Which is better to have? A 160° or the 180°? I know most have the 180° but would it be better to go 160°, or is there really not much difference?
Actually, unless you adjust the computer looking for 203 degrees, it would be better to keep it at the stock stat. Increasing combustion efficiency is going to net you much more power and torque than the 180 or 160 t stat.
What do think the t-stat is going to do for you?
Just keep the engine cooler. I plan on getting a diablo sport tuner and change all the presets. I plan to get the tuner and thermostat in the middle of Jan. Around the 10th or so.
Yes I know, I'm lazy. I've considered it. I usually go through my dad who is the track guy. He has a 170 t-stat in his viper and dislikes it. He was telling me it takes forever for the car to come up to temperature. If he didn't track the car he would go back to stock. He advised I not go with a 180 t-sat. I've considered getting one for the summer months and going back to stock during the winter.It takes a total of maybe 5 mins to change out.
You know I just gave him a call and apparently he got all goofy and drilled a bunch of small holes in the thermostat...wonder if that has anything to do with it. I am terrible with car stuff. I'm good with car lighting and basic knowledge of exhaust/headers etc. Other than that I'm too much of a priss I guess. My dad grew up in his dad's gas stations. My upbringing and working in the hospital has made me too white collar/pathetic these days, I've been trying to learn and do more stuff for myself!It doesn't take to car any longer to get to the specified temp. My car gets to 172 and stays there unless I'm dogging the car. The t stat doesn't hamper the warm up, it just stops the temp from going any higher than what you set so if kinda lost on how it slows down the warm up.
Haha I know man I've been trying. I'm so scared to break stuff! I'm not afraid to jab somebody with a needle the size of a garden hose but when it comes to the car I'm afraid of causing catastrophic damage by loosening a few bolts. My dad is the same way, he's our resident mechanic...I usually have him do all my car stuff and I'll help him to learn. Although at 23 years old I figure I should grow up a tad haha. I'm trying to figure out why my car is throwing P2096 and P0133 codes. I think I have an exhaust leak at the manifold...the new mids must not have bolted up tight enough.We all have to start somewhere bro, no big deal. It's all about getting your hands dirty and learning. I'm a grease monkey so I take sh!t apart for the hell of it and put it back together to learn how it works.
PM sent.Looking at the codes one is showing a lean condition from bank 1 and the second is a slow response from sensor 1 bank 1. Sounds like you may have a bad 02 sensor. Have you data logged lately to see if there is any knock? Shoot me a pm if you need some help figuring it out so we don't crap the guys thread which has been discussed over and over.
You have your answer. Drilling the T-stat essentially bypasses the ability for it to stop the coolant flow and maintain the rated temperature.He has a 170 t-stat in his viper and dislikes it. He was telling me it takes forever for the car to come up to temperature......You know I just gave him a call and apparently he got all goofy and drilled a bunch of small holes in the thermostat...wonder if that has anything to do with it.
A 170 deg and certainly a 160 deg T-stat will regularly create the P0128 CEL for low engine temperature. You can't program that out of the PCM. Don't go any lower than a 180 deg unit.