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The Following covers the rebuilding of the rear shock assembly of the BC Racing Z-01 model for the 06-10 Dodge Charger. First you have to place an order for new shock cartridges from BC Racing and it takes 3-4 weeks to get them.
https://store.bcracing-na.com/shock-cartridge-dodge-chargercharger-srt-8-p4774.aspx
Once you have received the new units you can begin with this guide. I started to notice squeaking from the rear of the car and traced it to the shocks, a common issue when these units have failed. Level of Difficultly is
a 1-2 and can be accomplished by most. It will take about 2 hours to complete the task at hand carefully.
Tools you will need are 14-17MM open end or combo wrenches and sockets and 6” or longer extension in the drive size of your choice, 2mm and 6mm allen wrenchs and your BC Spanner wrenches, jack and jack stands. You also need some Anti-Seize compound to dress the threads of the shock.
Here is what you will get when you order replacements vs. the final assembly.

Lets start by removing the rear wheels and then take the BC Spanner wrench and break free the lock nut on the lower shock where it screws into the mount, then remove each shock assembly with a 15mm and 17mm wrench or socket to get the lower mount bolt out and a 16mm socket and 6” or longer extension in the drive of your choice for the top mount. If you have shock extenders carefully guide then out of the top mounting hole.

Once you have the units out, we’ll start with rebuilding them one at a time, this will allow you to get them back to the proper length by comparing the rebuilt one with the old one, top to bottom.

Start with the 2mm allen wrench and remove the extenders (if equipped) from the top of the unit, then take your 14mm open end for the adjuster assembly and a 17mm open end on the shock lock nut as a back–up if needed and unscrew the adjuster and set it aside. Try keeping the parts in order as they come off the shock to help in putting it back together.


After that you can decide to either remove the wire ring from the shaft or force the boot and dampener over it (I removed it) or remove the ring by gently pushing it off with your fingers, when you place it back on the shaft just work it down the shock rod vs. trying to push it back around the shaft. If it gets stretched just close it back up with a pair of pliers then install it. A new one comes on the new unit. Now assemble the top in order of removal. Next remove the top lock nut by placing a 6mm allen wrench in the top of the shock shaft and your 17mm OE wrench to remove the lock nut. There should be about 3/8” of threads showing out of the top of the lock nut, measure yours to make sure you get back to the same place on re-assembly. Once you have the lock nut off slide the top washer off then the top plate and then the bottom special washer which may be stuck on the ring it rests on and may need a little tap to get it to come off. It has a machined recess in it to ride on the ring.



Unscrew the bottom mount from the shock and clean out the threads and install some anti-seize on them in the area that the mount and lock nut will ride. Assemble the mount onto the new shock and using the other assembly align the bottom mount hole and the top plate edges to get back to the same length it was removed at, if you’re going to set-up a different length you can set the rebuilt unit to the length that you want then set the other one to that length when you finish with it.

Now prep to install the rebuilt units back onto the car by installing the extenders (if equipped) and setting the units to either the softest setting to ease installing them or the setting of our choice. :smile:
 

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Really good writeup on the process! I don't have a set of these but if I ever do, I know where to go to understand how it's done.

Thanks for taking the time to do this and share it with the community.
 
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