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Dears,
My car is dodge charger R/T 2013, I just have a problem when I want to stop on a traffic light or STOP signs the RPM dropped from 750 to 500.
Any support, please.
 

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How is this an issue. It's idle. Unless our throwing codes, have a huge vibration issue it would be considered normal. And thats 250 RPMs worth f idle fuel savings.
 

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Abed:
Welcome to the forum. How many miles on your Charger? Are you seeing any dash lights such as Check Engine or Electronic Throttle Control?

Don
 

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Abed:
Is your battery oem? You should have it load tested, and if it comes back less than 100%, replace it. A less than 100% battery can create a host of electrical issues in these cars with their extensive computer management systems.

Don
 

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Speaking of which, my car is on year 7 with the OEM battery. I keep wanting to replace it, but I like seeing how long they'll go. I got 9 years out of my motorcycle battery and it was never once on a tender. I live in the Northeast too.
 

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To the OP, just my .02. You said you're at 83k miles I believe. It may not be "normal" in your eyes, but a drop of 250 rpms and that's the only thing you notice, it may not be anything at all. I've come to realize that cars behave in different ways as they age. Something that may have seemed like an issue early on may not be anymore.
 

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@FlyersHockey:
Like you, I like to get as much value out of a given item as I can. I have seen batteries last 10 years, and also had batteries go "bad" as in not passing the load test spec in a matter of months. IMO, ruling the battery out early on helps to keep all of us from chasing our tails over something simple. I have seen many FCA product owners throw hundreds of dollars at sensors, tune ups, etc, only to find that their failing/aged battery was the culprit.

Abed:
The plug change spec on your '13 is 30K miles. Have they been replaced yet? You should be on your 2nd if not 3rd set of plugs at 83K.

Don
 

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I agree, battery issues cause a lot of annoying problems, and is often one of the first things to cause issues.

I've had brand new batteries, taken them home, and 2 days later be dead, return it and see that the battery was defective.
 

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2014 Charger R/T, ~140K km , OEM battery passing the test in maintenance.
Sometimes - once or twice per month, during hot summer time - July, August - experience the same.
It drops to be near 550 RPM on full stop in idle. Asked dealer, their reply was "If no light neither car starts shaking - it should be fine".
So again, not always, but seen this.
 

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So, the described condition does not present on a regular basis then? Is there any other repair/trouble history you can share with us? Batteries don't like heat, and they darned sure don't like the cold. If it was my car, before I spent a bunch of money with other remedies, I would replace that 5+ year old battery just because. If yours is an early build '14 like mine, (09/13), your battery might be over 6 years. You can always hang onto it for a spare.

Don
 

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So, the described condition does not present on a regular basis then? Is there any other repair/trouble history you can share with us? Batteries don't like heat, and they darned sure don't like the cold. If it was my car, before I spent a bunch of money with other remedies, I would replace that 5+ year old battery just because. If yours is an early build '14 like mine, (09/13), your battery might be over 6 years. You can always hang onto it for a spare.

Don
Mine came from factory during Sept 2014.
First I noticed this in one of the hot summer 1.5 or 2.5 years back. As I said, was surprised and worried.
Checked this forum and haven't found any thread for this, hence asked dealer. After few days, this disappeared.
Now, as I learned, no cars are the same. I replaced the plugs on 75K km, but still with OEM battery. Yes, it seems to be the time to have it replaced, but I do not notice any failures related to it, and will do the replacement, when the battery will be "done".
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Abed:
The plug change spec on your '13 is 30K miles. Have they been replaced yet? You should be on your 2nd if not 3rd set of plugs at 83K.


Hi Guys,
thank you all for your reply...

For the plugs, I just changed them before 12K mile, for the plugs cables "Coils" I never change them.
My battery has been replaced before 2 months.
Also, I went yesterday to the FCA dealer to check the issue they said that we need to clean the throttle and re-programming the car but I reject cuz I have a backup for the car software and I tried to install it and increase the RPM also with Diablo device with no gain :)
 

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My 2012 R/T will drop to the 500 RPM idle range sometimes at a stoplight. Most of the time it's in the 700 RPM range. No specific pattern to it ... it just does it for no apparent reason. I have a custom tune but I have been tempted to increase the idle with the DiabloSport. But as soon as I think about raising the idle ... the idle behavior is back to it's normal 700+ RPM range. So I have just left the settings alone and ignore the 500+ RPM idle when it occurs.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My 2012 R/T will drop to the 500 RPM idle range sometimes at a stoplight. Most of the time it's in the 700 RPM range. No specific pattern to it ... it just does it for no apparent reason. I have a custom tune but I have been tempted to increase the idle with the DiabloSport. But as soon as I think about raising the idle ... the idle behavior is back to it's normal 700+ RPM range. So I have just left the settings alone and ignore the 500+ RPM idle when it occurs.
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Aha, for me I just raise the RPM up to 800 then it happens again it dropped from 800 to 500 so now I feel it hard because the range is wider 300 rpm!!
 

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Some of the variation in idle speed can be down to temp and engine load (ac on, etc). When it's cold out the engine idles faster. If the AC is on the engine idles faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Some of the variation in idle speed can be down to temp and engine load (ac on, etc). When it's cold out the engine idles faster. If the AC is on the engine idles faster.
Yes, my friend, I understand this but I've used the car for 5 years on all seasons without this issue.
 

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I have no idea how the idle circuit works on a Hemi. But I had an old Camry that developed an erratic idle. I cleaned the throttle body & the Idle Air Control Valve & this fixed the problem. It took a few cleanings especially of the IAC valve but it idled like new. I sprayed some Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner into the IAC.

Looking through an older downloaded LX manual there is reference to a Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. Unfortunately there are no pictures or diagrams showing where it's located.

Look around & see if you can find this part & maybe cleaning it will fix things.
 

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Hemi is throttle-by-wire. The IAC motor is inside the throttle body assembly for earlier models. Later models have an electronic throttle control (ETC) motor inside the throttle body assembly. I don't know if the IAC and ETC are different or they're the same component with just a name change. Either way, it's the PCM that regulates idle speed.
.
 

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To keep this going, and to hopefully ease your anxiety even more. It's 39 degrees right now, and as I was taking my kid to school, at stop lights I was idling at about 600 rpms.
 
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