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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right now I have a AFE CAI and a magnaflow dual exhaust put on my sxt...i was wondering if i did a 50 or 75 shot of nos if it would be too rough on my engine? Also im thinking about getting the diablo tune cuz ive heard good stuff about it even for the sxt.
 

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diablo is a must...and Ive heard of people getting a 50 shot on the 3.5s.....but on a stock internals I pry wouldnt do any more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, Would i have to make huge modifications in order to run a 75 shot? Also is a 50 shot of NOS actually equivilant to getting 50hp to the wheels?
 

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depends on the kit about the actual HP to teh wheels.. noramally they are off a few plus or minus... but to answer you questions, a wet 75 will be just fine as long as you know how to use nitrous, like never spraying longer than say 8seconds and never back to back sprays as it creates tons of heat and friction and you need ample time to let it cool before your next shot, and also never spray under 3k rpms... 75 is safe on a 3.5... but i say start with the 50, then jump it to a 75 and then a 90... if you do 90, or even a 75 get a one step colder plug as well for safety and only spray with 93 in the tank for the best cimbustion. if you go over 125 use a 2step colder plug.. 125 is the max i would do with stock internals with a 2step colder plug........ its only as safe as you make it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
depends on the kit about the actual HP to teh wheels.. noramally they are off a few plus or minus... but to answer you questions, a wet 75 will be just fine as long as you know how to use nitrous, like never spraying longer than say 8seconds are never back to back as it creates tons of heat and you need ample time to let it cool before you next shot, and also never spray under 3k rpms... 75 is safe on a 3.5... but i say start with the 50, then jump it to a 75 and then a 90... if you do 90, or even a 75 get a one step colder plug as well for safetly and only spray with 93 in teh tank. if you go over 125 use a 2step colder plug.. 125 is the max i would do with stock internals with a 2step colder plug........ its only as safe as you make it...
They were going to install it as a switch where it only engages when i have the pedal to the floor.

Sounds like it would be safer for me to wait for my credit history to be "stronger" and upgrade to and r/t in a year or so....
 

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well i work for a nitrous manufacturing components company, i know the ins and out like nothing... the switch you speak off is called a throttle switch which i suggest for every beginner. i only use button activagtors because of personal preference. i know when and when not to spray only because im a pro at this. i prefer the button so i can still mash the gas while the system is armed and then push the button when i want
and depress when i want such as when the trans swithes gears so its not spraying between the shifts for that half second... then again they make window switches for that too, again for beginners.. i been using n2o since i been about 9yrs old on my go carts.... and since then i have been spraying everything i own nowdays.. afterall i do work for a nitrous component manufacuter that basically private labels most of the parts you see out on the market from other brands, but in all reality, they all really come from our factories..... if you have some techinical questions just hit me up.. the phone is the best way for me to explain things as is gets pretty in depth and maybe overwhelming at first... but once your used to it, its cake walk especially with window switches and throttle switches and all that neat safetly stuff and once you understand how it works and when to use it... me on the other hand, i just listen to teh motor, she tells me all i need to know....... its NOT like the fast and the furious.. you dont use it high speeds in higher gears, its more for from a dig. to get from a short speed to a higher speed as fast as possible...
 

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well i have gotten several PMs regarding this topic. so i figure i will post some of my responses to some of them here so others with same questions can refer to this thread for some useful info and answers--your welcome!

and for those that i haven't answered yet.. gimmie some time, at work right now.. just doing this for you guys in between my regular duties, ya dig?


SkittlesRGood said:
Hey! So I was reading that topic you replied to yesterday about the 3.5 SXT getting NOS and I need to know some things. I own a 2.7L V6 charger with stock engine. What would be the best shot of NOS to get *Dry, wet, etc..*? How much power should I go with, I was thinking about 100? Would I need a cooler plug? Would I need to make any modifications to the engine? What type of switch(s) should I get? And lastly, when should I use it and for how long?

Thanks! :)
well i have a dodge stratus that i spray all the time with your same 2.7L block. i use a 75shot on it and it runs fine. its the same 2.7block you have. i started out with a 50shot and then jumped it to a 75 and a few more higher jets just to see what results we would get out of her. 75 seems to be the best for the 2.7L ok, and it could safely handle a 90 or even a 100 in moderation as i have jumped it there as well many times but then dropped it back down to 75 as it seems to be the safest for daily sprays according to my widebands and egts..... heres a few pic of it.









on my shops dyno--just under 250whp on 20's.. actual numbers were like 248Fwhp and 279torque





the c/f arming switch and red purge button


button activator, no throttle switch as i hate those things




heres the 2solenoids for nitrous and for the fuel and 1 solenoid for the purge. that one is hidden and mounted sideways behind in the back of other 2 and of course the purge tube exit you see. with atleast 950lbs of pressure in the tank it purges about 6ft in the air and makes a loud azz whooshing noise like a turbos blow off valve.


pretty stealth purge exit id did huh, barely visible...


for the haters





and you can safely run a 50shot in a 2.7 or 3.5 with no modifications other than a proper air intake tube to tap the nozzles in securely, however you can still just use the stock air tube if needed. all you would need to do to be able to tap them into the plastic tube really good is by installing a little metal round hollow tube piece inside the stock tubing to tap the nozzles in. it only has to be like a 3/4" wide round pipe so the nozzles have something to bite into. just cut a section of a pipe you have laying around if you have some. it would be hidden inside the tube so it wont be seen. here's how it looks on a stock tube. it still works good this way, so no biggie if you dont have an intake yet and you can do it this way until you get an intake with a metal tube. when i decided to spray this strat, i didnt have a proper air intake and had to get one specially made from weapon r, and even then i had to modify it to except the nozzles by welding a plate as close to the throttle body i could as you can see in the other pics up top. everthing i had for this whip was customed made since no aftermarket for it at all.. seriously.... but anyway heres how it would look on a stock airbox with the plastic tubing going to the throttle body.






heres the wet kit i used for this car... its was a standard compucar kit for a 5.0 mustang that i modified accordingly for my stratty, since my buddy Eddie Salvo owns that company he throws me stuff for free all the time for stupid little projects to pass the time like spraying a 4door strat, so we decided to throw in a kit. on my stratus for fun. and hey it dynoed just under 250whp on a 125shot.. which is in you hemi boys actual whp territory, suckers! LOL now on my real racers i use other kits of mixed parts and pieces that we here at ARC manufacuter.



a wet kit the best choice for fuel injected cars and dry kits are better for carbed engines. so your gonna wanna get a wet kit. which sprays both nitrous and gasoline into the intake and through the throttle body. you will have two separate nozzles spraying both at the same time when you activate the nitrous system so you gotta wire the solenoids correctly because if you spray one without the other you will either bog from to much fuel, or detonate from being to lean...

your gonna wanna add a 1step cooler plug for every 75-100 shot you use. so a 150shot or more your gonna want a 2step colder plug.. and never spray platinum plugs, never ever... the electrode is to big and can cause pre-detonation since it will retain heat longer. and i say to spray no more than 8seconds due to all the heat and friction it will create. its basically like a crack injection in short... and NO a throttle switch alone will simply not "know" when to stop spraying without a window switch or programmer or a n2o controller or sorts.. it will keep spraying as long as you have your foot to the floor... this again is why i prefer a button switch method so i can control it all, when i want and only when i want... so with you using only a WOT throttle switch and your system is armed and you mash the gas, it will keep spraying until you let off the gas..... and nitrous is meant to get you up to speed and thats it.. its not like in the movies man... not meant for use at high speeds, its meant for slow rolls or from a dig to a higher speed quickly as possible... now when you get into 2stages or more, you can use it at higher speeds. but it gets a little more tricky and a lot more technical and i dont suggest you going with different stages unless your a pro like myself. i have several whips as track cars and some have 3stages even.

so essentially, you only wanna use it from a dig or slow roll. a throttle switch is really only good for beginners so you dont accidentally spray without being under wide open throttle and the cars ecu in OPEN LOOP. i myself prefer to button method to control the flow myself. any more questions, just ask away and i wil explain more in depth.... oh and only spray with 93octane or higher in the tanks and the bottle pressure at atleast 900psi

and sorry i dont have any install pics of my chargers system on this computer, but i can take some if you like me too. i actually removed most of it because we are gonna switch it up this time and go the turbo route this time around on my new daily charger.. we like to play around with our daily drivers just for fun. to pass the time in between projects basically to keep our minds full of ideas and creativity.
so be on the lookout for when my turbos will be completed. all of my forged internals we had custom made have been already made from wiseco and we have received them and now im just waiting on my guys to figure out the best possible answers to our equations for this model since its basically still brand new.

but heres a pic of my chargers trunk. system is unhooked though.. heres my dual bottles and of course with our custom billet brackets we manufacture. these are the unheated kinds thus the wrap around heater you see on one bottle.... we do manufacture single and duals billet brackets, heated and non heated as well. with heaters built in or just the regular wrap around kinds.



 

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djfiddy said:
I just got a couple more questions, First off u said something about not using it for more than 8 seconds? What about if i were to run on a 1/4 mile drag strip? Is the throttle switch smart enough to kno when to switch off and such?

what charger do u have?
NO-- just a throttle switch by itself will not know when to stop to the flow. all a throttle switch does is allow the nitrous to flow once your throttle bodies butterfly valve is atleast 3/4 of the way open...... you would need to get a window switch and a controller to set it when to spray and when to stop the spray and to your desired parameters, like to stop the flow in-between auto shifts and all at and all those kinds of things need to be taken into consideration brotha... its not a toy, but more of a tool..... nitrous is tricky if you dont understand it. i suggest you read up on it, then read up on it a few more time before you just go out and buy yourself a kit.... its just as safe as any of kind of boost.. you just gotta know how to use it properly...

anymore questions, just ask away



OH AND ANOTHER THING...... i don not suggest loading a pre-set diablo tune when using nitrous as those tunes are already leaning out your parameters.... like weaning oxygen from fire to make the fire work harder.. starving it of oxygen basically and fire needs oxygen to survive.. take a little away and it will work harder to try to find more... so your gonna wanna get a nitrous tune if any tune at all.... or unloaded the pre-set tunes from teh diablo for when your spraying and then reloading the tune for when your not spraying so you can still get the benefits of the diablo system if you have one.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
NO-- just a throttle switch by itself will not know when to stop to the flow. all a throttle switch does is allow the nitrous to flow once your throttle bodies butterfly valve is atleast 3/4 of the way open...... you would need to get a window switch and a controller to set it when to spray and when to stop the spray and to your desired parameters, like to stop the flow in-between auto shifts and all at and all those kinds of things need to be taken into consideration brotha... its not a toy, but more of a tool..... nitrous is tricky if you dont understand it. i suggest you read up on it, then read up on it a few more time before you just go out and buy yourself a kit.... its just as safe as any of kind of boost.. you just gotta know how to use it properly...

anymore questions, just ask away



OH AND ANOTHER THING...... i don not suggest loading a pre-set diablo tune when using nitrous as those tunes are already leaning out your parameters.... like weaning oxygen from fire to make the fire work harder.. starving it of oxygen basically and fire needs oxygen to survive.. take a little away and it will work harder to try to find more... so your gonna wanna get a nitrous tune if any tune at all.... or unloaded the pre-set tunes from teh diablo for when your spraying and then reloading the tune for when your not spraying so you can still get the benefits of the diablo system if you have one.....
I dont have one yet, but if i plan on gettin NOS then i dont think ill need it lol....is 1K for install and setup and everything a good deal? some place told me they could get all the tubing and everything for a 50 shot set up
 

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sure, what nitrous does is allow the gasoline to atomize better on a molecular scale for overall better combustion... i think thats the easiest way to put it.. it allows every molecule to be burned instantly and also drops air temps dramatically for denser colder air in the combustion chambers and thus it creates instant boost.....

glad i could help... and like i said that kit on my strat is a very basic kit.. i thought that would be what the OP would like to see since thats more than likely what he would be getting into.. i would be more than glad to show you more techincal staged installs in my other cars, but im sure you wouldnt understand everything right off hand and i would have to actually paint or draw circles around things as i explain them in detail and what they do.........


and yes, about a grand installed for a basic kit is about right.... you could actually install most yourself and just have a pro wire up your switches and solenoids in series.... wire them up wrong and your done when you arm and spray it. both nitrous and fuel solenoids need to open at the same time, always.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
sure, what nitrous does is allow the gasoline to atomize better on a molecular scale for overall better combustion... i think thats the easiest way to put it.. it allows every molecule to be burned instantly and also drops air temps dramatically for denser colder air in the combustion chambers and thus it creates instant boost.....

glad i could help... and like i said that kit on my strat is a very basic kit.. i thought that would be what the OP would like to see since thats more than likely what he would be getting into.. i would be more than glad to show you more techincal staged installs in my other cars, but im sure you wouldnt understand everything right off hand and i would have to actually paint or draw circles around things as i explain them in detail and what they do.........


and yes, about a grand installed for a basic kit is about right.... you could actually install most yourself and just have a pro wire up your switches and solenoids in series.... wire them up wrong and your done when you arm and spray it. both nitrous and fuel solenoids need to open at the same time, always.....
Okay, how much approx. would it cost if i got one that i could use at higher speeds? also are those more dangerous?

Thanks for all the info
 

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changing gear ratios is the cheapest simplest way of getting good use out of nitrous at high speeds......
 

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well like i said a basic wet kit with purge addition and completlely installed and even a full bottle of nitrous to start off with is right around a grand i would assume depending on what brand you go with.... if you go with a good well known name brand kit, expect to pay anywhere from 400-760 for just the kit, and then about another 500 for install.... if your close to me then i would hook you up, but im not a paying vendor here on this site, so i technically cant quote you a price in this thread.. you could just PM though or just give me a call by finding my shops phone number with some basic net searching skills.... and in all reality most kits are gonna do the same thing for teh most part on a basic set up.. to deliver nitrous and fuel into teh intake. the big price differences come from of course the brand name that you pay for and the overall look of the components included... me, i dotn really care how pretty it is as i use it, not to just look at it or just to have it and brag about--LOL i get actual use out of mines and could care less how pretty my fittings and bottles are and all that, well unless its on one of my show cars.... i have plenty of cars for both shows and the tracks. and of course my daily driver--which happens to be my charger at the moment.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay thats cool man, yea i live in Canada so im sure im not too close haha. And im still thinking i might get an R/t next year...maybe nos that...still have to save up a few bucks too first :p
 

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well whatever you choose to do, just be smart and just boost in moderation... now if you really wanna go slap happy, just forge your current motor and you could essentially blow rt's off the road with spray.. but nitrous isnt constant and only last as long as your bottle will allow as it will drain, and with big jets or pillsizes for big boy shots, the bottles will drain rather quickly, even with dual bottles..... i typically get about 10-12, 8second sprays with a purge here and there to clear teh lines out of a single 10lb bottle.. which means it holds 10lbs of nitrous... not 10lbs total... i think a 10lb bottle weighs in right around 14lb empty, and of course 24full.....
 
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