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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2011 charger I bought it used with 34,000 miles it now has 56800 mile I have had to put two sets of back tires on the back due to them eating out on the inside to the point the belts are showing. The tire are leaning in like this / \ when u look at the car from the back. Took it to a small dodge place and they sent us to their body shop and we where told they have never seen anything like this before and really don't know what could be causing it and sent us back to dodge. They had us schedule an appt with the larger dodge place in our area to see if they could figure out what was going on. Any advise/suggestions. The car has never been wrecked and the body shop states they don't see where it has been repaired.
 

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I have a 2011 charger I bought it used with 34,000 miles it now has 56800 mile I have had to put two sets of back tires on the back due to them eating out on the inside to the point the belts are showing. The tire are leaning in like this / \ when u look at the car from the back. Took it to a small dodge place and they sent us to their body shop and we where told they have never seen anything like this before and really don't know what could be causing it and sent us back to dodge. They had us schedule an appt with the larger dodge place in our area to see if they could figure out what was going on. Any advise/suggestions. The car has never been wrecked and the body shop states they don't see where it has been repaired.
If its leaning like this / \, then its the camber needs to be fixed
 

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We have had that checked they told us the camber was good that the toe in is what the problem was that while the tire are leaning in that on the toe in is making a "V" instead of being in line and that there was no way to adjust this as the adjustment they would do is maxed all the way out.
 

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You can buy offset bushings to correct toe in and chamber. Eibach makes them for cars that are lowered to correct the chamber. If its toe in, your tires will look feathered if its chamber the top of the tire will lean in or out and the tire will have a narrow edge that is wearing much faster. Also a feather tire will feel sharp as you drag your hand across the tread and smooth in the other direction. Feathering is very easy to see

Has the car been lowered by a previous owner.....check the tread out and get back to us and we will figure out a solution!
 

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You can buy offset bushings to correct toe in and chamber. Eibach makes them for cars that are lowered to correct the chamber. If its toe in, your tires will look feathered if its chamber the top of the tire will lean in or out and the tire will have a narrow edge that is wearing much faster. Also a feather tire will feel sharp as you drag your hand across the tread and smooth in the other direction. Feathering is very easy to see

Has the car been lowered by a previous owner.....

Thanks... No it has never been lowered it is all stock
 

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if it is a toe in issue SBC has a solution...new control arms. If its chamber they have adjustable bushings that correct up to 2 degrees...now go check your tread and give us an update on the wear please:)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As for the tread it is ate out down to the belts on both back tires about 1.5-2" wide but the rest of the tire is good
 

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the printout from sears shows excessive toe out.. not camber and not toe in.
the picture is like a top view down on your rear tires, so the front of the tires are pointing outward.

at least it looks like both rear tires are toe out by the same amount, which kind of tells me its not out because of an impact.

seems like its not that far out, i'm surprised there isn't enough adjustment to bring it back.

i just had a similar problem with my front alignment on my Jeep, and the dealer installed an offset bushing like someone already mentioned that gave them more adjustment ability to get it back where it was supposed to be.
 

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That is definitely a toe-out situation on your rear tires (think your feet, when you have the front of your feet pointed outward, that's toe-out, pointed inward or toes together, toe-in). I agree with electrum, that's not that far out, I've aligned quite a few Chargers, 300s and Magnums, they all seem to need a rear toe adjustment and 9 times out of 10, it's fairly easy to adjust. The only time I've run into a problem is a car with age and corrosion, the lock nut holding the adjustment bolt sometimes won't loosen. With your car being a 2011, I don't think you'll have that problem.

The spec. is 0.20* Total Toe in the rear (toed-in), which is 0.10* toed-in per side. Now your tires... you're going to have to get another set. You can't drive on tires with steel cords showing. It's too risky and dangerous. After you get the car aligned correctly and a new set of tires on the back, remember to rotate them every 6,000 miles. Very important for optimal life and wear.
 

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That is definitely a toe-out situation on your rear tires (think your feet, when you have the front of your feet pointed outward, that's toe-out, pointed inward or toes together, toe-in). I agree with electrum, that's not that far out, I've aligned quite a few Chargers, 300s and Magnums, they all seem to need a rear toe adjustment and 9 times out of 10, it's fairly easy to adjust. The only time I've run into a problem is a car with age and corrosion, the lock nut holding the adjustment bolt sometimes won't loosen. With your car being a 2011, I don't think you'll have that problem.

The spec. is 0.20* Total Toe in the rear (toed-in), which is 0.10* toed-in per side. Now your tires... you're going to have to get another set. You can't drive on tires with steel cords showing. It's too risky and dangerous. After you get the car aligned correctly and a new set of tires on the back, remember to rotate them every 6,000 miles. Very important for optimal life and wear.

The centric "lock nut" is adjusted as far as it will go and the toe out is still off. I've already took it to 2 alignment shops and they are tell me it can't be adjusted any more that it is maxed out
 

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The centric "lock nut" is adjusted as far as it will go and the toe out is still off. I've already took it to 2 alignment shops and they are tell me it can't be adjusted any more that it is maxed out
It's a eccentric bolt, the lock nut holds it. Once the nut is loosened the bolt should spin freely. If you can't get the adjustment just right with the bolt, sometimes you need to physically twist the wheel inward on the front. Though I have not needed to do this on a Charger/300/Magnum yet, as all of the ones I've aligned go right into specs., I have had other cars with similar eccentric bolt setups that I just couldn't get quite where I wanted it. Simple manual manipulation of the wheel got the wheel where I wanted it, then I tightened the nut down to lock it in. This often takes 2 people to do, in your case one person to twist the front of the wheel inward, so it toes-in to the correct 0.10*, then the second person under the vehicle to hold the eccentric bolt in it's current position, while tightening down the lock nut. If the desired adjustment is still unattainable, rotate the eccentric bolt to a different position, then re-try twisting the wheel to the desired spec. If it still will not come into specs., then you likely have bent or damaged suspension components. I've always been able to adjust the rear toe in these cars with no problem.
 

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It's a eccentric bolt, the lock nut holds it. Once the nut is loosened the bolt should spin freely. If you can't get the adjustment just right with the bolt, sometimes you need to physically twist the wheel inward on the front. Though I have not needed to do this on a Charger/300/Magnum yet, as all of the ones I've aligned go right into specs., I have had other cars with similar eccentric bolt setups that I just couldn't get quite where I wanted it. Simple manual manipulation of the wheel got the wheel where I wanted it, then I tightened the nut down to lock it in. This often takes 2 people to do, in your case one person to twist the front of the wheel inward, so it toes-in to the correct 0.10*, then the second person under the vehicle to hold the eccentric bolt in it's current position, while tightening down the lock nut. If the desired adjustment is still unattainable, rotate the eccentric bolt to a different position, then re-try twisting the wheel to the desired spec. If it still will not come into specs., then you likely have bent or damaged suspension components. I've always been able to adjust the rear toe in these cars with no problem.
I would have to agree on this technique!:bigthumb:
 
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