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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone on here installed the cross drilled and slotted rotors on your charger? If so, did you notice a big difference? Also, what kind did you go with??
 

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one out of two

Well at 500 miles i lost a booster , while braking hard into a turn , and i warped my stock rotors , I,ve since replaced both the rotors and pads all around with powerslot, and EBC red stuff, and have been very happy since, better stopping power all around, hope this helps:cool:
 

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Cross Drilled rotors / Slotted rotors are not going to make a "stopping" performance difference...

The main thing you will see from SLOTTED or DRILLED rotors is less rotor glazing.

You will experience less "BRAKE FADE" from aero cooled / vented rotors since these will help dissipate heat better and keep the brakes operating at a more optimal temperature.

Some DRILLED and or SLOTTED rotors are not as well vented than a black rotor... Usually SLOTTED and or DIMPLED rotors have better venting than Drilled...

Drilled tend to crack under high heat around the drill holes... They are better for less aggressive daily driving, not so much for track use... Also, it is possible for small rocks to get stuck in the drill holes and cause noise...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I just did my brakes a few months ago and they are already squeaking again. But there is plenty of meat left on the pads.
 

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Well I just did my brakes a few months ago and they are already squeaking again. But there is plenty of meat left on the pads.


If the surface of the rotor looks glassy / shiny... then your rotors are glazed...

Take some fine grit sand paper and sand down the surface of the rotors as well as the pads, to get rid of the glaze...

and don't ride your brakes so much...

That includes pressing them lightly while slowing down slowly... thats bad for your brakes...
 

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what is the service notice from Dodge say about the breakes? does this fall under the warranty if car is under 30,000?
 

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DodgeDude brings up an excellent point. There is this stuff that looks like red glue in a small bottle and you apply it to the backs of the pads that touch something on the caliper, whether it be the pistons or the other side of the caliper. Alot of squeaking can result from the pad jittering around inside the caliper if the pad is not completely tight. This 'glue' essenitally locks the pad in a more definite place to get rid of this jittering and thus less squeaking. Give that a try and see how it goes.

Also, I havent looked at Charger brakes yet so I dont know if there are caliper slides (some cars dont seem to have them. However, it is a must that these are well-greased though!

Let us know how it works out for ya....

-Pat
 

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DodgeDude brings up an excellent point. There is this stuff that looks like red glue in a small bottle and you apply it to the backs of the pads that touch something on the caliper, whether it be the pistons or the other side of the caliper. Alot of squeaking can result from the pad jittering around inside the caliper if the pad is not completely tight. This 'glue' essenitally locks the pad in a more definite place to get rid of this jittering and thus less squeaking. Give that a try and see how it goes.

Also, I havent looked at Charger brakes yet so I dont know if there are caliper slides (some cars dont seem to have them. However, it is a must that these are well-greased though!

Let us know how it works out for ya....

-Pat
Anti-squeal grease, or compound. I always use 'copper-grease', or copper-slip' on ALL my brake pads in the UK when replacing. These pads should NEVER be fitted dry - the factory anti-squeal material on the pads in not effective. Seems to me the friction materials used on the Charger pads (R/T etc) are prone to creating vibration. The 'uprated' Daytona pads are better and were the fix for issues on the normal R/T's at the dealers.
 

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12000mi

i took her in a few weeks ago for the sequel and a grove in the rotor i got no where he told me if i had brought it in before 12000mi he would have changed everything but at 25000 no go
 

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yeah brakes and a few other things are covered under a separate warranty than your standard 3 yr, 36k warranty. Why? I dont know and its kinda bogus to me, but I guess everyone is probably gonna wear out pads in 36k miles so the dealer would be pretty much doing a free brake job on every car they sold, thats probably why. I just had mine in there and since it was still under the 1-yr, 12k warranty they put new front rotors on, no questions asked. Ive been happy since (knock on wood....).

-Pat
 
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