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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, i've been searching through the piles of threads about the predator tuner and I thought it would be quickest to post up my questions and get some direct answers.

Today I installed my new Mopar cold-air intake to go with my Zoomers exhaust, and am about to put in the Jet 180º thermostat. Now, so far I HAVE been able to find the fan settings so i'm ok with that, but I need to know what other settings need to be/should be adjusted.

I keep reading something about shift firmness and changing the shift points... can someone explain to me what that's all about and what they should be changed to.

Is there anything else i'm forgetting?

Right now I have the 91 Octane CAI tune loaded, I haven't taken it for a drive yet because i'm still trying to wait for the coolant to be... well... cool.

Any help would be GREAT!!!

EDIT: Found the list of parameters that can be adjusted, I noticed it said the shift point on 6.1L is 6400RPM... is that the stock shift point? If so, what RPM should the car be set to shift at???
 

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There is no shift firmness setting for the SRT8. We get it from the factory.

As for other adjustments you can raise the shift points slightly and make sure you reset the TCM! I like to reset my TCM every few months. I definitely do it every time my Predator is hooked up.

The raised shift points are a personal choice and raising them will not make the car faster in the 1/4 mile unless you have some more serious mods. I raise mine since I autocross and the extra few RPM are good for holding it in a gear when going around the course.
 

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Don't raise the shift points and leave the stock fan settings unless you need cooler temps at the dragstrip. Get it dyno tuned too. The extra hp you have now (and after the tune) and the better shifting are the benefits you'll see everyday on the street.
 

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Don't raise the shift points and leave the stock fan settings unless you need cooler temps at the dragstrip. Get it dyno tuned too. The extra hp you have now (and after the tune) and the better shifting are the benefits you'll see everyday on the street.
I got mine dyno tuned at SVS, and they lower the fan settings by default. Bob just asked my what T-Stat I had installed and went off that.

And I still say the shift points is a personal choice. If you like to have a few extra hundred RPMs to hold in a corner when using the autostick, then go for it. As I said before, it will not make the car quicker in a straight line, but it can make it faster around an autocross course or twisty road. I race my car with the SCCA and I like my raised shift points! :driving:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEWWWWW!!!!!

Just got back in from testing it out! MAN, has this car ever woken up! Feels awesome!

I have a few questions though... First off, I raised the shift points and I definitely noticed a difference, i'm just not sure what exactly changed (i'm not sure what difference is part of the 91 Octane CAI tune and which was from the raised shift points).

When you raise shift points, that just makes the car shift at higher RPM correct? Does it change anything else?

Also, the gauge all the way to the right is our oil temperature right? Then you can go into your EVIC and it displays a digital temperature for something... what is this? It's not the same as your right gauge is it? (cause the digital readout doesn't match the gauge)

I went out and did a bunch of 0-60mph runs and was kinda hard on the car... but the needle in the gauge never rose above the 1/4 mark (which was between the 75ºC and 100ºC marks). I'm used to the needle rising up to about the middle point... isn't that where it normally goes??? I could be wrong...

Should I keep my raised shift points? What's the best way to know if the tstat is making a difference? (BTW, the reading in the EVIC for temperature of... whatever it is... was 215ºF or about 100ºF... what is that the temperature of?)

OH, by the way... how come when I finished with the install of the thermostat... I seem to have extra coolant left over??? I drove the pis$ out of the car hoping the level would drop, which it did a tad... but I still cant get all the coolant back in without going well over the "MAX" line.

Any suggestions?
 

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Glad to hear your car woke up! :rockon:
 

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I have a few questions though... First off, I raised the shift points and I definitely noticed a difference, i'm just not sure what exactly changed (i'm not sure what difference is part of the 91 Octane CAI tune and which was from the raised shift points).

When you raise shift points, that just makes the car shift at higher RPM correct? Does it change anything else?
The raised shift point only do that. Nothing else is changed.
Also, the gauge all the way to the right is our oil temperature right? Then you can go into your EVIC and it displays a digital temperature for something... what is this? It's not the same as your right gauge is it? (cause the digital readout doesn't match the gauge)

I went out and did a bunch of 0-60mph runs and was kinda hard on the car... but the needle in the gauge never rose above the 1/4 mark (which was between the 75ºC and 100ºC marks). I'm used to the needle rising up to about the middle point... isn't that where it normally goes??? I could be wrong...
What you are reading on that guage is water temperature.

Should I keep my raised shift points? What's the best way to know if the tstat is making a difference? (BTW, the reading in the EVIC for temperature of... whatever it is... was 215ºF or about 100ºF... what is that the temperature of?)
That is water temperature. I like to keep mine under 190 with my Jet 180 T-Stat and by adjusting the fan settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The raised shift point only do that. Nothing else is changed.


What you are reading on that guage is water temperature.



That is water temperature. I like to keep mine under 190 with my Jet 180 T-Stat and by adjusting the fan settings.
Now see... I have the Jet 180 tstat installed and I changed the fan settings as per this chart:

What's going on here... why would my water temp go to 215ºF with those settings?

Also, when am I affected by raised shift points... only when in autostick??? Or in "drive" too?

Any idea why I cant fit all the coolant back into the system?
 

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Now see... I have the Jet 180 tstat installed and I changed the fan settings as per this chart:

What's going on here... why would my water temp go to 215ºF with those settings?

Also, when am I affected by raised shift points... only when in autostick??? Or in "drive" too?
The reason you are running so hot is that Predator needs to have the fans come on sooner. The only thing the the t-stat does is open up at 180 degrees, nothing more. If you want it cooler you need to drop those fan setting slightly.

And the shift points change in both modes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The reason you are running so hot is that Predator needs to have the fans come on sooner. The only thing the the t-stat does is open up at 180 degrees, nothing more. If you want it cooler you need to drop those fan setting slightly.

And the shift points change in both modes.
Ah... soooo... are the temperatures in that chart I posted low enough or do you adjust your settings even lower????

...and again, what's with my EXTRA COOLANT!!!??? ARRRRRRGH! I understand that when the system is hot, everything is under pressure... and the coolant level was well below the "MAX" line. But when you click the lid and vent the pressure, the coolant level rises again... so how do I get the extra coolant back in there since every time I open the cap the level rises again!?!?!?!?!
 

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And I still say the shift points is a personal choice. If you like to have a few extra hundred RPMs to hold in a corner when using the autostick, then go for it. As I said before, it will not make the car quicker in a straight line, but it can make it faster around an autocross course or twisty road. I race my car with the SCCA and I like my raised shift points! :driving:
True. I would say it should make it quicker if in fact the hp keeps rising. But the gearing is such that a higher rpm shift into 3rd gear would be beneficial in a straight line.

But I also think it is among the most risky (and most easily reason to deny a warranty claim) due to the extra strain with higher than stock rpms.

Btw, any track times to report from Laguna Seca yet with your SRT-8?
 

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Btw, any track times to report from Laguna Seca yet with your SRT-8?
I don't track my car, I only autocross it. I don't want to risk my daily driver hitting a wall.
 

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I don't track my car, I only autocross it. I don't want to risk my daily driver hitting a wall.
Not too many walls at Thunderhill or Laguna.... ;)

How does your SRT-8 compare to others in it's class? Do you ever get into 3rd gear?
 

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Not too many walls at Thunderhill or Laguna.... ;)

How does your SRT-8 compare to others in it's class? Do you ever get into 3rd gear?

As for Laguna or Thunderhill I agree those are far more friendly courses than Sears Point. Buttonwillow is good too. Still I instructed for years and I have seen many a car totaled running on these safe tracks. Of course I've seen people die at Sears Point. :frown5:

I have never hit 2nd gear autocrossing. SCCA likes to run tight courses. Unfortunately I am not really competitive at all in my class. I am running against folks in Z/28s and Mustangs with flared fenders full race tires and heavily modified. Dedicated race cars. And I am there in my daily driver with the stock tires. I am a fairly good driver so sometimes I can get close to the leaders, but they would need to have a *really* bad weekend to let me win.

The other cars are 1,000+ lbs lighter, have equaly power (or around it), equal or better suspension, and giant race rubber. So you get the idea.

Plus the LX basically sucks at autocrossing, period. The car is just too big, heavy and cumbersome. People can try to tell you otherwise, but they are wrong. Even if you stripped a LX to lose weight it still couldn't be competitive due to the size and crappy visabilty due to the hood.

Autocrossing is best done in a car like a Miata. But I have fun anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Soooooooooooooo... I shouldn't keep the raised shift points then because it's no good for our motors?

How do most people on here set theirs? Do you only recommend raising shift points when @ the track?

Also, when the shift points are "raised" what RPM does the car shift at and what was the stock shift point?
 

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Raised shift points are fine for the 6.1's. It's the 5.7's that don't make any power past the stock shift points.

Stock shift point is somewhere between 5500 and 5800 rpm. Raised can be anywhere between 6000 and 6300, give or take.
 

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Raised shift points are fine for the 6.1's. It's the 5.7's that don't make any power past the stock shift points.

Stock shift point is somewhere between 5500 and 5800 rpm. Raised can be anywhere between 6000 and 6300, give or take.
I disagree regarding the RPMs on the 6.1s if that is what you're referring to - the shifts occur at redline which is 6400rpm, iirc. hp peak is at 6200rpm.

So IMO I would keep the 6.1 shift points where they are.
 

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I disagree regarding the RPMs on the 6.1s if that is what you're referring to - the shifts occur at redline which is 6400rpm, iirc. hp peak is at 6200rpm.

So IMO I would keep the 6.1 shift points where they are.
That's interesting, because before the Predator mine always shifted before 6000. And I very much doubt mine is the only one.
 

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I think the raised shift point is supposed to raise it 250rpms, but I could be wrong. It is a pretty low number on the SRT8s and not really a big deal either way. Just test it both ways and decide for yourself.
 
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