2007 Dodge Charger SE 2.7L V6 RWD
Question.... What transmission do you have?
Windage tray is not an issue. The two I've done had cast aluminum trays and just a standard outer oil pan gasket that is reusable. Bolted up the correct pan and everything was good on that end. Make sure and remove the rear oil seal to pan bolts! They are tiny and hidden. You can easily cause yourself a lot of problems here.Just wondering, but what did you do regarding the windage tray? I know the cast aluminum unit doesn't fit inside the LX style oil pan, which is why the 3.5 (and 2.7) went to a sheet metal tray when these cars were introduced. The former LH cars had a similar aluminum windage tray, but a bit different. I plan to simply use the LX 3.5 tray, but I believe it will need to be shimmed a but lower, as the longer stroked engine has it's rods almost touching part of the tray.
I kept my 4 speed that came with the car. Has lower first gear than the 5 speed supposedly. Swapping transmissions is another situation. It's not just plug and play. Wiring harnesses are different, computers are different. A whole nother ball of worms.Question.... What transmission do you have?
4.0's come in several vehicles. Nitro's and Caravans primarily, 2007-2010 only. The oil pan shouldn't be a problem. The blocks are identical in every way. They are just bored and stroked. Caravan engines are running about $700-$800. While 3.5's are $2000-2500 from what I'm seeing. The torque difference would be a huge benefit for AWD. it's worth it. Getting ready to do another one. 2008 Charger with 3.5. Supposedly the engine runs but has damage. May not be that bad but with 228k on it, I'm sure it's new engine time.Anyone compile a list of 4.0s eligible for this swap?
Have a 2010 AWD 3.5 that is likely bad, pulling apart after this heat passes through region, to know more and was interested in this swap idea. Hoping the AWD pan will fit onto the 4.0 in same manner.
I checked local and national junk yards through the car-part.com website and the 4.0s were slightly more expensive than the 3.5s now. So unless smaller junkyard not in that system, the price no longer a factor, now the wider bearing journals, that certainly does fair well on its own to consider the swap.
Such an inadequate oil pickup assembly, small diameter then a shield over with a small slot to pick up oil.
If the oil does scorch in these 3.5 rides from 7500 mile recommended changes vs the 3000 people here say to do, then likely pieces of that brunt oil get sucked up, get trapped inside when engine shuts down and just build up eventually clogging that pickup...
See, I thought only RWD or AWD would fit, so transverse 3.5s and 4.0s are the same? good to know.2007-2010 Nitros and Caravans/Town & Country's mostly. 4.0's are about a 1/3 of the price of 3.5's around here. I can get you one for probably $1000. Shipping would be $250 minimum. Haven't shipped anything in awhile so it could be a lot worse.
The 3.5L block and 4.0L blocks are the same when it comes to mounting holes. The block has the correct holes for the 42RLE VLP transmission or the W5A580 transmission.See, I thought only RWD or AWD would fit, so transverse 3.5s and 4.0s are the same? good to know.
Did they design the block any different with the 4 sp vs the 5sp or is the back of block all same where mounts to trany as well, I saw reference when looking for a 3.5 that said only 5 speed would work, not having one out or another to look after after, have to go by what others report, thanks for the info... I only looked at Nitro n Charger/Magnum/300 blocks in that link I provided, car-part.com , they have most of the local junk yards listed in their collection of assigned junk yards, and there was where collected prices.
Good to know, from all the specific questions in databases about whether or not 4 speed or 5 speed, then if FWD RWD or AWD, and then a VIN code, it was making searching for a fairly priced 4.0 more difficult than it needed to be.The 3.5L block and 4.0L blocks are the same when it comes to mounting holes. The block has the correct holes for the 42RLE VLP transmission or the W5A580 transmission.
The cams from the 4.0L are ever so slightly better but less than Inertia's 1.0 version cams, Aluminum block means 05 to 10 (LX platform) Prior is considered LH. On the 205/06 engines, they come with metal valve covers. The upper front cover and the valve covers needs to be swapped. This is due to them being plastic on all other models.Any specific years to avoid? Some with poor cam profiles or other issues, in either the 3.5 or the 4.0?
Or are we talking anything with aluminum block good to go?
That 2005/2006 issue you mentioned, is this both upper and lower cover or just upper cover?
I'd rather not pull a lower cover if have to pull crank gear off.
Thanks again, this clears up a little confusion or lack of a combined reference for this series for me...
It's best to pull the crank sensor when installing the engine. It is very tight tolerance and is easy to hit it with the flywheel and damage it. Wind age tray is not a problem as its inside the engineI had an issue where thought the windage tray was my problem, think snagged something in reluctor ring installing motor, thought had it all blown clear of everything possible, smucked into crank position sensor mounted on front of trany. I pulled sensor out, shot some paint in hole, spun it around, peeked through starter opening, saw nothing wrong, put sensor back in, and she spins over, no marks on sensor, on the paint I put on reluctor, so was little worried since tray caught some questions up above as to what was smacking in my instance... so glad did not have to pull back out, for time being...
Theres is no need to space either the 3.5l/4.0l pan. The 05-10 blocks are identical in every way. I have used the 3.5l pan on the 4.0l twice now and theres is no difference or gap at the bellhousing. The two front studs on the oil pump pretty much position the pan. Before you tighten any of the oil pan bolts, make sure it is flush with the rear of the block. If it's in the car, shove the pan against the bellhousing first.Think we need someone to chime in on how to space the 3.5 steel pan in a 4.0, If needed, from web claims 1/8" is a typical distance from rotating assembly, I did not measure, see comment above on how it was close, not sure how close since did not measure..
On the 05-06 engines, the valve covers are die cast aluminum, not metal. 05 is it's own year as well as 06 is too. 05 uses one bolt for the coil pack. Coil pack is unique to the 05 only year as is the harness as the plug is different. 06 has a 2 bolt coil pack and it's own unique plug. The base block is the same for 05-06. 07 uses plastic valve cover that uses studs to attach it. The wiring harness attaches to the studs. 08-10 uses a plastic cover but it uses recessed bolts to attach it. Therefore the harness attaches to molded holes in the cover instead of using the studs. Make sure and use the right one. Coil packs are the same 07-10.The cams from the 4.0L are ever so slightly better but less than Inertia's 1.0 version cams, Aluminum block means 05 to 10 (LX platform) Prior is considered LH. On the 205/06 engines, they come with metal valve covers. The upper front cover and the valve covers needs to be swapped. This is due to them being plastic on all other models.
One thing I'll add is if you're going from a 2.7L to the 4.0L in an 08+ car. The PCM for vehicles with the WA5a580 transmissions will have a dead plug without any pins on the PCM. This is for the external TCM. The vehicles with 42RLE transmissions will have 3 good plugs on the PCM but no external TCM. The 42RLE has its TCM information encrypted into the PCM on the 08+ models.