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2019 Dodge Charger R/T
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When I joined this forum and started looking around, I was surprised at the lack of "which oil should I use?" threads. :p

Now you'll have to pardon me - I need to go start another thread proclaiming the tires on my rims exceed all others in quality, longevity, and price...and yours are :poop: :ROFLMAO:
 

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I have never had a problem with Mobil 1 however they don’t make a oil up to Mopar specs for the Hellcat or the 392 so I am using the Pennzoil which the Stealership stocks in quart bottles and not in bulk.
So at least I know what I am getting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have never had a problem with Mobil 1 however they don’t make a oil up to Mopar specs for the Hellcat or the 392 so I am using the Pennzoil which the Stealership stocks in quart bottles and not in bulk.
So at least I know what I am getting.
You're lucky. The dealers around here all use MB1 for factory fill. I've never seen the Pennzoil for sale anywhere, although I guess I could just order it online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Which Infiniti do you have? I had always used Mobil 1 5W-30 in mine, with the 3.7's anyway..

I've used Mobil 1 exclusively for nearly a decade in all of my performance motors, bikes & cars. I'm a big fan and I've had no reason to think otherwise. I'll never forget the first time I had switched from whatever garbage the dealership used (in the car when I had purchased it; I never go to the dealer myself for maintenance) in my 350z to the Mobil 1 full synthetic..it was like the car was granted a new life.

I think more times than not, the oil change intervals are conservative. I believe the other issue is that you really don't recognize any "issues" until it is far down the road and often too late. This is why these things are known as maintenance items. Obviously, it absolutely depends on the specific vehicles and it's conditions as well. My rule of thumb is typically change the oil at about 5K (for the full synthetic). Though I do believe it is rated for 10k miles. Oil isn't that expensive and it gives me a piece of mind. I also am one to stretch the legs on my cars, not beat on them, but they do get driven as they should.
QX30, 2.0L turbo 4. Same thing as a GLA. It's an MB with Infiniti badging. Tiny little thing but suits her just fine.
 

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How an oil looks is not really a good test as to its condition. You'd need to have it tested for that. A big factor of oil are the detergents and how fast they break down. Synth oils tend to be better in this regard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
How an oil looks is not really a good test as to its condition. You'd need to have it tested for that. A big factor of oil are the detergents and how fast they break down. Synth oils tend to be better in this regard.
You're right. I'm just stating the Mobil 1 container says it's good for 15,000 miles.
 

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I’ve been changing oil every 6 months in order to keep the warranty intact & only put on 1K-2K miles between oil changes lately.

I've been using a Mopar coupon, $100 for 3 oil & filter changes, about $33 per change. They only charged me for the extra 2 quarts of Pennzoil 0W-40 the first time so that was about $120 (100 +20) and haven't paid anything since. Plus the last time they installed the 041 SRT oil filter. I’ll have to get another coupon this year while they’re still available in case they are not offered next year.
 

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I just use a good EVOO.
 

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I’ve been changing oil every 6 months in order to keep the warranty intact & only put on 1K-2K miles between oil changes lately.

I've been using a Mopar coupon, $100 for 3 oil & filter changes, about $33 per change. They only charged me for the extra 2 quarts of Pennzoil 0W-40 the first time so that was about $120 (100 +20) and haven't paid anything since. Plus the last time they installed the 041 SRT oil filter. I’ll have to get another coupon this year while they’re still available in case they are not offered next year.
I grabbed the same deal from the local dealer. But it was $150 for 3 oil changes.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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I grabbed the same deal from the local dealer. But it was $150 for 3 oil changes.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
I'm presuming it's dependent on the region the dealer is in. This is a copy of the one I used. Does yours have the same Plan Code or Coupon ID?
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I suggest you to get an oil analysis done.


You can get a TBN done, which tells you the active additives still left in the oil. Costs extra $20-30 on top of the $wanna say $30 bucks) for the oil sample.

Here is my Pursuits history. I got TBN once, (very bottom, 5.0 reading which is ALOT) although the oil had only like 4K miles on it. The middle right center-ish column is my first sample where cam and lifter were failing and the wear metals (iron) showed it via high numbers.

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What the hell, may as well piss some people off. I'm convinced that pretty much all off the shelf gasoline oils are shit anymore if you want your engine to last. The epa keeps making manufacturers pull more and more anti scuff additives out to make it more environmentally friendly and to increase mpg. They don't want your vehicle to last, they want you to buy something new every 5 years.

Quantum blue, amsoil, redline, or even rotella diesel oil with more anti scuff additives (really more like the numbers that used to be in gas oils) will protect your engine far better in the long run.
 

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What the hell, may as well piss some people off. I'm convinced that pretty much all off the shelf gasoline oils are shit anymore if you want your engine to last. The epa keeps making manufacturers pull more and more anti scuff additives out to make it more environmentally friendly and to increase mpg. They don't want your vehicle to last, they want you to buy something new every 5 years.

Quantum blue, amsoil, redline, or even rotella diesel oil with more anti scuff additives (really more like the numbers that used to be in gas oils) will protect your engine far better in the long run.
What's funny, is running those oils is not any promise of having failures. Pretty sure the thread about guy running the magical QB from get go having a failed lifter like everyone else showcases that, amongst the many more I read about on FB groups with issues running special oils.

Special Oils is not going to save anyone. Taking care of the car will.


But then again, I am not sucked into some ones marketing who literally lies about the products sold, and any affiliation with the actual parent company that holds EPA registration on some of the products, that once again, have no affiliation with them.
 
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What's funny, is running those oils is not any promise of having failures. Pretty sure the thread about guy running the magical QB from get go having a failed lifter like everyone else showcases that, amongst the many more I read about on FB groups with issues running special oils.

Special Oils is not going to save anyone. Taking care of the car will.


But then again, I am not sucked into some ones marketing who literally lies about the products sold, and any affiliation with the actual parent company that holds EPA registration on some of the products, that once again, have no affiliation with them.
I didn't say that any of those would prevent lifter failures in hemis (there's more to that than is the scope of this thread). I said they have more anti scuff additives than off the shelf gasoline oils (which is backed up by data) and that they in general protect better because of it. Particularly with older engines designed with higher additive levels in mind, running stuff with additive packages above what the EPA jagoffs allow isn't a bad thing.
 

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I don't know how this figures into engine longevity, but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is made from natural gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
What the hell, may as well piss some people off. I'm convinced that pretty much all off the shelf gasoline oils are shit anymore if you want your engine to last. The epa keeps making manufacturers pull more and more anti scuff additives out to make it more environmentally friendly and to increase mpg. They don't want your vehicle to last, they want you to buy something new every 5 years.

Quantum blue, amsoil, redline, or even rotella diesel oil with more anti scuff additives (really more like the numbers that used to be in gas oils) will protect your engine far better in the long run.
I've always been interested in AMSoil. I'm guessing you have to buy it online?
 

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You can get amsoil directly from them online or if you happen to have an amsoil dealer around you however they'd offer.
 

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Interesting low-tech torture test of Amsoil vs M1.


Best,
 

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The takeaway I got was if you have a 1 cylinder Predator engine in your Charger, use Mobile 1 if you want the extra 2 minutes of protection before it locks up from oil starvation.

Actually I like those YouTube videos. I can sit for hours looking at the oddest stuff
 
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