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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everybody



So I have had my 2007 D. charger for almost 3 years now I have never encountered this problem… Heres a quick recap of prior to the issue- I was driving my family like normal then suddenly my AC starts turning off and on, later my radio turns out.. I parked the car, turned it off and when I tried turning it on it was a no go.. I figured it was the battery or the alternator and surely enough it was the alternator…… I went out and bought a used one for 60 bucks but the connection was not right.. Heres where it gets weird… I took the connector from the old alternator (mine-defective) and replaced it with the one that was used thinking it would work.. tried it and no luck…. So I ended up buying a new one for 160 from autozone and when I replaced the alternator my car started acting up badly..

1.the car would need a jump to start

2. the engine kept acting as if it had too much air flow or not enough.

3. my RED LIGHTING BOLT light kept coming on and flashing

4. my yellow car light (ESP?, ESB?) light would stay on as well.
5. The car is not driveable what so ever. It throws codes like 2017 and sometimes like a 0513 vode?
6. The car smells bad from exhaust and it still shakes very badly.
7. Brake is super hard to press on and pressing on the acceleration does nothing, not eve rev..



So I tired a new MAP sensor and no go… I tried cleaning the PCM-MAP-and TP sensor and no go still… its weird how all this happened from an alternator swap???

I did replace the battery but still no good.. I even tried some ideas I read on different forums like touching the neg and positive battery connectors to restart ECM but no luck.. I tried pulling the fuse 11 from the back and front fuse box and still nothing… ive been hearing that it could be a PCM issue? Is this true. Someone with the same issue please help..

[email protected]:confused:
 

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Sounds like you have a mess on your hands.I was told by the dealer that you cannot cut any wiring on wiring harness.I had a accident with my car,and the wire on the alternator broke,and they had to replace the whole wiring harness,hope thats not your case.Here are what the codes mean and what to look for:
PO513=
Possible causes
- Faulty immobilizer key
- Poor electrical connection for immobilizer circuit components
- Faulty immobilizer control unit
- Faulty immobilizer key antenna
P2017 Dodge - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1

Manifold flow valve harness is open or shorted
- Manifold flow valve circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Manifold flow valve
- Intake manifold
- Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
If it is the PCM,its suppose to have a 8yr/80K warranty
Parts Covered for 8 years or 80,000 miles
If your vehicle has one of the following parts, this
Federal Emission Warranty covers that part for a
period of 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs
first, calculated from the start of the Basic Limited
Warranty as set forth in Section 2.1(E). The covered
parts are:
• catalytic converter; and
• powertrain control module.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the help and response. I know we didn't cut any wires. We simply swaped this part out (picture)... but even then the car would start fine no issues but it would not charge. .. so then I went out and bought a new alternator and from there the issue arised. Now one thing after talking to my buddy who helped swap the alternator out is that he did have a little spark while installing the alternator. It wasnt a huge spark but there was a little one because he forgot to take off the connection of the battery. . Would that do anything??? He thinks it wouldnt but its worth sharing just incase. .
 

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Thank you for the help and response. I know we didn't cut any wires. We simply swaped this part out (picture)... but even then the car would start fine no issues but it would not charge. .. so then I went out and bought a new alternator and from there the issue arised. Now one thing after talking to my buddy who helped swap the alternator out is that he did have a little spark while installing the alternator. It wasnt a huge spark but there was a little one because he forgot to take off the connection of the battery. . Would that do anything??? He thinks it wouldnt but its worth sharing just incase. .
The electrical system on these cars are very sensitive.It wouldnt take much to short out the PCM,Just changing a alternator shouldnt give you the problem your having so something else happened to cause your problem.I would double check and make sure you have the right alternator,and make sure the wires are on the right post and they are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
okay i will give that a try and see if that has anything to do with it... what throws me off to is that the "RED LIGHTING BOLT" is flashing as soon as i start the car and the yellow traction control light is also on but not flashing. the car is acting as if there is not enough air or too much air.. i have a mechanic coming later today to give it a look to see whats up... the first mechanic right away said it was the PCM but from research i did i read that more than 50 % of mechanics right away blame the PCM and then costumers turn around and return them after realizing that its not the problem... i will keep you posted on any changes later today or tomorrow at the latest.
 

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okay i will give that a try and see if that has anything to do with it... what throws me off to is that the "RED LIGHTING BOLT" is flashing as soon as i start the car and the yellow traction control light is also on but not flashing. the car is acting as if there is not enough air or too much air.. i have a mechanic coming later today to give it a look to see whats up... the first mechanic right away said it was the PCM but from research i did i read that more than 50 % of mechanics right away blame the PCM and then costumers turn around and return them after realizing that its not the problem... i will keep you posted on any changes later today or tomorrow at the latest.
Double check and make sure when the mechanic replaced the alternator,he didnt knock off a vacuum hose/line.or a harness didnt get unplugged,it almost sounds like a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
okay i will have look at that.. i didn't even think twice about a vacuum leak. i will lift it up and have him look around. thank you again for the advice and will keep everyone posted on this issue
 

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Based on the symptoms listed this sounds like a very similar issue I had last year when a piece of my intake air temp sensor broke off and got stuck in my throttle body (no idea how that even happens). Might be worth it to take the TB off and take a peek inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the response.. I did look at that and nothing inside of it.. what the mechanic is saying that when you jump start a dead battery it can send a wave of electric volts or so to the engine and it may throw off the throttle computer... we are still looking for ways to re calibrate it. Working on it now so ill keep you guys posted... if not then we may need to buy new throttle body entirely
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
kay here's an update.. the mechanic thought it was the throttle body giving me the problems, being that my car was given a jump start with a dead battery during the alternator issue.. i did buy a new throttle body and that was not the solution. i replaced it with the same symptoms still coming up ( red lightning bolt light flashing, traction light on, Gas pedal not responsive and Break is very stiff to where its hard to press down, car not drivable).. so now I'm back to square one and the next possibility would be to fix the PCM. heres a questions to all...

IF I BUY A USED PCM FROM THE JUNK YARD, WILL THAT WORK AS LONG AS I GET THAT NEW TO ME PART FLASHED OVER TO MY CAR? your feedback is greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
 

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kay here's an update.. the mechanic thought it was the throttle body giving me the problems, being that my car was given a jump start with a dead battery during the alternator issue.. i did buy a new throttle body and that was not the solution. i replaced it with the same symptoms still coming up ( red lightning bolt light flashing, traction light on, Gas pedal not responsive and Break is very stiff to where its hard to press down, car not drivable).. so now I'm back to square one and the next possibility would be to fix the PCM. heres a questions to all...

IF I BUY A USED PCM FROM THE JUNK YARD, WILL THAT WORK AS LONG AS I GET THAT NEW TO ME PART FLASHED OVER TO MY CAR? your feedback is greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
Make sure you get a PCM from same year and close to the same options you have, same engine,get it flashed for your car and it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Will it work if its coming from a chrysler, magnum, anything within the same family but same size engine? It should run right but then it should be flashed?
 

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Will it work if its coming from a chrysler, magnum, anything within the same family but same size engine? It should run right but then it should be flashed?
That should be OK,but as far a running till you get it flashed,I cant say if it will run,some on here had some thaty ran,some that didnt
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello all! i have SOME REALLY GOOD NEWS!!!

so i found out with the issue was and it had NOTHING TO DO WITH THE PCM OR THE TBS.

solution: There was a hose not connected correctly below the intake manifold...???.......From a simple Alternator fix the hose came off? how is that possible?? but the mechanic was able to connect it correctly, new clamp and good to go! So for those of you who were wondering why this was happening, check the hose underneath the intake manifold! thanks everyone for helping
 

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Hello all! i have SOME REALLY GOOD NEWS!!!

so i found out with the issue was and it had NOTHING TO DO WITH THE PCM OR THE TBS.

solution: There was a hose not connected correctly below the intake manifold...???.......From a simple Alternator fix the hose came off? how is that possible?? but the mechanic was able to connect it correctly, new clamp and good to go! So for those of you who were wondering why this was happening, check the hose underneath the intake manifold! thanks everyone for helping
Glad you found your problem,and letting us know the fix.This is what I said on Post#6- Double check and make sure when the mechanic replaced the alternator,he didnt knock off a vacuum hose/line.or a harness didnt get unplugged,it almost sounds like a vacuum leak.
 
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