hood with 2 extra inserts, which includes a main functional hoodscoop. Also carbon fiber trunk. Also maybe a lighter type of rim(if applicable).
 

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11.28 is one hell of a run! What was you 60' time?

To add to this discussion....

Gears, weight reduction, and adjustable rear suspension links to start :)
 

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I read somewhere that a worn front end (bushings) would give you more lift on the front and transfer the weight where you need it: at the back, for traction. This trick was part of an article of all the little tricks one can use to go faster...
 

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60ft was a 1.58. For weight transfer, remove the front sway bar. Gears are not yet available which is why we use a 25" tire. Its short, but it changes the overall gear ratio similar to a set of 3.55 gears.
 

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Would using lighter internals make any difference? (i.e. forged crankshaft, etc. etc.) I also agree carbon fiber body panels would help shed some weight (hood, trunk, etc.)
 
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