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Discussion Starter #1
The other week my passenger side low-beam bulb went out a block away from the house. After flipping the lights off and on, the passenger side low-beam returned. There was a noticeable delay (1 to 2 seconds) between the driver and passenger side low beams turning on. I don't notice any discolouration between the driver and passenger side low beams. They look pretty similar to me. They start out "blue" (cold start) and slowly make their way to a more "white-ish" tone.

This morning I drove into work. By the time I arrived at work I went to see if the passenger side bulb went out. The good news, the passenger side did not go out. The bad news, the driver side went out. Flipping off the lights and turning resolved the drive side.

Looking in the owners manual, it mentions the HID bulbs should be replaced by a certified service location. Is this something that can be done by myself or do I really need to schedule an appointment?

Last year I had a similar issue. Perhaps last March? That time I noticed a haze/vapour coming out from passenger side light area. I thought to myself, "Hey it's kind of dark outside, and woah that doesn't look right." After getting out of the vehicle to look, I noticed the light passenger light wasn't on. I didn't see any condensation to account for the vapour. Then again, it was pretty dark. Turning the light on and off returned the light to normal. After a day or so I brought it to the dealer for its regular scheduled maintenance (when I stilled lived in Massachusetts). I mentioned the passenger side light went out, thinking it might have to be changed. The service advisor informed me there was a TSB for the wiring harness for the lights (granted I thought it was just for the standard lights). After they inspected my vehicle they didn't find anything wrong with the wiring harness. They also said the lights were fine. Nothing was replaced.

2011 R/T PLUS AWD
 

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You can easily replace the OEM HID bulbs yourself. The dealership will charge upwards of $200+ to replace your bulbs

They may even try to sell you bulbs for $100 each

Make sure your bulbs are seated in the socket properly and the connections are tight, that could be contributing to your issues

Feel free to give us a call for more troubleshooting tips: (314) 205-3033

Nick C.
 

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Be VERY careful the first time... the fastening rings are very easy to remove, but are extremely tight the first time you remove them. All it takes is a simple 1/8 turn to the left (standing behind the vehicle looking forward) to loosen, and the opposite to fasten. The ring slides off the bulb and onto the new one. There are small tabs that you can get extra grip, but this is also where it can break.

The first time I removed them, I took off the entire front fascia and removed the headlights entirely. Even with the headlights on the work bench, it was still a heck of a task and I thought they would break!!! It's been really easy swapping bulbs since then. I doubt your bulbs are dead though if they're still working... sounds like it'd be something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the tip. Bulbs arrived this evening. I am likely going to try and get this done tomorrow morning. It wouldn't surprise if it was something else... with my luck for the past month.

Since I made the initial post, the headlights (low beams) basically turn on for a few minutes at a time. They never come back on until you manually switch the low beams on and off. One or both of them will turn off in the middle of driving. It's quite scary since it gets dark pretty early now.

I did take a look at the wiring leading to the headlight assembly during my lunch break. Everything seemed to be in order. A little dusty. Nothing couldn't be easily dusted off. I liked how the high beams are easy to get to, but the low beams leave little (to no) room.

The driver side has no room with the Mopar CAI in place. Maybe removing that will give me the access I need without taking off the facia. The passenger side looks like you can access the low beam dust cover by taking off part of the wheel cover.

I have no problem removing the facia. I've done that before. Back in August, someone backed into my car. It must have been a vehicle with a hitch assembly/shaft. It pushed in the bumper just below the cross-haired grill. Thankfully it didn't break or crack the cover. It left a squarish mark with rounded edges and indentation. The paint was pealed off about a quarter inch wide around the indentation. The cross-haired grill was slightly scratched, but not broken. Thankfully! It was un-clipped in the section that was indented. There was no note left on my vehicle to at least say "sorry". Luckily when I removed the bumper, it was easy to push out the indentation, and re-clip it to the grill. One day I'll get the cover repainted. :)
 

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Thank you for the tip. Bulbs arrived this evening. I am likely going to try and get this done tomorrow morning. It wouldn't surprise if it was something else... with my luck for the past month.

Since I made the initial post, the headlights (low beams) basically turn on for a few minutes at a time. They never come back on until you manually switch the low beams on and off. One or both of them will turn off in the middle of driving. It's quite scary since it gets dark pretty early now.

I did take a look at the wiring leading to the headlight assembly during my lunch break. Everything seemed to be in order. A little dusty. Nothing couldn't be easily dusted off. I liked how the high beams are easy to get to, but the low beams leave little (to no) room.

The driver side has no room with the Mopar CAI in place. Maybe removing that will give me the access I need without taking off the facia. The passenger side looks like you can access the low beam dust cover by taking off part of the wheel cover.

I have no problem removing the facia. I've done that before. Back in August, someone backed into my car. It must have been a vehicle with a hitch assembly/shaft. It pushed in the bumper just below the cross-haired grill. Thankfully it didn't break or crack the cover. It left a squarish mark with rounded edges and indentation. The paint was pealed off about a quarter inch wide around the indentation. The cross-haired grill was slightly scratched, but not broken. Thankfully! It was un-clipped in the section that was indented. There was no note left on my vehicle to at least say "sorry". Luckily when I removed the bumper, it was easy to push out the indentation, and re-clip it to the grill. One day I'll get the cover repainted. :)
You can access the dust covers on both sides through just the hood. The driver side will require removing the CAI, but it is actually easier to work on at that point due to the passenger side having the washer tank in the way... trust me, it's in the way! You can't properly look inside the headlight to see what you're really doing, or get your arm in the best spots for torquing the ring on or off...

I only recommended a complete disassembly because the first time is usually hell for people. I don't know why they're on so tight, but once they are taken off once, they're CAKE.
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You can access the dust covers on both sides through just the hood. The driver side will require removing the CAI, but it is actually easier to work on at that point due to the passenger side having the washer tank in the way... trust me, it's in the way! You can't properly look inside the headlight to see what you're really doing, or get your arm in the best spots for torquing the ring on or off...

I only recommended a complete disassembly because the first time is usually hell for people. I don't know why they're on so tight, but once they are taken off once, they're CAKE.
Well, that was difficult. I got one light out successfully without breaking the retainer ring holding in the HID bulb in the socket. Unfortunately I broke a little part of the second light retainer ring. It still sealed perfectly fine. Nothing moved once it was twisted into place. I wonder if a replacement retainer ring can be purchased. I don't see a part resembling the ring on the parts list for the HID headlight assembly.

Edit: Everything turned and stayed on. I'll see if they need to be aligned later tonight. :-D
 

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Well, that was difficult. I got one light out successfully without breaking the retainer ring holding in the HID bulb in the socket. Unfortunately I broke a little part of the second light retainer ring. It still sealed perfectly fine. Nothing moved once it was twisted into place. I wonder if a replacement retainer ring can be purchased. I don't see a part resembling the ring on the parts list for the HID headlight assembly.

Edit: Everything turned and stayed on. I'll see if they need to be aligned later tonight. :-D
People have been in the same boat and haven't been able to find a replacement part to my knowledge. As long as it's holding in there, it should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Slight update: A lot has happened since the initial post. Basically I moved 400 miles, south, covered in snow. After two sets of bulbs from Diode Dynamics, I took the car into the dealer for an issue concerning the water pump (57,000 mi.). While it was there, I told them to take a look at the HID ballast. They told me that they tested both ballasts, and they were good to go. The problem appeared to be the body control module (BCM). I honestly have no idea what the BCM is. I asked him how much it was. The dealer told me it was $650.00 to replace. I basically dead-panned for a moment or two. Then I remembered I had an extended warranty on the car. After much debate with this particular dealer, they determined my extended warranty with Zurich was indeed valid, and I only had to pay $100 deductible.

Magically after replacing the BCM, as you would have probably guessed it, the HID ballast on the driver side went "bad". They quoted me at $195.00 for the ballast and another $81.00 to install. I was a little curious as they are an authorized parts retailer. The HID ballast on their website indicates the part is ~$130.00. No answer as to why it's $195 + labour. *face plant*
 

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Slight update: A lot has happened since the initial post. Basically I moved 400 miles, south, covered in snow. After two sets of bulbs from Diode Dynamics, I took the car into the dealer for an issue concerning the water pump (57,000 mi.). While it was there, I told them to take a look at the HID ballast. They told me that they tested both ballasts, and they were good to go. The problem appeared to be the body control module (BCM). I honestly have no idea what the BCM is. I asked him how much it was. The dealer told me it was $650.00 to replace. I basically dead-panned for a moment or two. Then I remembered I had an extended warranty on the car. After much debate with this particular dealer, they determined my extended warranty with Zurich was indeed valid, and I only had to pay $100 deductible.

Magically after replacing the BCM, as you would have probably guessed it, the HID ballast on the driver side went "bad". They quoted me at $195.00 for the ballast and another $81.00 to install. I was a little curious as they are an authorized parts retailer. The HID ballast on their website indicates the part is ~$130.00. No answer as to why it's $195 + labour. *face plant*
It's always best to start with the least expensive component (bulbs), and then work your way up (ballast), before replacing the most expensive system (BCM).

That's a shady tactic by the dealer, and I'm sorry to hear they didn't diagnose the ballast failure first

Nick C.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
It's always best to start with the least expensive component (bulbs), and then work your way up (ballast), before replacing the most expensive system (BCM).

That's a shady tactic by the dealer, and I'm sorry to hear they didn't diagnose the ballast failure first

Nick C.
Don't worry, they also got me for the (a) coolant flush for the warranted waterpump (~240$); (b) the rear differential fluid (~270$); (c) the transfer case fluid (~270$); (d) front swaybar bushings/links (~438$). My local mechanic only charged me $175 for the rear links, as a set, back in November. I swear he said ~$220 over the phone yesterday. I guess he meant $220 each; and (e) the HID ballast for ~263$. To add to the massive pile of stuff, they also informed me this morning that my front axle and/or front differential is non-functional. They wont know until tomorrow. Day 3 of annoyance. Dang-it. I haven't even put new tires on her. /eol
 

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Don't worry, they also got me for the (a) coolant flush for the warranted waterpump (~240$), the rear differential fluid (~270$); (b) the transfer case fluid (~270$); (c) front swaybar bushings/links (~438$). My local mechanic only charged me $175 for the rear links, as a set, back in November. I swear he said ~$220 over the phone yesterday. I guess he meant $220 each; and (d) the HID ballast for ~263$. To add to the massive pile of stuff, they also informed me this morning that my front axle and/or front differential is non-functional. They wont know until tomorrow. Day 3 of annoyance. Dang-it. I haven't even put new tires on her. /eol
Sounds like a stealership to me? That's a lot of maintenance issues all at once :frown2:

Nick C.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good news. After two weeks, I finally got my vehicle back from the dealership last Thursday. They were able to track down a problem with the AWD. This has been something I've been complaining about for 30,000 miles (give or take). It turns out that my CV intermediate shaft wasn't engaging correctly. All it took was for them to find the problem was the mechanic getting stuck in the snow. The slipping and hard shifting (more like a sudden jolt out of nowhere, even on cruise control) are finally gone! Gone! All serviced under the drive-train warranty. Elated to say the least.... and the dealership in Massachusetts told me I was "wasting" their [our] "time with nonsense".

Bad news. After having both the BCM and ballasts replaced, the troublesome driver-side light went out this morning. It will come back on after turning flipping the lights on and off. Much like before. I have one last set of new bulbs that I'll be able to try this weekend. If the problem persists, I'll bring it back to the dealership.

Curious question: Should I be concerned that the driver-side light is noticeably brighter than the passenger-side (duller)?
 
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