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I just posted this last night about the fun I had installing my V1:

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50946

over at lxforums there is a .doc file that you can download that has pretty pictures and everything. It took me about two hours because I am a [email protected]

for a knife I highly recommend an Xacto knife. Before cutting wires if you want to test voltages and stuff I suggest you use paperclips in the connector ports that go to the wire you are thinking of modifying. Use a REAL soldering iron.

Here is the lxforums link:


http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=25545
 

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I just did this for my Escort 8500 x50. I tapped into the wires in the A-pillar. I did not solder my wires together, instead I used wire taps to get power and ground. Also, with doing it in the A-pillar, there was more room to manuever. I pulled the roof console down before I chose to use the A-pillar for a tapping point. I found that there is not much room in the roof console to use the taps properly...just too tight. This might be why some recommend soldering the connections. Also, if you are using the Escort Direct Wire kit, you are going to end up with a LOT of extra wire, unless you shorten the wire and put the fuse back on further up on the wire. I left mine the full length, crimped the connectors, tapped into the power and ground, ran the wire up to the rear view mirror and then gathered the excess wire, wire tied it and stuffed it up under the headliner on the passenger side. Wire colors in the A-pillar are the same as the ones referred to in the document above. Took me about 20 minutes to install....including the time spent looking at how little room you have at the roof console.
 

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Sweet thats the write up I saw a while back. I think that I am going to wait until I switch cars, that looks a little too indepth.
It's really not all that bad. My biggest problem is that I was sweating like a pig and the first soldering iron I tried using blew chunks.

The suggestion of soldering the connections was just because solder is normally more reliable than some of the other mechanical connectors. And it does help with the room by soldering... You can really get the wires close to the original ones and get them to lay down pretty good.

Believe it or not there is more room in the headliner console than you think. The valentine1 actually uses a largish connection block that you fit up there.
 

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I wired mine using their direct wire and ran it down to the wires at the cigarette lighter. Goes on and off with the ignition switch.
 

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I wired mine using their direct wire and ran it down to the wires at the cigarette lighter. Goes on and off with the ignition switch.

How did you get to the Cig Lighter wires?
 

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The suggestion of soldering the connections was just because solder is normally more reliable than some of the other mechanical connectors.
Actually, my experience is the opposite. I used tap-in connectors in the "A" pillar, and they've held up just fine, but recently, when I hit a bump in the road, my RD loses power for ~1-2 seconds and then restarts. The soldered connection from the wire to the plug is apparently faulty.

Then again, maybe I just can't solder very well...
 

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How did you get to the Cig Lighter wires?
You have to pull off the bezel around the AC vents/radio/HVAC controls. It just snaps in. Then I pulled out the ashtray/heated seat controls they just snap in. You can get to the wires once you get the ash tray out.
 
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