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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright so I was running at the track for a while today and on the way home another R/T pulls up beside me on the highway and we race, well about 30 seconds after we race the oil light comes on so i throw it in neutral. Right after i shift, it dies, so i coast to the nearest parking lot. Now it wouldn't turn over, after letting it cool for 10 minutes i was able to start it and she was squeaking and then started knocking a little bit and had a very uneven idle. So I drive it home and after letting it cool for around an hour it starts and runs no problem, but still knocks a little when i rev.
The engine temp never went up above normal. The oil is perfectly clean.
85k miles, I'm using 5w-20 synthetic oil and lucas, always ran perfect before this, I'm scared. Do I just need to switch back to a thicker non synthetic oil, or am I screwed?
 

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Alright so I was running at the track for a while today and on the way home another R/T pulls up beside me on the highway and we race, well about 30 seconds after we race the oil light comes on so i throw it in neutral. Right after i shift, it dies, so i coast to the nearest parking lot. Now it wouldn't turn over, after letting it cool for 10 minutes i was able to start it and she was squeaking and then started knocking a little bit and had a very uneven idle. So I drive it home and after letting it cool for around an hour it starts and runs no problem, but still knocks a little when i rev.
The engine temp never went up above normal. The oil is perfectly clean.
85k miles, I'm using 5w-20 synthetic oil and lucas, always ran perfect before this, I'm scared. Do I just need to switch back to a thicker non synthetic oil, or am I screwed?
Hate to hear that sound.............it may be about to die on you.

Are you sure the squeal/squal came from inside the engine? I've never heard it from a Dodge engine, but I'm sure they all sound the same.

Unfortunately, it sounds like she spun a main bearing and/or rod bearing. If the oil pressure light goes out when you rev it you probably spun a rod bearing. If the oil light never goes out you probably spun a main bearing.

Going to a heavier weight oil before this happened may have prevented it from happening, but once it happens no amount of 50W is going to help you. The problem is only going to get worse. I would not drive it without dropping the oil pan and examining all the rod bearings.

The price to fix it will be much lower if you don't drive it. Driving it could result in catostrophic failure and the engine will have to be replaced instead of rebuilt.

Here's a link to a MOPAR crate engine (short block) for a good proce......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

If you have access to the tools to do the swap yourself you can be back up and running pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply, the oil light went off after i let it sit for a bit, oh and it threw one code, P1521: wrong engine oil
 
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