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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So after spending too much time tracking things done, verifying reposting and re reading....here is a complete list of what you will need for an 08 an older R/T car to put in the 09 Challenger getrag, axles, hubs and coupler

3.06 Getrag #5038293AG
3.73 Getrag #4593854AH
3.92 Getrag #5038237AH
Mounting Bolt #6509315AA
LH Axle Shaft #4578733AC
RH Axle Shaft #4578732AD
Axle Shaft Nuts #6506263AA
Axle Hubs #4779572AB (you need two of these)
392 Getrag Coupler #68090505AA
LS Additive #431060AB
1QT of your favorite 75w90, unless yours is shipped like mine and all spilled out. Takes 1.7 quarts to fill


So there you have it!!

Also a six/twelve/eighteen/tweentyfour or 30 pack of your favorite beer to celebrate the install!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Post fixed and edited! Here is a little info on installing

Install text from Erik (Hemi31’s) excellent axle swap thread.
you will also need a Torx Socket set for your hubs socket is either a E12 or E16



You'll also need a new pinion bolt. M10 1.50 pitch 150mm long. This is the above part Mounting Bolt #6509315AA

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a558/=1ne1hz

If you’re going to use an 09 driveshaft, you’ll also need 3 M12 1.25 pitch nuts (I used nylocks). The new driveshaft uses different bolts to attach to the diff. You may also be able take out the new bolts and just re-use the T60 bolts, but we didn't try.

The new diff uses 75-90 gear oil, NOT the 75-140 used on the 215mm SRT diff. The Getrag diff comes filled, but you’ll need a liter to top it off.

Tools:
Strong 3/8" Ratchet and breaker bar
21mm short socket
18mm short socket
15 mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
1 1/4" socket and 1/2" ratchet for axle nut
18" 3/8 drive extension
3/8 drive swivel
E12 Torx socket, 3/8” drive
5/16" allen key or socket
18mm box wrench
T-60 Torx socket
large flat blade screwdriver or small prybar.
small flat blade screwdriver
small hammer
small piece of soft pine.
4 Jack stands and a good Jack......2-3 ton is preferable.

Start by getting the car in the air. I like to put the first two jack stands in the rear pockets on the rocker panels. Get it up as high as possible.
Next the exhaust needs to come off(in one piece).Loosen the forward clamps, remove the center brace, use a little wd-40 on the center rubbers and pry them off the exhaust hooks, then remove the four 13mm bolts holding the rear hangers while someone holds the tips up. If you’re by your self you can let them down.....just put some cardboard under the tips and polished parts.
Now wiggle the exhaust back and forth till it slides off the cat pipes and pull it out from under the car and out of the way.
(my exhaust is all welded, so we took the mid pipes off too)



Ok.......get the rear wheels off. Set the E-Brake. Using the 1 1/4 socket remove the axle nuts.
Now jack up the control arms slowly so they are horizontal to the ground and stick the jack stands under them.....this needs to be done to make room for the axles to swing.
Put the transmission in neutral so you can turn the driveshaft. Release E-brake.

So now that your completely committed(or should be)......grab the T-60 Torx and the 18mm box wrench and take out the four driveshaft bolts on the differential side of the yolk(silver ones).....you will need to pry the driveshaft back from the pinion. Move the shaft out of the way.



Place the jack under the differential and bring the pad up so it just makes contact. Using the 5/16 allen socket remove the allen bolt from the front of the differential.
Now get the 21mm ratchet and the breaker bar. The two remaining bolts are in the cradle right in front of the spare tire well......there is only enough room to barely get the ratchet in. You need to take 3-4 pulls and switch sides......work it back and forth like this walking the differential forward till both bolts are out(this is the biggest PITA both removal and replacement).
Once the differential is free you want to lower the jack slowly, the differential will want to go forward as it goes down so walk the jack with it. Stop the jack about halfway down. You should now be ready to use the prybar to pop the axle out of the differential. You only need to move it about a half inch with the prybar, pry on the axle flange not the seal flange. Do the drivers side first. Once the axle is sliding freely you need to wiggle the differential around till you can move the axle out far enough to angle completely out of the differential, then slide it out of the hub. Now you can do the passenger side easily.



Lower the differential to the floor. Pull the axles out of the hubs.



Replacing the hubs for heavy duty or 09 half shafts:
Make sure you have the studs pressed into the hubs before installation on car.

While the axles are out of the car using an 18mm socket remove the caliper and hang out of the way with wire. Remove the rotor. Using the 18" extension,E12 3/8" socket and swivel remove the four bolts holding the hub on from the backside of the knuckle.......remove stock hub



and replace with heavy duty hub. Reinstall bolts and torque to 50 lbft.
Reinstall rotor and caliper.(70lbft)



Slide half shafts into the hubs(Oil or anti-sieze the splines) and install and tighten axle nuts.(157 LbFt)Remember, left side is short.



Raise the differential to the removal height. Oil the splines and slide the passenger side axle into the differential and seat it. Carefully work the drivers side axle in(watch the seal) and raise the jack till axle is all the way in. Make sure it's seated.

Raise the differential back into position and carefully get the 21mm bolts started(I use antiseze here).Make sure you don't cross thread these.....if your unsure STOP!!

Tighten the 21mm bolts(162 lbft) and then replace the allen bolt(48lbft)
Next reinstall the driveshaft and tighten bolts(43lbft)
remove the jack stands under the control arms.



Slide the exhaust back under the car. Hold the front of the system up and put the brace back on......this will help if your alone. I will use a strap and tie the rear of the exhaust up so I can get it back on the cat pips......once in place put the center rubbers back on the pipes, remove strap, then install the 4 rear mounts, and finally retighten the forward clamps.
Put your wheels back on and let the car down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A tip I got today from SUBLIME130, he does this for a living and has done over a dozen

"Drop the exhaust, pull the diff down WITH the axles still in it, seems harder but not really. Fastest way to drop the stocker. Throw it on a shelf complete, with no fluid loss.

Then when putting in the Getrag put it on a trans jack after the axles are in and then tilt it to the drivers side and slide that axle in first, then jack it up for the pass side. It will be a tight fit but it works. Almost like you will hurt the axle seal, use a pry bar.

Sometimes I loosen the two front subframe bolts but not always."
 

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Thanks for the very helpful information !

How difficult is getting the high torque bolts done under the middle - can I do this lying under the car with hand tools, or should I get some air tools to help ?

There will be beer on hand to both calm the stressful moments as well as celebrate the completion :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the very helpful information !

How difficult is getting the high torque bolts done under the middle - can I do this lying under the car with hand tools, or should I get some air tools to help ?

There will be beer on hand to both calm the stressful moments as well as celebrate the completion :beerchug:
I plan on doing everything with hand tools, 2 pairs of jack stands to support the car and one set to hold up the rear suspension. I have a transmission jack for the rear diff and a new 25" 1/2" breaker bar for the axle nuts. Otherwise I will be on my back on the shop floor like you.

I think the middle bolts for the differential will be tough but doable with patience.

I should be able to do my install the week between Christmas and New Years, depending on my work schedule. If not that week not sure when I will get the chance....most likely March..
 

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I had to have a little jog welded into my exhaust to route around the bigger diff
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Which exhaust do you have? I am wondering what I will need to do with my JBA's
 

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Magnaflow catback
 

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I need to get under and look but I'll ask anyways, how hard is it to just drop the rear cradle? I'm guessing just like 4 bolts if I can vision it in my head
 
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Thanks for the notes. Im gunna write em down and get some marine buddies to elp me when i get the parts.
How much you think all this costs, obviously gunna save lots on the install!!!
 

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Used getrag and axles you can probably come in at under 1500 or less depending on if you find good deals or not. Brand new everything is probably gonna run around 22-2800 if you go with the 3.91s. 3.06 and 3.73 getrags are alot more expensive and harder to find. For something to go off of, mine cost me a little over 800$ for everything with a used getrag and refurbished axles. That the lowest side of things as I found some one on eBay who had no clue that what getrags are worth. Only paid 300$ to my door for the pumpkin.
 
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Used getrag and axles you can probably come in at under 1500 or less depending on if you find good deals or not. Brand new everything is probably gonna run around 22-2800 if you go with the 3.91s. 3.06 and 3.73 getrags are alot more expensive and harder to find. For something to go off of, mine cost me a little over 800$ for everything with a used getrag and refurbished axles. That the lowest side of things as I found some one on eBay who had no clue that what getrags are worth. Only paid 300$ to my door for the pumpkin.
Haha same here i paid a bit over 1000 for everything. Give me anything else you can info wise. I have accessto a lift and trans jack
 

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Haha same here i paid a bit over 1000 for everything. Give me anything else you can info wise. I have accessto a lift and trans jack
Frank, if I had to do it all over again I would semi drop the cradle to make removing the two 21mm bolts easier to take out and reinstall. To do this remove the rear cradle bolts and loosen the front bolts so they are barely grabbing. This will allow the rear of the cradle to hang down and make it easier to remove the diff bolts.( be sure to take a sharpie and putting the cradle bushing to the body so it goes back into the same place which it should regardless. If the axles give you trouble coming out of the hubs have a buddy hold a sledge hammer against the axles but with it twisted out to the end of the axle threads flush. Then take another sledge hammer and hit the one setting against the axle. Pops right out:driving:
 
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I just got 2 of the 4 packages. Got the left axle and the hubs, I think they are still embedded in the chally setup, I don't know If I can remove them, but hopefully my buddy knows. This seems like its gunna be a Royal PITA for a first timer. Anyhow Im supposed to be getting the diff, complete driveshaft( I dunno maybe the coupler is included), other axle and bolts tomorrow. I have to go to autozone to get some anti seize. Anyway I wish there was a video showing the install, but as usual there is not. Maybe Ill record the process to help out others, or show what NOT to do (hopefully that's not the case) but anyway... Im gunna need someones phone number to talk to em to make sure this all goes well when I do the install. Errr, I wish someone with prior knowledge on this type of install could come to base with me to assist me in this tedious activity.
 

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Pm sent bud, incase you get in a bind.
 

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Would this be the same for a SXT with stock R/T exhaust? I may have something in the works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It would be the same for a v6 I believe. But not sure
 

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Thanks. I will look into this more to go with future mods.
 
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