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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had a battery go dead or close to dead. When I tried to start it the remote start would beep the horn twice and fire up the fuel injector then when it tried to start the car would shut down without turning over the engine. I tried to jump start the car and it took about 10 turns of the key for it to fire up. After several attempts at charging and getting the battery to start working I bought a new one. Once replaced the car fired up great but I was left with 2 problems, the window auto feature stopped working and the remote stopped working. I got the windows working but am at a loss for the remote start. Here is the problem in more detail:

After driving the car or cycling through the key cycle, turn off, close door then hit the remote start button twice. Result is one horn beep and no fuel injector noise. The car starts with the key and runs like a champ, just drove it for 4 hours travelling for Christmas so there is no issues.

I have done the key dance and there are no codes, just had it inspected yesterday and it had no codes then either. Nothing is wrong with the car except that the remote start does not work.

My car is a 2008 Daytona with factory remote start.

Thanks in advance for help with this. it's in the 20's here in Prosper TX so I want to get this thing going ASAP!!
 

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Prosper huh? My Dad lives in Celina.

Can't help with the remote start, but the auto-window problem is simple to fix. Manually hold the window button for 4 - 5 seconds after the window is fully down/up on each of the auto-windows. It is a calibration issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Prosper huh? My Dad lives in Celina.

Can't help with the remote start, but the auto-window problem is simple to fix. Manually hold the window button for 4 - 5 seconds after the window is fully down/up on each of the auto-windows. It is a calibration issue.
As stated, got the windows working, just need help on the remote start issue. I have relatives in Prosper and McKinney and somewhere else up here in Northeast Texas.

BTW, Merry Christmas Everyone!
 

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I recently had a battery go dead or close to dead. When I tried to start it the remote start would beep the horn twice and fire up the fuel injector then when it tried to start the car would shut down without turning over the engine. I tried to jump start the car and it took about 10 turns of the key for it to fire up. After several attempts at charging and getting the battery to start working I bought a new one. Once replaced the car fired up great but I was left with 2 problems, the window auto feature stopped working and the remote stopped working. I got the windows working but am at a loss for the remote start. Here is the problem in more detail:

After driving the car or cycling through the key cycle, turn off, close door then hit the remote start button twice. Result is one horn beep and no fuel injector noise. The car starts with the key and runs like a champ, just drove it for 4 hours travelling for Christmas so there is no issues.

I have done the key dance and there are no codes, just had it inspected yesterday and it had no codes then either. Nothing is wrong with the car except that the remote start does not work.

My car is a 2008 Daytona with factory remote start.

Thanks in advance for help with this. it's in the 20's here in Prosper TX so I want to get this thing going ASAP!!
Cause for single chirp and no remote start is an inhibit situation, from doors left open to a popped hood. If none of these conditions are present usual cause is a hood switch issue, but where it happened after a battery replacement it might have got knocked in to service mode. In either case, a trip to the dealer is in order for proper diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cause for single chirp and no remote start is an inhibit situation, from doors left open to a popped hood. If none of these conditions are present usual cause is a hood switch issue, but where it happened after a battery replacement it might have got knocked in to service mode. In either case, a trip to the dealer is in order for proper diagnosis.
How would one get it out of service mode? I have driven to Dallas and back to Houston and didnt have any problems other than the remote start.
 

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How would one get it out of service mode? I have driven to Dallas and back to Houston and didnt have any problems other than the remote start.
Either done with the factory scan tool or after 50 miles of driving it re-activates. Easier to go to dealer and have them check it out, if it's just service mode they can re-activate it, if it's a hood switch DTC they can diagnose it and see if it is the actual cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Either done with the factory scan tool or after 50 miles of driving it re-activates. Easier to go to dealer and have them check it out, if it's just service mode they can re-activate it, if it's a hood switch DTC they can diagnose it and see if it is the actual cause.
I have driven it over 500 miles since I replaced the battery so that is not likely the problem at this point. There are no codes either. It worked before I changed the battery, I would press the button twice and hear the horn honk twice then the fuel injector kicked on and it would try to start. It would seem that since I didn't open the hood, the hood switch status would not have changed. It's possible but doesn't make sense.

I don't want to pay a dealer to fix this, there should be a logical explanation. If nothing else comes up on this forum or the problem doens't sort itself I guess I will try shorting the hood switch and see if that doesn't help. It is acting like a door or soemthing is open but there is no indication in the EVIC.
 

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Same thing is happening to my '08 Charger. I changed the batteries in both remotes and stil have a problem. Twice so far in the last month I couldn't get the doors to open so had to use the key which set off the alarm. Also have a problem opening the trunk and starting w/ the remote. Has anyone gone to the dealer for this yet?
 

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On my 2010 R/T I have narrowed the issue down to the hood switch. I am guessing the switch shorted and caused the dead battery issue in the first place. Looking at the switch it appears to be covered road salt even though it is at the top of the engine compartment. The switch was also stuck in the down position when I opened the hood until I pulled it up. I am picking up a replacement ($17.89) after work today and replacing it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the update, I haven't been in here for a while but still have the problem. The car sits for weeks at a time and starts right up when I use the key but no remote. I haven't even looked at the hood pin yet. I am probably going to have this in a dealer soon and am planning on having them check it out.
 

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The car starts every time I use the key in the ignition as well. However the remote start still does not work. I replaced the hood switch but still get a "no hood switch" error. I have a dealer appointment this Saturday.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The car starts every time I use the key in the ignition as well. However the remote start still does not work. I replaced the hood switch but still get a "no hood switch" error. I have a dealer appointment this Saturday.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
I don't have a "No hood switch" error, where is that?
 

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I have access to a Chrysler scan tool at work. There is a section under the TIPM called "remote start enable data". When I go to this section everything except the good switch are shown as good.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Is it possible the wiring is cut somewhere and the new switch and old are good? No switch is different than present, but open.
 

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Is it possible the wiring is cut somewhere and the new switch and old are good? No switch is different than present, but open.
I checked all the wiring back to the TIPM and it appeared to be okay. Also the hood switch is a "normal closed" switch meaning that when the hood is open the circuit is complete, and when the hood is closed the circuit is open. So I think if there were an issue where the wiring was cut or something it would just show an open connection meaning closed hood.

My battery was also dead this morning when I went to start the car. I am thinking that this has something to do with the Remote Start system or TIPM as all my issues started happening when the battery died for the first time this year.
 

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Update:

I took my car to the dealer and the reason the remote start was not working was because the hood switch was not programmed. My guess is that happened the first time the battery died because it was only at 2 Volts. After they reprogrammed the hoodswitch the remote start works great.

They also flashed new software onto my RER radio and said that was responsible for the occasional battery drain

All in all it cost $58
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So, my problem is fixed now. Apparently somehow during the battery dying and the battery being replaced the computer got screwed up and was showing the hood pin open even though it was closed. They reset the computer and everything works now. Cost me $99 but after a few years of that not working I am glad to pay.
 
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