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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, this is the procedure for dropping the pan, replacing the filter, and refilling the fluid you removed. This does not cover flushing, or complete fluid replacement. Those procedures require equipment only shops have. This only changes about 4-5 quarts out of a total fluid capacity of 13 quarts, so it does not replace all of it by any means, but does add about 1/3 new fluid, and changes the filter, which most flushes dont do without added expense.

Lots of folks will perform this service, then have the fluid exchanged using a machine, for the best of both worlds. On to the show........

1 Raise the vehicle SAFELY as far as posible. I used a two post lift in the military hobby shop. It can be done on ramps, but will be a pain in the tuckus.

2. You can remove the pan without removing the trans crosmember, if you have the right extensions/universal joints for your male torx bit. I thinks its easier to just drop the crossmember, but I was on a lift. The six bolts to do so are shown below.





3. Next, you will want to get a BIG drip pan, at least 2 feet across, as this next bit WILL be messy. Lots of folks fit a drain plug the first time, so its not so messy the next time. You will want to break all six bolts loose, just a bit, to ensure you dont have any heartache 5 bolts in:) Then start loosening them from one corner out, remove that one coner bolt, like you see in the pic. Then loosen the others from that corner out, so that that corner drops down first. This lets a lot of fluid out before you drop the pan compleltely, making that step not so messy.



4. So now you have the pan out and drained, and it looks like what you see below. Note the lack of a gasket, that was pulled off before off I took this pic. This pan, and more importantly, that black circle you see, CLEAN them. That cicle will be tough, its actually a magnet that traps particles, and as you see from the closeup where I mushed it, quite a lot of them.





5. Now that the pan is cleaned, install new gasket, if your kit came with one, or clean the heck out of the old one and reuse it. Should now look like this. Note position of the magnet, in back of pan. If you put it in front, when installing the pan, it will draw the filter out of the valve body. Not optimal:)

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Continued

6. Now to remove the old filter and clean/inspect the gasket surface. Heres what it looks like. If its cool enough, use a lintfree cloth to clean, and a then a finger to feel, that gasket surface. Nothing will catch inperfections like a finger. Then just tug the old filter straight down, expect a gush of fluid, glasses are a good bet to avoid splashes in the eye.




7. Here it is with the filter removed, and a shot of the new filter. Note the slot in the valve body and the hole the filter tube came out of. These of course match up with the new filter, if not, get thee to the parts store. When you push the new filter in, it will sag a littel when you let go. Thats normal, just make sure its tab is lined up with the slot.



8. Almost done. This is the new filter, note tab and tube. Install, then install pan and crossmember and fill with 4.5 quarts.

 

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nice write up! don't suppose you used QB, lol..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nope. Regular old ATF4:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No, it can be done, with the right technique and fittings, but it can be pretty involved. If the factory lines have a place to disconnect, you have to source fittings that let you take dirty fluid out one line while feeding fresh into another. If not, you have to cut the lines and make these.

Big risk is not feeding the fresh fluid in the right amount back in, and knowing when you have removed that amount, so you dont run the trans under or over.
 

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I know this thread is about a year old, but I want to go ahead and do this. Is there any reason why you would just replace the fluid and filter from the pan and not flush vs dropping the pan, changing the filter and flushing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Optimum would be having a fluid replacement (NOT a power flush, on older trans, those can disturb dark gods of debris and crud that will eat your trans line an orca eats a seal) in conjunction with this. This is so that folks dont pay the shop $100 for this part of it, when it really costs about $30-40 for the filter and fluid. I'm a big believer in doing everything you can yourself, and only relying on pros when you need to.

Just recently had my car in for the transmission interlock recall. Nice lady told me the following.

A) Bad power steering leak, need to replace high pressure hose, +$350
B) Need trans serviced, fluid is dark
C) Need diff fluid replaced, is dark.

I know there is residue on the power steering gear, but its not a major leak, that gunk has been building up for quite a while, and the fluid level is fine, checked just last week:)

I know the trans fluid is dark, one of the results of the method I used, but its fine

The diff, I serviced that myself just about 10-15K ago, so I know its fine. I didnt ask if the tech cracked the fill port to check it, no need to ask:)
 

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Optimum would be having a fluid replacement (NOT a power flush, on older trans, those can disturb dark gods of debris and crud that will eat your trans line an orca eats a seal) in conjunction with this. This is so that folks dont pay the shop $100 for this part of it, when it really costs about $30-40 for the filter and fluid. I'm a big believer in doing everything you can yourself, and only relying on pros when you need to.

Just recently had my car in for the transmission interlock recall. Nice lady told me the following.

A) Bad power steering leak, need to replace high pressure hose, +$350
B) Need trans serviced, fluid is dark
C) Need diff fluid replaced, is dark.

I know there is residue on the power steering gear, but its not a major leak, that gunk has been building up for quite a while, and the fluid level is fine, checked just last week:)

I know the trans fluid is dark, one of the results of the method I used, but its fine

The diff, I serviced that myself just about 10-15K ago, so I know its fine. I didnt ask if the tech cracked the fill port to check it, no need to ask:)
Thanks for the speedy response. I've been dormant around these parts (I bought a house 3 yrs ago and I had to "adjust" :lol:). I saw the other thread with flushing the unit complete. So to do it completely, you could:

Drop the pan and clean it, change the filter, reseal everything, add new fluid and then follow the instructions of the other thread. The issue to me is not knowing the "exact" amount that flowed out. I know it's 13 quarts, but unless you can measure the fluid that actually left, then there could be an issue. Neither job seems that rough, as I prefer DIY, especially if the dealer wants to eat my debit card like an orca eats a seal.
 

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5. Now that the pan is cleaned, install new gasket, if your kit came with one, or clean the heck out of the old one and reuse it. Should now look like this. Note position of the magnet, in back of pan. If you put it in front, when installing the pan, it will draw the filter out of the valve body. Not optimal:)

Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like the magnet swapped ends of the pan during the cleanup. I'm thinking that the first photo shows its location just after the pan was dropped so that is where it is supposed to be put back. In the clean pan photo it looks like the magnet is in the front of the pan and would be right under the filter. The pan is rotated 180 degrees between photos which makes it appear the magnet is in the same place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll try and double check that tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like the magnet swapped ends of the pan during the cleanup. I'm thinking that the first photo shows its location just after the pan was dropped so that is where it is supposed to be put back. In the clean pan photo it looks like the magnet is in the front of the pan and would be right under the filter. The pan is rotated 180 degrees between photos which makes it appear the magnet is in the same place.


It did, good eye. See, I pulled it out right after I removed the pan, and put it back in for the pic:) This pic shows the pan installed, and the divots you see near the magnet in the before cleaning pic are actually at the rear. So, the correct placement for the magnet is as shown in the clean picture.




 

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It did, good eye. See, I pulled it out right after I removed the pan, and put it back in for the pic:) This pic shows the pan installed, and the divots you see near the magnet in the before cleaning pic are actually at the rear. So, the correct placement for the magnet is as shown in the clean picture.
Did the dirty pan photo show the original magnet location or did you just put it back in the wrong place for the photo? In your first post, you said "Note position of the magnet, in back of pan", but the clean pan photo shows the magnet in the front where it will interfere with the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Pretty sure I just tossed it in there, knowing I was going to put it back where I found it originally for the clean pic. I just checked the 2006 service manual, and it doesn't mention the magnet, but does show it in the drawing. shows it just forward of the passenger side middle bolt, up against the side. But I know I didnt find it there.
 

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Optimum would be having a fluid replacement (NOT a power flush, on older trans, those can disturb dark gods of debris and crud that will eat your trans line an orca eats a seal) in conjunction with this. This is so that folks dont pay the shop $100 for this part of it, when it really costs about $30-40 for the filter and fluid. I'm a big believer in doing everything you can yourself, and only relying on pros when you need to.

Just recently had my car in for the transmission interlock recall. Nice lady told me the following.

A) Bad power steering leak, need to replace high pressure hose, +$350
B) Need trans serviced, fluid is dark
C) Need diff fluid replaced, is dark.

I know there is residue on the power steering gear, but its not a major leak, that gunk has been building up for quite a while, and the fluid level is fine, checked just last week:)

I know the trans fluid is dark, one of the results of the method I used, but its fine

The diff, I serviced that myself just about 10-15K ago, so I know its fine. I didnt ask if the tech cracked the fill port to check it, no need to ask:)
What "transmission interlock recall" are you refering to? I had my car in a few months ago at the dealership for something and they never said anything about a recall... what year and model do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Search "pink and thingy", you will get all you need:)
 

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