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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.. New here, first post.. I have an 06 Charger R/T. Bought it used a few months back with 124,000 miles logged. Love the car, but man does this thing have gremlins. Currently, my main issues are running rich, coolant drinking, and Watery oil. No clots in the cap, but the oil that is collected in it smells Salty and always
looks "thin". So today I replaced the CTS and while doing that I set the cap in the sunlight. When I was done, the cap was almost completely dry. So, last I checked, motor oil doesn't evap in sunlight. So 2+2=5 right? Lol.. Well, joking aside, I think I know what is happening but not sure how to figure out exactly how the x-contam is happening. Normally I would guess head gasket, but some of the usual tells aren't there and dealer I got the car from put "new" heads on the motor.. At least the gaskets were new, and only 1500 miles since.. Doesn't mean they did it right though. Also, upper hose blew third day in.. Discovered stop leak was in the coolant.. My engine is now sparkly in the sun lol.. Any help would be awesome.. Thanks guys!
 

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You can perform a cooling system pressure test, cylinder compression pressure test and cylinder combustion pressure leakage test. Or you can remove the heads do a visual inspection.
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Charge:
Welcome to the forum. Being an '06, there is a good chance the heads were replaced due to dropped valve seats which is common for the '06 Charger hemi engine. I have to wonder if they got in there, saw the mess, and just threw a set of "new" heads on to get it out of their hair. It might be worse than you think, or you might get lucky. Hopefully, they made some minor error when they put it back together that you can correct without great expense.

Don
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Hey, thanks for the quick responses and info.. Will do those pressure tests asap.. There is no milkshake..that's the odd thing about this. Oil is clear (translucent), just has that additional odd smell (salty) mingling with the typical used oil odors, and seems really thin, and shouldn't evaporate.. There is so much going on with this thing it's difficult to separate the relevant info from the unnecessary in my posts to foster the best responses/help.. Other issues that may help are.. Plugs pulled for inspection first day home, and besides being over gapped ten thousandths, all were new and had normal deposits, except cyls. #4 & #5 which were oil fouled. Cleaned those, regapped all and moved on. It's been 500-600 miles since, so going to pull again today to reinspect. Also, car blew good amounts of white smoke on decent
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acceleration (at times) the first month or so, and has since miraculously ceased. Throttle body was so dirty, I almost just bought a new one instead of cleaning, but saved my money.. Replaced PCV. I guess that's enough for now.. I'm going to try to find a place near me to do an oil test, and try to get some of those other tests done. I will post again when I find out anything important.. Oh and the heads were NOT new, just gaskets. I'm sure they meant new as in rebuilt, or off another motor so "new" by very loose definition. Used car dealers.. Shadiest people ever..
 

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Ok, it being a work in progress. Hopefully, the heads they put on are not the same bad ones that may put you through round 2 of the valve seat issue. That throttle body looks terrible! Just take your time, and work though things as you can.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, it being a work in progress. Hopefully, the heads they put on are not the same bad ones that may put you through round 2 of the valve seat issue. That throttle body looks terrible! Just take your time, and work though things as you can.

Don
LOL, yeah that TB without question was the worst I've ever seen.. It's much better now, but its already collecting again, of course. I did notice it has thus weird "crazing" pattern in it that makes me think moisture...
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Hey guys.. A little update on the oil/Coolant story..

I rented a cooling system pressure tester from the local O'Reillys ($160!!!) and after figuring out how to get the extremely touchy adapter to stay on and finding and fixing the leak in the tester's pressure line 🙄 I was able to test my system. The loss of coolant was coming from both ends of the upper radiator hose. New hose, water outlet, and thermostat (in addition to replacing the lower hose) done two months ago. So some of you may be saying to yourselves "there should have been obvious signs of that much coolant leaking from both ends of the upper hose!", and I would not blame any of you, because when I found the leaks, I felt like faceplanting onto the strut tower bolts and cursing myself for being an idiot. But, since I am used to this ugly mug without bolt holes in it, I decided to continue lol. The culprit? The ultra expensive, ultra inferior hose clamps that came in blister packs of two for only $5, for our convenience! Complete garbage.. Buyer beware lol.. I miss the old days when you walk in to the local parts store and things like clamps, bolts etc. were in big bins and you not only could help yourself to as many as you wanted for less than quarter each, plus you could generally expect them to work as intended. Wheeewww! OK.. Enough whining lol.. So I am not convinced that those leaks are the only leaks even though pressure held after fixing them. Leaks were small and I never saw sign or found them despite searching almost every time I shut the car off, and the amount of coolant that was disappearing seems disproportionate to the discovery. Burped system and topped off reservoir.. Time will tell.. Still need to pull plugs for inspection and compression test motor.. Will try to have those finished before my next post..
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