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Discussion Starter #1
Well today after some spirited driving I notice my car shaking when applying the brakes. It has done this a few times recently after some WOT acceleration from a standing start. Kinda figured it was the rotors getting to hot. Im not that hard on my car at all in general. So after only 19k im looking at needing new rear rotors. Probably need slotted ones due to the damn traction control kickin in when lighting them up. To much heat for factory ones handel. Probably need brake pads also. Wish we had the override button for the TCS like in the old days to avoid this kind of an issue.

Dodge should have envision this with these rear drive high HP cars. Oh well. Any suggestions on good rotors for the rear.
 

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You should have a TC off button below the radio. Stability control is the breaking of individual wheels to correct a sideways slide. I imagine there is a fuse somewhere that can be pulled to prevent stability control working.


-Mitch
2014 SXT Plus AWD w/ Sport Appearance Package
 

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I have a 2008 SRT8 with Brembo brakes and slotted rotors. I have had to replace my front rotors about every 25,000 miles due to "warping". I have never taking my car to the track and am not too hard on the car in daily driving . I don't think the traction control has anything to do with it, I think it's a combination of a heavy car and mediocre rotors. I think it is probably your front rotors that are causing the car to shake. Replacing the front rotors on my car fixed the problem every time of the car shuddering or shaking during braking. Good luck with your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mitch, traction control kicks in when then wheels brake loose to slow the spin of the wheel. Stability control is on a gyro and try's to correct your (stability) when it senses the car is losing control. The button on the center stack is to turn off stability control but traction control remain on. What I'm saying is that when I light up the rear, the traction control kicks in and try's to stop the wheels from spinning but with the HP it can't. Rotors get really hot and they warp.

Front rotors are fine. Pulse is coming from the rear after I hammer on her. It does settle down after they cool. Brembo in the rear may be the way to go. Very good rotors.

Thanks
 

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And traction control should be cutting throttle too. So your engine isn't trying to spin through the braking. That's the idea of traction control, to help those with a heavy foot.

I think better rotor/ pads are worth the investment on these cars. Keep in mind it's 4k+ pounds. Think about how hard minivans are on their brakes.


-Mitch
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Discussion Starter #7
Lol. I agree that it suppose to cut throttle but for some reason that never happens on my RT that I've noticed.

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I would test out your TC a little more and maybe do some research. If TC is not cutting throttle sand actually arresting the spin, I would make a warrant claim.


-Mitch
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Discussion Starter #9
I would test out your TC a little more and maybe do some research. If TC is not cutting throttle sand actually arresting the spin, I would make a warrant claim.


-Mitch
2014 SXT Plus AWD w/ Sport Appearance Package
Mitch, Now I understand where your coming from and the confusion. On the 2011 model year Chargers the button your referring to in the video only turns off stability control. They must have changed this on later models to include traction control. It will not turn of traction control on 2011s. In fact I was talking to my dealer service tech about this today. He didnt mention to me that it was now available on newer models. That's what you get when buying the first model year of a new design. Weird things like this. :beerchug:
 

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How do you all warp your rotors so badly? I've done multiple hard slow downs from 120mph+ speed runs and my rotors are still in pretty good shape (OEM Dodge). The key is not to ride the brake, but jab it hard, quickly and let off... Don't let them get super hot for an extended period of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im learning more and more as I dig into this. Apparently if I would have purchase the road and track pack with my RT it would have offered the disabling option according to other threads. There is also a few comments about pulling the TC/abs/ESC fuze. Crazy that its not just a standard thing on these cars. I also think that the 2011 AWD have the ability to shut it off. But my RT Max without the road and track does not offer that option. More digging to do.
 

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Have you tried holding the button like in the video? Doesn't make any sense to disable stability control and not traction control. (Could be like you said "poor design" just doesn't make sense in any vehicle.

I would try pulling that fuse to make sure the ABS isn't acting up at all. That can create a "shuddering" feeling.


-Mitch
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Discussion Starter #13
How do you all warp your rotors so badly? I've done multiple hard slow downs from 120mph+ speed runs and my rotors are still in pretty good shape (OEM Dodge). The key is not to ride the brake, but jab it hard, quickly and let off... Don't let them get super hot for an extended period of time.
RT_HEMICHARGED, my fronts are just fine. Its my rears that get super heated I believe from lighting them up from cold start. I think the TC is trying to slow the spin. I only notice the brake shutter after these events. It does settle down after they have a chance to cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Have you tried holding the button like in the video? Doesn't make any sense to disable stability control and not traction control. (Could be like you said "poor design" just doesn't make sense in any vehicle.

I would try pulling that fuse to make sure the ABS isn't acting up at all. That can create a "shuddering" feeling.


-Mitch
2014 SXT Plus AWD w/ Sport Appearance Package
Yup. Tried this again tonight after looking at the video. No go. Only thing it did was lock out the button. Had to cycle the key to get it working again. I kinda remember trying that when I first got the car because I could not believe I could not turn it off. Oh well. Sucks. Yeah Ill try the fuse thing to see if that works.
 

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I tried to hold the butten ect., and finally gave up and pulled the fuse.I was at norwalk and could'nt get a good enough launch.Pulled the fuse and man did she go,only two problems. first she fried the tires like a locomotive on banna peels,second the revs were unrestricted-nice way to cook a motor if your not carefull!Put the fuse in and pulled the best time of the day after i learned what the car wanted and needed in the first 60 foot.I think the fuse was #15 or 17,just keept pulling till esp stayed off,I don't recomend this as a alternative,a little to backyard!


The STP and police package '11's are the only one I know of with a 3 mode ESc control. On, Partial off and full off....Push the esc button one and push it again for 15-20 seconds. your evic will read esc off and the will be a chime.

Those are from another forum so apparently yours does not have the option.


-Mitch
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There is a way, the mod is actually called No ESP.. It's a chip, that you splice it into the factory ESP.. I have it done on mine.. I can pull the paper work later today and get you the contact info...


That's another guy on there, might want to search for that... Sorry


-Mitch
2014 SXT Plus AWD w/ Sport Appearance Package
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Found this after search for answers because this is pissing me off now: Another reason to trade for an SRT8. Lol.

Poster from another site:


In an effort to try to figure this out some guys from chrysler and myself started messing around with the systems. We werent able to find anything different about the button itself to give it 3 modes (like the stp) for the TCS but we did notice what appeared to be different abs tcs esp software between the STP and R/T Max. We then tried to load the different STP software into my R/T max but the scan tool wont let us because of the VIN number apparently.

We thought for sure we could throw the different software in and boom we would have it working.

I know this does not help a lot but I thought I would throw out the info in case someone was thinking of trying the same thing.
I guess we are at the mercy of the tuning companies.
 

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You guys do know that the BLD system applies the brakes to the rear to get it to behave like a true LSD right? It applies the brake on the wheel that is spinning to get the power to transfer to the one that isn't.

Burnouts are notoriously hard on rear brakes with the BLD system.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My Diablo tuner can turn it off but only for one cycle of the key and its a pain in the ass. I have to hook it up, wait for the tuner to load, get into the programing menu, turn off TC, wait for it to disable the TC, then unhook. Then as soon as I shut the car off, TC turns back on. Its really only meant for track day.
 
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