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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to wrap up my modding for a while and have a couple of options I'm looking at. Just to preface this, DRLs and different tires aren't really something I'm looking to spend money on. I've got a 2013 SRT and my current mods are Corsa Extreme, AirRaid CAI, and intune w/CMR tune from Johan. I'm considering doing a throttle body replacement, high flow catted mids, or any other ideas? I've got about $500 to spend. I've done some homework on both, and am at a loss. I have no plans of ever adding boost to the car, but may add a cam down the road. Thanks in advance for the input!
 

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Throttle bodies are only recommended if you need to move exponentially greater amounts of air. Since you're not going to boost the car it's not necessary. If memory serves, the stock throttle body can move around 800 cfm. so it's not a restriction. You can go with high flow catted mids but the factory exhaust is so efficient that any gain you see will be minimal.

I would save the mod money for a cam or head upgrade since that will offer you the most bang for the buck. Even when you add those, more work on the intake or exhaust side shouldn't be required unless you really want to max the combination.

TLDR: I wouldn't spend money on catted mids or a throttle body. Save it for a cam and heads.
 

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I'm looking to wrap up my modding for a while and have a couple of options I'm looking at. Just to preface this, DRLs and different tires aren't really something I'm looking to spend money on. I've got a 2013 SRT and my current mods are Corsa Extreme, AirRaid CAI, and intune w/CMR tune from Johan. I'm considering doing a throttle body replacement, high flow catted mids, or any other ideas? I've got about $500 to spend. I've done some homework on both, and am at a loss. I have no plans of ever adding boost to the car, but may add a cam down the road. Thanks in advance for the input!
One of the things to remember that so many have found from us over the past 5 years and yet so many have forgotten to include is that.....fuel and lubricants make a huge difference! Without optimum on both you won't produce peak power!

Using ACES IV in the mix with what you have done to the car and then going through the car with:

QuantumBlue Engine oil and filter
QuantumBlue Transmission fluid and filter
QuantumBlue HP Tackified RED Differential fluid
QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant

These can make a big difference. Just the ACES IV, QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant and the QuantumBlue 12.5w40 HP Competition Formula in our 6.1L Hemi picked up 19 hp and 31 ft lbs of torque.

Adding the transmission fluid and the differential fluid picked up a total of 25 hp and 38 ftl bs of torque!

Also 3 tenths of a second, 2.5 mph and 2.5 mpg more going home.

ACES IV - $67.60
Engine oil with filter $102.08 - 7 quarts for the change, 1 qt left over during 10k miles drain interval.
Transmission and filter $142.58
Differential fluid $51.04
QB HP Gold Coolant $72.98

$436.28 to make a serious difference!:bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One of the things to remember that so many have found from us over the past 5 years and yet so many have forgotten to include is that.....fuel and lubricants make a huge difference! Without optimum on both you won't produce peak power!

Using ACES IV in the mix with what you have done to the car and then going through the car with:

QuantumBlue Engine oil and filter
QuantumBlue Transmission fluid and filter
QuantumBlue HP Tackified RED Differential fluid
QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant

These can make a big difference. Just the ACES IV, QuantumBlue HP Gold Coolant and the QuantumBlue 12.5w40 HP Competition Formula in our 6.1L Hemi picked up 19 hp and 31 ft lbs of torque.

Adding the transmission fluid and the differential fluid picked up a total of 25 hp and 38 ftl bs of torque!

Also 3 tenths of a second, 2.5 mph and 2.5 mpg more going home.

ACES IV - $67.60
Engine oil with filter $102.08 - 7 quarts for the change, 1 qt left over during 10k miles drain interval.
Transmission and filter $142.58
Differential fluid $51.04
QB HP Gold Coolant $72.98

$436.28 to make a serious difference!:bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
Brian, thanks for chiming in. Honestly, I'm not ready to drop that much on fluids just yet. However, when my next oil change comes due I'll strongly consider. I realize you have other fluids available including the fuel additive, but like I said, I'm holding out until my next oil change before possibly using your fluids.

Throttle bodies are only recommended if you need to move exponentially greater amounts of air. Since you're not going to boost the car it's not necessary. If memory serves, the stock throttle body can move around 800 cfm. so it's not a restriction. You can go with high flow catted mids but the factory exhaust is so efficient that any gain you see will be minimal.

I would save the mod money for a cam or head upgrade since that will offer you the most bang for the buck. Even when you add those, more work on the intake or exhaust side shouldn't be required unless you really want to max the combination.

TLDR: I wouldn't spend money on catted mids or a throttle body. Save it for a cam and heads.
Thanks for the input, but it's not the money that's holding me back on the cams & heads part, it's the factory warranty that I'm not willing to risk. The odds of head/cam replacement causing an engine failure are much greater than some of these other bolt-ons. I realize there's something to be said about making sure someone tunes the car properly, but once that's up or I get brave, I'll go that route.

I'm leaning towards the Magnaflow High Flow Mids (P/N 16420) as I've seen some claims of some gains and have also heard that the cats on these cars are the most restrictive part of the system.

Any other opinions?
 

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If you were set on high flow mids or a throttle body, I would say that the mids are a better choice since they'll open up any final restrictions in the exhaust that will work well when you do the cam and heads.

I can understand your apprehension about wanting to wait for the cam and head install until the warranty runs out. As far as the fluids, well those really do speak for themselves. Brian makes some amazing stuff and if he's picking power up on the dyno then his products are slippery enough to reduce rotating drag. You may want to do them one at a time and see for yourself but they offer some pretty amazing protection against wear.

Good luck!
 

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I unfortunately wasted money on a larger TB. I think your best bet is to set the money aside until you have enough for headers, cam, etc...It can be difficult when you have "some" money burning a hole in your pocket, yet a supercharger seems so far away...
 

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If you are possibly getting a Cam I would hold off on the mids. You would want Longtubes with the Cam to get max gains. There was a 2013 Challenger SRT auto that just got Borla LT's installed right before my install last month that picked up 30+rwhp. His ride was stock other than a CAI and tune. IMO you will not be able to feel the difference in power by just adding mids to the SRT with the mods you have.
 

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Brian, thanks for chiming in. Honestly, I'm not ready to drop that much on fluids just yet. However, when my next oil change comes due I'll strongly consider. I realize you have other fluids available including the fuel additive, but like I said, I'm holding out until my next oil change before possibly using your fluids.
I get that. Just wanted to remind you that we got significant gains from just changing over all the fluids and introducing ACES IV. So when you are ready, give us a call and we can discuss how to work with what you have to gleen the most from it!:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I get that. Just wanted to remind you that we got significant gains from just changing over all the fluids and introducing ACES IV. So when you are ready, give us a call and we can discuss how to work with what you have to gleen the most from it!:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
Thanks for not pushing too hard :) I'm curious, but do you have the dyno sheets that show the gains? Is there a thread here that goes in to depth about the gains?
 

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Oh no not the test data from 2006 again! LOL

Something else you may consider seeing that you have the SRT with the Getrag is swaping out for the 3.92 differential unit. You would not need the whole setup just the head. Swaping out rear gears was the best mod to date for my ride. If interested there are even places that offer the 3.55 Getrag (BNFY, Eric). You would pay less than a grand for this mod if you do the work yourself. :beerchug:
 
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