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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last friday march 21 2014 i went down to RaceLegal at Qualcomm Stadium for the 1/8th mile Drag races, and I was very pleased with the results of my new modifications. Now i did have 3/4 tank of gas when i got there and i did make many hot laps (not reccomended i know) and the track was absolutely not allowing my DRs to stick, nor anyone elses for that matter. My best timeslip was as follows:
RT-0.504 (0.500 being perfect)
60'-2.1 (never got good traction)
ET-8.62 at 83.5mph
I beat a stock 392 Challenger twice and kept up with a porsche. A camaro ZL1 got an 8.0 flat and wrecked me.. Hope that it wasnt stock lol.

If anyone also knows what the reason for 3 p0700 codes for the tranny could mean... Please let me know lol.
 

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P0700 means there's a stored code in the TCM. You need to go somewhere that can pull a code from the TCM. Clear it and see if it comes back. If it does, then go have it read. It's most likely due to hitting the rev-limiter. Do you have your shift points increased? If so, just move your rev-limiter in drive up a couple hundred more. I've gotten the same code at the track before and it's usually from a big burnout.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea i figured it had something to do with that. Thanks. Only thing is that i go into limp mode if i floor it, spinning my wheels down the road, and my rev limit is beyond 6100. 6100 seems to be the key, but i guess i will experiment more.
 

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Yea i figured it had something to do with that. Thanks. Only thing is that i go into limp mode if i floor it, spinning my wheels down the road, and my rev limit is beyond 6100. 6100 seems to be the key, but i guess i will experiment more.
Yeah, that setting is low. Put it up to 6500 in Drive. That will give you plenty of room. Going WOT and with shift points at 6000 I've seen it shift around 6100. This is probably why you are going into limp mode too. I'd raise them and see if it happens again.

EDIT: I think I read your post wrong the first time. So you have your shift points at 6100? And your rev limiter is up beyond that? Maybe try putting your shift points to 6000 and then setting the rev limiter to 6500. Those were the settings that I found to work. I see what you are saying, yes, the 6100 is probably what's doing it all. It's a tad too high. We seem to stop making power at about 5800, so 6000 is plenty. Then with the 6000 line the transmission will hopefully be shifted by about 6150.
 

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Very nice! With some traction you should be able to 60' in the 1.69 to 1.74 range and this will help you big time. Should put you ahead of the Camaro in the 7.8x to 7.9x at the 1/8.
Are you running the Mopar TCM?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
No but i think i will cz the transmission is a pain in The arse. Will that tcm alone fix my limp mode crud? Oh and i need to get a good technique to launch the 3500 stall, flooring it is way too much power that i lose traction immediately
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, that setting is low. Put it up to 6500 in Drive. That will give you plenty of room. Going WOT and with shift points at 6000 I've seen it shift around 6100. This is probably why you are going into limp mode too. I'd raise them and see if it happens again.

EDIT: I think I read your post wrong the first time. So you have your shift points at 6100? And your rev limiter is up beyond that? Maybe try putting your shift points to 6000 and then setting the rev limiter to 6500. Those were the settings that I found to work. I see what you are saying, yes, the 6100 is probably what's doing it all. It's a tad too high. We seem to stop making power at about 5800, so 6000 is plenty. Then with the 6000 line the transmission will hopefully be shifted by about 6150.
My shift point is 5800 and my rev limit is 6100. With the stock 5800 shift point, Stu and I noticed that when the rev limit is any higher than 6100, and i fully depress the throttle and burn out or spin the tires, i go limp.
So heres my question to you..you think tht if i set my rev limit to 6500 amd shoft point to 6000 that my car will shift better on the track and i will avoid limp mode?
 

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Why are you still running stock shift points anyways with those mods? I run 6200 on my eagle and 6500 rev limiter. Runs like a raped ape! If my stock valve train will hold yours definetly will. Try upping the shift points and go up by 300 on the rev limiter. The code your see will also be thrown by holding the brake and gas at the same time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So i just set it to 6000shift and 6400 revlimit. I will test it out and LYK
 

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How are you able to select a 6000k shift point? My trinity only gives me the option for stock , 6200, and 6400. 6000 would be better for me as well, 6200 is right on the verge of valve float on stock eagle heads.
 

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That must be only onthe Trinity. I use the inTune and it has 6k shift points and I know it was on the Predator as well. That's strange that they only have 6200 on the Trinity.
 

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Maybe I need to check and see if there is an update. Haven't checked since the intunes have been released. She pulls all the way to 6200 and its been set that way for 2 years now. I guess either way its not really gonna matter. If it was gonna break it would have broke already.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I only have stock, 6000, 6400 shift points. I also have an intune for 06-10 cars that has been fully updated
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh heres another thing to add to the thread. After i got my mods done. I put the stock TC in my trunk, not thinkin the fluid was still in it and it completely drained out all over my trunk, all over my battery and filled up under my spare tire. Talk about stench too. Anyway My rear lights are actin nutty since then. I did soak up as much as possible, but i think my circuitry is being affected by the TC fluid. One of the rear left inside tail lights wont turn on when i hit the brakes and my rear right side white reverse lights wont turn on when i reverse. Also i noticed the electric in the car is actin surgy, which is how i noticed to check the battery and found the spill !!! Is there a splution to this? The battery is 3 months old. Poor me :(
 

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That's SUCKS! Try cleaning the battery post. As for the bulbs that aren't working, get a tester and stick inside the socket and see if they are getting power. It could just be a coincidence and the bulbs are bad. Do that before you dig any deeper and a simple test light is all you need.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
they are 2 months new oem tail lights and they worked fine before the spill. I will try cleaning the battery better. how can I rid of the raunchy scent? Should I buy 100 trees and line the trunk with em LOL
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It was the bulbs!! Musta surged when oil spilled they were fried! I fixed it for 10 bux woohooo THANKS BRO
 

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Lmao
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here are additional questions...Will my Inertia Premium Big Valve Heads be compatible with the 6.1 Intake Manifold? What additional parts will I need to completely install this piece, and Will I gain more up top for realz???What kinda gains will I get from the 6.1 intake manifold over my 2006 stock intake manifold. I don't want to jeopardize my low end too much, as this cam definitely increased my low end performance handsomely.
 

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Call stu and ask if the hands are port matched to the 6.1. If not you will need adapters, intake, rails and injectors, Pcv, map sensor, gaskets, and manifold bolts. One of the best mods I've done and probably the reason my stock motor will pull up to 6200rpm.
 
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