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Just wondering, but what did you do regarding the windage tray? I know the cast aluminum unit doesn't fit inside the LX style oil pan, which is why the 3.5 (and 2.7) went to a sheet metal tray when these cars were introduced. The former LH cars had a similar aluminum windage tray, but a bit different. I plan to simply use the LX 3.5 tray, but I believe it will need to be shimmed a but lower, as the longer stroked engine has it's rods almost touching part of the tray.
Windage tray is not an issue. The two I've done had cast aluminum trays and just a standard outer oil pan gasket that is reusable. Bolted up the correct pan and everything was good on that end. Make sure and remove the rear oil seal to pan bolts! They are tiny and hidden. You can easily cause yourself a lot of problems here.
One thing to watch out for is the thickness of the oil pan flange. Earlier ones, 2005-2006, had really thin flanges. Maybe 1/4" thick. Later ones had thicker flanges 1/2" or better. You can only use the correct bolts for whatever pan you use. It matters, believe me.
2005 & 2006 3.5's are differently configured in several ways. If you're putting the new engine into the same year car as what it came out of you're okay. Valve covers and coil packs are different for each year here. Also the timing covers and AC compressors are different for these years too. They have to match the car. 2007 are kind of their own year to to a certain extent. 2008-2010 are pretty much the same and are close to 2007's.
This is a viable swap for 2.7's also. Just requires finding a 3.5 to swap parts from and a computer or reprogram of the 2.7 Computer. This can get tricky here too. There are some issues with ABS and NON-ABS cars. You also need a 3.5 wiring harness for your specific year car and transmission. This can get tricky and hard to find but not impossible. I've done it so I've been through the process. Luckily there was a You Pull It yard close by.
 

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Anyone compile a list of 4.0s eligible for this swap?

Year-Make-Model etc?

Have a 2010 AWD 3.5 that is likely bad, pulling apart after this heat passes through region, to know more and was interested in this swap idea. Hoping the AWD pan will fit onto the 4.0 in same manner.

I checked local and national junk yards through the car-part.com website and the 4.0s were slightly more expensive than the 3.5s now. So unless smaller junkyard not in that system, the price no longer a factor, now the wider bearing journals, that certainly does fair well on its own to consider the swap.

Such an inadequate oil pickup assembly, small diameter then a shield over with a small slot to pick up oil.
If the oil does scorch in these 3.5 rides from 7500 mile recommended changes vs the 3000 people here say to do, then likely pieces of that brunt oil get sucked up, get trapped inside when engine shuts down and just build up eventually clogging that pickup...
 

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Anyone compile a list of 4.0s eligible for this swap?

Year-Make-Model etc?

Have a 2010 AWD 3.5 that is likely bad, pulling apart after this heat passes through region, to know more and was interested in this swap idea. Hoping the AWD pan will fit onto the 4.0 in same manner.

I checked local and national junk yards through the car-part.com website and the 4.0s were slightly more expensive than the 3.5s now. So unless smaller junkyard not in that system, the price no longer a factor, now the wider bearing journals, that certainly does fair well on its own to consider the swap.

Such an inadequate oil pickup assembly, small diameter then a shield over with a small slot to pick up oil.
If the oil does scorch in these 3.5 rides from 7500 mile recommended changes vs the 3000 people here say to do, then likely pieces of that brunt oil get sucked up, get trapped inside when engine shuts down and just build up eventually clogging that pickup...
4.0's come in several vehicles. Nitro's and Caravans primarily, 2007-2010 only. The oil pan shouldn't be a problem. The blocks are identical in every way. They are just bored and stroked. Caravan engines are running about $700-$800. While 3.5's are $2000-2500 from what I'm seeing. The torque difference would be a huge benefit for AWD. it's worth it. Getting ready to do another one. 2008 Charger with 3.5. Supposedly the engine runs but has damage. May not be that bad but with 228k on it, I'm sure it's new engine time.
 

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2007-2010 Nitros and Caravans/Town & Country's mostly. 4.0's are about a 1/3 of the price of 3.5's around here. I can get you one for probably $1000. Shipping would be $250 minimum. Haven't shipped anything in awhile so it could be a lot worse.
 

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2007-2010 Nitros and Caravans/Town & Country's mostly. 4.0's are about a 1/3 of the price of 3.5's around here. I can get you one for probably $1000. Shipping would be $250 minimum. Haven't shipped anything in awhile so it could be a lot worse.
See, I thought only RWD or AWD would fit, so transverse 3.5s and 4.0s are the same? good to know.
Did they design the block any different with the 4 sp vs the 5sp or is the back of block all same where mounts to trany as well, I saw reference when looking for a 3.5 that said only 5 speed would work, not having one out or another to look after after, have to go by what others report, thanks for the info... I only looked at Nitro n Charger/Magnum/300 blocks in that link I provided, car-part.com , they have most of the local junk yards listed in their collection of assigned junk yards, and there was where collected prices.
 

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See, I thought only RWD or AWD would fit, so transverse 3.5s and 4.0s are the same? good to know.
Did they design the block any different with the 4 sp vs the 5sp or is the back of block all same where mounts to trany as well, I saw reference when looking for a 3.5 that said only 5 speed would work, not having one out or another to look after after, have to go by what others report, thanks for the info... I only looked at Nitro n Charger/Magnum/300 blocks in that link I provided, car-part.com , they have most of the local junk yards listed in their collection of assigned junk yards, and there was where collected prices.
The 3.5L block and 4.0L blocks are the same when it comes to mounting holes. The block has the correct holes for the 42RLE VLP transmission or the W5A580 transmission.
 

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The 3.5L block and 4.0L blocks are the same when it comes to mounting holes. The block has the correct holes for the 42RLE VLP transmission or the W5A580 transmission.
Good to know, from all the specific questions in databases about whether or not 4 speed or 5 speed, then if FWD RWD or AWD, and then a VIN code, it was making searching for a fairly priced 4.0 more difficult than it needed to be.

With all those questions being asked when searching for a motor, they made it appear there were differences between the blocks themselves, as there is with whole engine assemblies, for direct swaps, but for those willing to change an intake, valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, sensors, whatever may be, to get a motor running under their hood, they sure made that information cloudy at best... Thanks for clearing this up.

Assuming referring to only the aluminum block variants, the bare block and heads are all cast in such a way all the different accessories pans brackets and sensors can be used across platforms assuming one has the correct components time and patience to make it work, this is what I am reading here.
 

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All of the blocks are the same, 3.5 & 4.0. Doesn't matter if its AWD, RWD, or FWD. They made them universal fortunately. They just added different accesories for the required application.
The bolt pattern for the bellhousing is the same between 3.5 & 4.0 no matter the application. The reason they list engines in reference to the 4 speed or 5 speed trans is because the oil pan bolt pattern for the trans is different. As far as it bolting to the block, that is all the same. It's just the lower part of the pan that bolts to the transmission that is different. A 3.5l bolted to a 4 speed trans is the exact same engine bolted to a 5 speed trans. I've put a 5 speed engine on a 4 speed trans a couple of times. They just changed the oil pan out. Doesnt matter if its AWD either. Swap the pan and you're good. The issue here is the 2005/2006 oil pans. They have a thinner mounting flange to the block and require matching/shorter bolts than the 2007-2010 engines.
The only other thing you have to watch for is the 2005/2006 engines. Same core engine and heads but the valves covers and front timing covers are different. Easily swapped out. Also, the AC compressor mounting rear hole is in a different location on the block. There may be a work around but I haven't gone that deep. As long as your working on a 2007-2010 LX body car the 4.0l will swap over okay. Along with any 3.5l. 3.5's came it other vehicles too that can be cheaper options than LX body engines.
2.7 & 3.5 computers are the exact same parts number too. They are just programmed differently. 3.5 & 4.0 will run on a 2.7 computer nut it will run lean and throw codes for it. It's a short term fix. The best thing about this is you can get 2.7 computers pretty easily and maybe cheaper since they aren't in high demand. Then use them to have them reprogrammed to a 3.5/4.0.
 

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Any specific years to avoid? Some with poor cam profiles or other issues, in either the 3.5 or the 4.0? I currently have a clattering 3.5 in my 2010 Charger AWD.
Or are we talking anything with aluminum block good to go?
That 2005/2006 issue you mentioned, is this both upper and lower cover or just upper cover?
I'd rather not pull a lower cover if have to pull crank gear off.
Thanks again, this clears up a little confusion or lack of a combined reference for this series for me...
 

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Any specific years to avoid? Some with poor cam profiles or other issues, in either the 3.5 or the 4.0?
Or are we talking anything with aluminum block good to go?
That 2005/2006 issue you mentioned, is this both upper and lower cover or just upper cover?
I'd rather not pull a lower cover if have to pull crank gear off.
Thanks again, this clears up a little confusion or lack of a combined reference for this series for me...
The cams from the 4.0L are ever so slightly better but less than Inertia's 1.0 version cams, Aluminum block means 05 to 10 (LX platform) Prior is considered LH. On the 205/06 engines, they come with metal valve covers. The upper front cover and the valve covers needs to be swapped. This is due to them being plastic on all other models.

One thing I'll add is if you're going from a 2.7L to the 4.0L in an 08+ car. The PCM for vehicles with the WA5a580 transmissions will have a dead plug without any pins on the PCM. This is for the external TCM. The vehicles with 42RLE transmissions will have 3 good plugs on the PCM but no external TCM. The 42RLE has its TCM information encrypted into the PCM on the 08+ models.
 

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Think we need someone to chime in on how to space the 3.5 steel pan in a 4.0, If needed, from web claims 1/8" is a typical distance from rotating assembly, I did not measure, see comment above on how it was close, not sure how close since did not measure..
 

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I had an issue where thought the windage tray was my problem, think snagged something in reluctor ring installing motor, thought had it all blown clear of everything possible, smucked into crank position sensor mounted on front of trany. I pulled sensor out, shot some paint in hole, spun it around, peeked through starter opening, saw nothing wrong, put sensor back in, and she spins over, no marks on sensor, on the paint I put on reluctor, so was little worried since tray caught some questions up above as to what was smacking in my instance... so glad did not have to pull back out, for time being...
 

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I had an issue where thought the windage tray was my problem, think snagged something in reluctor ring installing motor, thought had it all blown clear of everything possible, smucked into crank position sensor mounted on front of trany. I pulled sensor out, shot some paint in hole, spun it around, peeked through starter opening, saw nothing wrong, put sensor back in, and she spins over, no marks on sensor, on the paint I put on reluctor, so was little worried since tray caught some questions up above as to what was smacking in my instance... so glad did not have to pull back out, for time being...
It's best to pull the crank sensor when installing the engine. It is very tight tolerance and is easy to hit it with the flywheel and damage it. Wind age tray is not a problem as its inside the engine
 

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Think we need someone to chime in on how to space the 3.5 steel pan in a 4.0, If needed, from web claims 1/8" is a typical distance from rotating assembly, I did not measure, see comment above on how it was close, not sure how close since did not measure..
Theres is no need to space either the 3.5l/4.0l pan. The 05-10 blocks are identical in every way. I have used the 3.5l pan on the 4.0l twice now and theres is no difference or gap at the bellhousing. The two front studs on the oil pump pretty much position the pan. Before you tighten any of the oil pan bolts, make sure it is flush with the rear of the block. If it's in the car, shove the pan against the bellhousing first.
 

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The cams from the 4.0L are ever so slightly better but less than Inertia's 1.0 version cams, Aluminum block means 05 to 10 (LX platform) Prior is considered LH. On the 205/06 engines, they come with metal valve covers. The upper front cover and the valve covers needs to be swapped. This is due to them being plastic on all other models.

One thing I'll add is if you're going from a 2.7L to the 4.0L in an 08+ car. The PCM for vehicles with the WA5a580 transmissions will have a dead plug without any pins on the PCM. This is for the external TCM. The vehicles with 42RLE transmissions will have 3 good plugs on the PCM but no external TCM. The 42RLE has its TCM information encrypted into the PCM on the 08+ models.
On the 05-06 engines, the valve covers are die cast aluminum, not metal. 05 is it's own year as well as 06 is too. 05 uses one bolt for the coil pack. Coil pack is unique to the 05 only year as is the harness as the plug is different. 06 has a 2 bolt coil pack and it's own unique plug. The base block is the same for 05-06. 07 uses plastic valve cover that uses studs to attach it. The wiring harness attaches to the studs. 08-10 uses a plastic cover but it uses recessed bolts to attach it. Therefore the harness attaches to molded holes in the cover instead of using the studs. Make sure and use the right one. Coil packs are the same 07-10.
Front timing covers: 05-06 are unique for two reasons. 1) the camshaft sensor mounting is unique, 2) AC compressor mounting is unique.
07-10 covers are the same but can only be used on 07-10 blocks, 3.5l or 4.0l. You cannot swap covers from the two groups. They will bolt up but then you really have an AC mounting cluster on your hands where nothing will work.
There are two pieces to the outer cover. Upper and lower. You have to remove the balancer to remove the lower. The inner is just one piece and is basically the upper. The oil pump is the lower portion but does not need to be changed.
PCM(5 speed vs 4 speed): 5 speed cars(identified by only having "D" & "+/-" on the shifter) use a PCM for engine control and another for Transmission control(in dash in front of drivers left knee). The PCM with have 4 connectors but the Green connector wont have any pins in it as it's for the transmission.
On the 4 speed cars, the shifter will have D, 3, 1 on it. The engine and transmission all all controlled by the PCM. Therefore the the engine and transmission harness are all one piece. The PCM still has 4 connectors but it uses all four of the plugs. The orange connector is primarily engine control. The green connector, C4/4th plug, primarily runs the transmission.
You can't swap PCM's or transmissions. At least not easily.
There is also another connector, C100 that a few of the wires go through to the computer. Depending on the year, different pin layouts exist and you have to match them up correctly for the transmission to shift right and the alternator to charge right.
I've done several of these swaps. It's all fun and games until you get to the wiring part. That can easily kill the project if you dont know what you're doing.
 

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My only issue now is this front AWD driveshaft. I had the differential balancing on the frame and it fell to the front and the slip yoke came off with no way of knowing how it went back on, I took a guess, 1 of 4 options and feel vibration. But I also swapped tires from a 14 AWD that are dated from 2016 and 2 have quite a few weights, places were some used to be and an oddball steel clamped one inside of rim I want off.. so whether or not I am off on the shaft or a balance is needed on a tire, have not figured it out yet as shops are months out even for a tire balance...
Going to start a thread and see if anyone has images of their front shaft, there was some factory markings from when they balanced it, not sure if marks line up or not.. I took my best guess, some match front to back 1 matched where weight is. again, not sure where coming from, is 50-75 mph range, could even be a bad axle.. I did swap L Front when had apart as that boot was gone.
Wish had access to a hoist, working off plywood floor in cramped shop no dream of mine...:sneaky:
 
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