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You'll need a shallow-mount 8" because of that bracket. Not too many around, I think Pioneer and ID. If you will be doing a replacement, make sure it is a dual voice coil.

To be honest, with good aftermarket 6x9's back there the 8" may not actually be contributing much. You might consider tapping those lines into a monoblock amp and running something simple. I have a sealed 10" Infinity that makes quite a bit of base when measured on an RTA. So even that as an alternative will make bass you can actually hear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You'll need a shallow-mount 8" because of that bracket. Not too many around, I think Pioneer and ID. If you will be doing a replacement, make sure it is a dual voice coil.

To be honest, with good aftermarket 6x9's back there the 8" may not actually be contributing much. You might consider tapping those lines into a monoblock amp and running something simple. I have a sealed 10" Infinity that makes quite a bit of base when measured on an RTA. So even that as an alternative will make bass you can actually hear.
Thanks bro.. I knew I could count on you but I went to a car and Stereo shop and they talking about 700 just to hook up what your talking about. Is tapping into the lines something I could do.
 

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Yes you can tap them easily. They are running open under the trunk silencer roof panel. You can tap them or get some metra adapters and run them to an amp that takes high/speaker level input. The battery in the trunk makes wiring easy. Infinity subs are around 60 bucks and a sealed 10" box will fit in the trunk easily. Some like to mount the amp on the box. I mounted mine to the seat back for easy access. Industrial Velcro will hold the box securely enough. Ported boxes are bigger and it might be hard to find one with the right dimensions. But it's might be worth it. Also, match your amp to the sub. Even 300W RMS can make a decent amount of bass.
 

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For the sub I use a JBL GTO3EZ (a 3-channel for rear deck and sub rated 500W RMS) and a GTO 504EZ for the front doors and dash. But I won't claim it is the best out there. They are good, have great features for crossover, wide sensitivity range, and perform better than rated on benchmark tests. I also got them for a great price by shopping around a lot. Look for an amp that is CEA-2006 compliant. That means it meets industry testing standards for rating power so you can trust the numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes you can tap them easily. They are running open under the trunk silencer roof panel. You can tap them or get some metra adapters and run them to an amp that takes high/speaker level input. The battery in the trunk makes wiring easy. Infinity subs are around 60 bucks and a sealed 10" box will fit in the trunk easily. Some like to mount the amp on the box. I mounted mine to the seat back for easy access. Industrial Velcro will hold the box securely enough. Ported boxes are bigger and it might be hard to find one with the right dimensions. But it's might be worth it. Also, match your amp to the sub. Even 300W RMS can make a decent amount of bass.
What kind of Metra adapters do I use. ...
 

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I think they would be these:
Metra 71-050 Speaker Wiring Adapters (for door and deck 6x9's)

But it is possible it would be these:
Metra 71-039C Speaker Wiring Adapters (For dash 3.5's)

These are from Crutchfield. They come with spades on the other side that you can fashion a connection with to run to an amp with high-level inputs.
 

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The stock speakers have plugs. The adapters goes from plug to wire with spade connector for hooking to an aftermarket speaker. You can splice or connect similar gauge wire to the spade ends and run that to the high-level inputs for the amp. Nice and neat.
 

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When I get a chance I can show you what I mean. Look up speakers for your car on the Crutchfield site and you will see the adapters. Take a look under the rear deck and see how the speakers are plugged in. Wait, didn't you already replace speakers? Then you know what the adapters are. How did you hook them up?
 

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You could have used these!
 

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