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Wow. Sorry to see that!:serious:This is what happens when the "Hemi Tick" is mis-diagnosed!
The cam bearings were also badly scored and I found metal filings on the oil pickup tube screen. I also found 3 other lifters that were going bad. The roller bearings had collapsed.
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Glad to hear you put the new engine in the car! The pictures you gave show where the rollers were sliding and not spinning like they should. This is typical with lubricants that don't have enough frictional capabilities in the lubricant. While you don't want to have friction between the parts, you DO want friction in the lubricant to make the sliding, turning and moving parts to slide, turn and move!This is a 2012 Dodge Charger Pursuit. I purchased it last year and it had about 100,000 miles on the odometer and I got one hell of a deal. After six months and about 9 thousand miles, I started hearing the tic, I was told by the dealership not to worry about it. The car was out of warranty and was purchased "as is". I have since replaced the engine with an engine from a chrysler 300. The only difference between the the two engines is the severe duty oil cooler that is on the pursuit engine but missing from the chrysler 300. Since I purchased all new coolant hoses, it wasn't a big deal.
And just think, you could have spent $168.60 to solve it with our materials in it! The car isn't the problem, the fuels and lubricants are!I just traded my 2014 Charger R/T for a manual 2014 Mustang GT. I only had 6k miles on the Charger. The Hemi Tick was so bad I could hear it at all speeds (even with the windows up and radio turned up). My Dodge dealer said it was normal. I couldn't tak e it anymore. Especially because I spent $33k for a ticking car. No excuses for it.
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Brian, I had your oil in my '13 Daytona for about 7,000 miles and the tick never really changed... put the oil in at 20,000. Don't know if I needed to do another change, but it didn't seem to improve? I don't mind the tick, just saying my experience was different. Traded that car for the SRT... going to do a change soon since it's about to hit 1,500 miles on the factory fill.And just think, you could have spent $168.60 to solve it with our materials in it! The car isn't the problem, the fuels and lubricants are!
Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
Yes, it does take time to quiet down. I have had people say that it stops very quickly and others it has taken 2 full changes with ACES IV running in it together to get it to stop. It is best to get it as soon as possible to prevent clearances from being produced in the first place!Brian, I had your oil in my '13 Daytona for about 7,000 miles and the tick never really changed... put the oil in at 20,000. Don't know if I needed to do another change, but it didn't seem to improve? I don't mind the tick, just saying my experience was different. Traded that car for the SRT... going to do a change soon since it's about to hit 1,500 miles on the factory fill.
That's incredible. From my experience it is not normal (the dealer is FoS). I have a 2012 Hemi R/T with approximately 25K miles and the engine noise is very quiet and smooth. I lift the hood with the engine running and everyone always comments how quiet it is (aftermarket exhaust is another matter but it was designed that way). My only guess is the spec tolerances in the engines must vary enough that some engines are quiet (close to blueprint) and others are at the other end of the spectrum. I was very surprised to learn the 5.7L Hemi in-spec oil pressure is 25 - 110 psi at 3000 RPM (Dodge Charger Workshop Manual). I don't know if other engines have a oil pressure spec that wide but that's quite a range in my opinion. In-spec at Curb Idle is 4 psi minimum. I know we're running low viscosity oil (5W20) but I'm going to be freaking out if I see a 4 psi reading at idle with my car.The Hemi Tick was so bad I could hear it at all speeds (even with the windows up and radio turned up). My Dodge dealer said it was normal.
The oil pressure needs to be 10 psi per 1000 rpm minimum on any V8.That's incredible. From my experience it is not normal (the dealer is FoS). I have a 2012 Hemi R/T with approximately 25K miles and the engine noise is very quiet and smooth. I lift the hood with the engine running and everyone always comments how quiet it is (aftermarket exhaust is another matter but it was designed that way). My only guess is the spec tolerances in the engines must vary enough that some engines are quiet (close to blueprint) and others are at the other end of the spectrum. I was very surprised to learn the 5.7L Hemi in-spec oil pressure is 25 - 110 psi at 3000 RPM (Dodge Charger Workshop Manual). I don't know if other engines have a oil pressure spec that wide but that's quite a range in my opinion. In-spec at Curb Idle is 4 psi minimum. I know we're running low viscosity oil (5W20) but I'm going to be freaking out if I see a 4 psi reading at idle with my car.
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And just think, you could have spent $168.60 to solve it with our materials in it! The car isn't the problem, the fuels and lubricants are!
Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
Here's the thing that virtually noone realizes.........these engines and related components have more stress on them than at any time in the past....including the muscle car era. They run hotter because they are small blocks not big blocks and have to meet all the regulations on higher specific output. That specific output per cc or cubic inch generates much more heat. While they have tried to deal with some of that with metalurgy, lubricants are not capable of dealing with this heat properly.Brian, when I purchased the brand new Charger, I did so with a reasonable expectation that the car would operate normally like any other new car. Had I done my research before hand, I would never have purchased a ticking Hemi. I did my research before trading it in and decided not to try Quantum Blue. Why should I have to spend extra money for specially blended oil? I've now owned the 5.0 as long as I had the Charger and haven't had any issues. And just think, not only is the Coyote not ticking, but I didn't have to spend any extra money on specially blended oil.
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Here's the thing that virtually noone realizes.........these engines and related components have more stress on them than at any time in the past....including the muscle car era. They run hotter because they are small blocks not big blocks and have to meet all the regulations on higher specific output. That specific output per cc or cubic inch generates much more heat. While they have tried to deal with some of that with metalurgy, lubricants are not capable of dealing with this heat properly.
While performance is going in one direction producing more than ever, the lubricants and fuels are progessively getting worse....thinner and with less and less protection. Fuels that have no lubricity AT ALL, ethyl alcohol that produces formic acid and lubricants with virtually no reserve protection!!
The reason you come to us is to protect your car due to how you use it. All of us performance enthusiasts want more and more power....pushing a vehicle that is not only on the edge but past that when when we augment the intakes, gears, injectors, drag slicks etc. Driving them normally like a secretary will probably be ok. But we don't buy these performance cars to drive them like Miss Daisy!! We run them hard and fast! The OEM fluids are adequate at best and poor at worst due to trying to meet everything they are required to meet. CAFE, MPG, EPA etc. Add to that the stress of driving it like you stole it and you will run into a problem!
Do as you choose, I am just offering an expert service to produce what no other company offers. Extra performance and carrying capacity in both fuels and lubricants without the worries!
Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com