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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Newbie here. I recently bought a 2007 Dodge Charger Daytona R/T.
I live in texas and wanted to kno whats the best choice for Oil and Filter. I was going to go with 7q of mobile 1 5w20 with a fram filter but jus wanted to see what else i can use. Help is very much appreciated.
 

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Hey guys. Newbie here. I recently bought a 2007 Dodge Charger Daytona R/T.
I live in texas and wanted to kno whats the best choice for Oil and Filter. I was going to go with 7q of mobile 1 5w20 with a fram filter but jus wanted to see what else i can use. Help is very much appreciated.
Welcome to the Best Forums!!

What you really want instead of the Mobil 1 and Fram filter is a QuantumBlue 7.5w23 High Performance Competition Formula and a QuantumBlue Ultra High Performance Oil Filter (Free this month with the May Special).

This oil has been used with over 4,000 + 5.7L MDS Hemi engines with excellent results and virtually zero wear between changes. We are talking 10,000 mile changes and up. Some are going 12,000 to 15,000 miles on one change.

Mobil 1 really doesn't give you very good protection these days and Fram filters are some of the WORST ones out there!

Here is an example of a 4,900 mile oil change with Mobil 1 and a Fram filter:




Notice the Iron at 48 parts in 4,900 miles. 9 parts chromium which is ring, 16 parts lead which is bearing and 7 parts nickel which is valve.

Now compare that with QuantumBlue at 12,573 and 14,899 miles:



11 parts on iron in 12,573, 17 parts iron in 14,899. Zero chromium, zero lead, zero nickel. Much better way to go while being cheaper!!

Here is the Fram filter vs the QuantumBlue Filter:

Leaf spring is not even touching the end of the filter and the end caps are PAPER!! This filter has 36 pletes!



Look at the pletes and how non-uniform they are. Under pressure they will fold right over!





And QuantumBlue:

Look how tight the pletes are and how many more there are as we have 58 pletes. So 58 - 36 = 22 div by 58 = 37% more pletes or surface area! All epoxied into place so that can't fold. Steel end caps and a coil spring for better face retention to the front of the filter. No leaking here!




$102.08 for 8 quarts....7 for the change and 1 for top off during the initial 10k mile oil drain and the filter is Free.

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164545

Here is what our customers say about us on this forum:

http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158448

Let's just say we are passionate about helping people protect their cars as soon as possible!!

There is a difference!:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Stay away from the Fram filter. They are very cheap inside!

Wix, Mobil1, Mopar and Autocraft (Ford) are all great filters.

Mobil 1 isn't what it used to be, you want the Mobil 1 extended performance, it's more like the old formula of Mobil 1

I buy my oil at Walmart in the 5qt. jugs, I get three jugs which do two oil changes, about $75 and good for 20k+ miles.
 

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By the way, the Mobil 1 and K&N Filters are made by the same company....Champion labs. They flush the contaminants right down the side of the filter and right into the engine during bypass.....which every filter does for 5 minutes or so.



QuantumBlue is different:



Our view point is this:

Whether Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, Quaker Q, Napa Synthetic etc, they all have the same major problem and that is PAO or Poly Alpha Olefin base oil stock. It is the base that is the major problem here!

This molecule is very small and easily pumpable, tends to wear faster, and oxidize more since it is so small and can hold only so much heat......which leads to thermal and viscosity shear. Since they have less zinc and phosophorous in their compounds to meet the ILSAC GF5 and API SN specs, it is like skim milk instead of Vitamin D milk! Thin oil with hot surfaces creates more wear and friction.

Our formulas are much more robust with a much larger molecule....still synthetic but having much more carrying capacity so that you get better pumpability, wearability, and oxidation stability while much friendlier on your seals and your solubility....the ability of your additive packages to stay in suspension much better to protect your engine, transmission, and differential far better. When you are talking about a performance car, price should not be the only factor here.

I look at it this way. Making the best brownies that have the most expensive chocolate, best milk, very best sifted flour and the most rich butter but the brownies contain a base mixture of dog poop. It is not the rest of the ingredients that matter but what the base of the brownies are made of! Same with the PAO as it is the dog poop that ruins the rest of the formula.

Hope this clarifies.;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome thanks for the info Jonny.
 

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I use Pennzoil Ultra with a Mopar or Bosch oil filter. And I have a magnetic drain plug...
 

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I use K&N filters and Mobil 1 in all my cars. My old beater a 1999 Lincoln Town car went over 235,000 miles before I sold it to a guy in Florida a year ago who is still driving it!!!!!
 

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I go to the Dodge dealer and get what they recommend. :banana:


Mobil 1 and a genuine Mopar filter. :locked:
 

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I use K&N filters and Mobil 1 in all my cars. My old beater a 1999 Lincoln Town car went over 235,000 miles before I sold it to a guy in Florida a year ago who is still driving it!!!!!
Did you see the inside of the K&N that I posted!!? Both K&N and Mobil 1 filters are the same! Do you really want to wash the contaminants into the engine for the first 5 minutes?

Look closely. Not a good idea!!;) QuantumBlue Ultra HP Oil filters are made the most durable possible on the market today!

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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I go to the Dodge dealer and get what they recommend. :banana:


Mobil 1 and a genuine Mopar filter. :locked:
Dodge stopped using Mobile 1 a while ago and now they recommend using Penzoil Platinum for the SRT. If your dealer is still using Mobile 1, they aren't following the factory recommendation.
 

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According to Pennzoil's website, Pennzoil Ultra not Platinum is the factory fill in SRT-8 engines. Platinum isn't available in the recommended 0W-40 viscosity (at least it isn't shown on their website).
 

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According to Pennzoil's website, Pennzoil Ultra not Platinum is the factory fill in SRT-8 engines. Platinum isn't available in the recommended 0W-40 viscosity (at least it isn't shown on their website).
^^this is correct.


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Here is some information copied and pasted from the online 2013 Charger SRT8 Maintenance Manuel. :bigthumb:

http://www.chryslercommercialvehicles.com/dodge/download/pdf/manuals/2013-Charger_SRT8-OM-2nd.pdf

"Use of genuine MOPAR
parts for normal/scheduled
maintenance and repairs is highly recommended to en-
sure the designed performance. Damage or failures
caused by the use of non-MOPAR
parts for maintenance
and repairs will not be covered by the manufacturer’s
warranty."

"Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends full synthetic engine oils that meet the
American Petroleum Institute (API) categories of SM or
SM/CF.
The manufacturer recommends the use of a full synthetic
SAE 0W-40 engine oil or equivalent."

"Engine Oil Viscosity
SAE 0W-40 Full Synthetic engine oil is preferred for use
in all operating temperatures."

"Engine Oil Filter
The engine oil filter should be replaced with a new filter
at every engine oil change.
Engine Oil Filter Selection
This manufacturer’s engines have a full-flow type oil
filter. Use a filter of this type for replacement. The quality
of replacement filters varies considerably. Only high
quality filters should be used to assure most efficient
service. MOPAR
engine oil filters are a high quality oil
filter and are recommended"

"NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change in-
tervals exceed 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or six months,
whichever occurs first."

"Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends full synthetic engine oils that meet the
American Petroleum Institute (API) categories of SM or
SM/CF.
The manufacturer recommends the use of a full synthetic
SAE 0W-40 engine oil or equivalent."

Looks like to keep my SRT8 under full warranty I need to keep using genuine Mopar oil filters and any high quality full synthetic SAE 0W-40 full synthetic. :beerchug:
 

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Beem lookin at that penzoil ultra at walmart very cheapo...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How about Royal Purple with Mopar Oil Filter?
And which royal purple do i use? 5w-20 or 5w-30? Everyones telling me
5w-30 cause of how hot it is here in Houston. Opinions?
 

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Do not put Royal Purple in your car unless you don't want it to last. It is always one of the worst performers in engine oil lab results and after seeing what it did to the inside of a motor I used in my truck I wouldn't recommend it to anyone and it will never be in any vehicle I own.
 

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Do not put Royal Purple in your car unless you don't want it to last. It is always one of the worst performers in engine oil lab results and after seeing what it did to the inside of a motor I used in my truck I wouldn't recommend it to anyone and it will never be in any vehicle I own.
Have used it since I bought my car. 2 and half years later no issues.

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