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Just got my 2015 Dodge CHarger 4/18/2015

SXT AWD plus, Rallye power sunroof,:grin2:

So far so good. uestion I have is regards to the transmission and mileage. Is it a "Breakin In" period with regards to the transmission response and the low mpg Im seeing on the display( 12mpg).Im comming from the 2005 acura tl 6speed manual vtec 3.2 v6.
 

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Welcome. In regards to the gas mileage, if you leave the car running while "showing her off" which we all do with a new car, it will seriously decrease your mileage on the evic screen. Excessive in town stop and start, or heavy foot driving will decrease it. I can't speak for the 2015 models, if they're different at all from the prior model, but I have the 2013 SXT AWD with the 8 speed, and I have never gotten below 20 mpg in town driving. Summertime I average 25.5 mpg with 80% city 20% highway. In the winter months (Nov-March) the AWD is almost always kicked in and the winter blend fuel is worse on mileage, so I average 21 mpg. Don't think that there is any real "break-In" period that would cause you to see 12 mpg. That is just not right..... unless you are doing most of the above things I mentioned. Even so, that still is extremely poor mileage for a V6. For an SRT....... that would be pretty good!! LOL
 
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Just got my 2015 Dodge CHarger 4/18/2015

SXT AWD plus, Rallye power sunroof,:grin2:

So far so good. uestion I have is regards to the transmission and mileage. Is it a "Breakin In" period with regards to the transmission response and the low mpg Im seeing on the display( 12mpg).Im comming from the 2005 acura tl 6speed manual vtec 3.2 v6.
Welcome to the forums and to the obsession!:rocker:

Actually, there is a break-in period for most of the car, not just the transmission.

Engine oil should be done within the first 800 to 2000 miles.

The differential fluid should be changed after break-in at around 3,500 to 5000 miles.

Coolant should be switched out by 10,000 miles

The transmission fluid should be changed at 45k to 55 k miles.

This will ensure that everything broke in correctly.

Obviously we recommend getting ACES IV in the engine as soon as possible via the gasoline tank. 1 oz per 6 gallons to protect against ring and bore wear/stem and guide wear.

The other fluids we can custom design and provide you so that you get the most out of your new car. QuantumBlue Engine Oil changes are in the 10k to 12k mile range

QuantumBlue 75w125 HP Competition Formula Differential Fluid can be changed after initial flush every 50k miles

QB HP Gold Coolant is good for 5 years or 150,000 miles....without any sodium or sulfates in it.:bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Coolant should be switched out by 10,000 miles
I've never heard of a break-in period for coolant. Chrysler claims 10 years/240,000 km, why would it need to be changed by 10,000 miles?

The other fluids you mentioned, I can sort of see, but cars are built to better tolerances than in the "old days"; there's not nearly as much flash or debris in mechanical systems as there used to be. A number of my cars went > 100,000 kilometers before the differential fluid was changed, for example, with no sign of deterioration in the rear when it was changed. Better safe than sorry, of course, but doing changes significantly more frequently than the manfuacturer recommends seems like a waste of time/money/effort.
 
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Sell, sell sell!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I've never heard of a break-in period for coolant. Chrysler claims 10 years/240,000 km, why would it need to be changed by 10,000 miles?

Ok, understand that the coolant in your car today is an OAT type coolant - Purple color. OAT stands for Organic Additive Technology. It really should read Organic sodium silicate, sodium tetraborate and sodium benzoate + sulfate additive technology. They also contain acids as well.



We have seen many cars with the IAT, OAT and HOAT coolants that produce scale in the radiator and deposits/sediment in the engine blocks and heads.





Because of the deposits, we designed a coolant that has NO sodium, sulfates or sinterable contents to plate out in your cooling system. Mopar and others keep changing around their formulas every few years to distance themselves from these problems.

This is why we designed our own without any of these components. 5 years or 150,000 miles with our QuantumBlue HP Gold provides a better evaporation of heat (and you know these engines all get HOT) no deposits at all and cooling system protection that no other coolants can achieve!




The other fluids you mentioned, I can sort of see, but cars are built to better tolerances than in the "old days"; there's not nearly as much flash or debris in mechanical systems as there used to be.

Actually you are partly right and partly incorrect here. While the metallurgy that we have today is better, the lubricants that are put in for fuel economy and emissions are not better....actually considerably worse.

Here is an example of our SRT8 differential at 8,000 miles:







Many 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 cars have had their differential fluids changed and admitted that the fluid coming out looked virtually identical.

We have engines going 22,548 km, 26,715 and 29,338 km on ONE oil change and no wear! Transmissions that shift much smoother and have much less wear when the pan is pulled back down for inspection. Do it right early so that you don't have to lament not doing it soon enough. Growling/howling differentials noisy steering, Hemi tick etc. My wife's last 3.6L DOHC Pentastar oil change was 24,071 km and no wear.



A number of my cars went > 100,000 kilometers before the differential fluid was changed, for example, with no sign of deterioration in the rear when it was changed. Better safe than sorry, of course, but doing changes significantly more frequently than the manfuacturer recommends seems like a waste of time/money/effort.
While I understand the dichotomy you present above, remember that the lubricants and fuels that you got even 3 years ago are significantly different and they will continue to be "refined" to thinner and less robust formulates to put in your car.

The new ILSAC GF-6 and API-SP oils will be a 0w8 and a 0w16. Probably won't see them till 2016 or 2017 but they are coming.

We and our customers refuse to participate in the race to less contents and instead choose to manufacture and provide head and shoulders quality above what comes off the shelf.

Look at the roll call. It tells you what our over 12,000 + customers think...switching from off the shelf to BND.:beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Your MPG will improve after about 2-3k as things lossen up.

Completely ignore Brian, he posts regularly to sell you oils he will never run head-to-head with off the shelf. Think snake oil salesman, with all these odd ideas about things.

He has an open offer to send me his oils and I will pay for the testing to compare to others on the same motor.

Only thing you should do if you're anal, change your oil within 500 miles and then follow the standard intervals.
 

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Don't worry about Rob-2

He always tries to dissuade people from using our products. He is one of the few lone voices that have NEVER USED OUR PRODUCTS and yet sais they are no good or not worth the money!

12,000+ Customers tell the real story.....why.....because they all came from using Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, Mobil 1, Pennzoil SRT oil, NAPA Synthetic etc, etc, etc...... and then tried the QuantumBlue materials and after comparing them and us decided to switch to us permanently purchasing ACES IV and our lubricants over and over and over again.

By the way, it is not just on the Charger forums:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forum...-dif-trans-coolant-fluids-358466/#post4922586

This is the bane of supporting the forums with the amount of money we have to spend to be here as a vendor! It makes you suspect from the get go because you offer something for sale. Wonder why we keep loosing vendors....Hmmm.;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Your MPG will improve after about 2-3k as things lossen up.

Completely ignore Brian, he posts regularly to sell you oils he will never run head-to-head with off the shelf. Think snake oil salesman, with all these odd ideas about things.

He has an open offer to send me his oils and I will pay for the testing to compare to others on the same motor.

Only thing you should do if you're anal, change your oil within 500 miles and then follow the standard intervals.
I will take your challenge any time, but it will be under my terms....not yours.

18,000 miles of driving on your oil and then 18,000 miles on our oils with using ACES IV. ALS is the laboratory that does the evaluation...NOT Blackstone or Polaris!

Those are the conditions.:serious:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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I will take your challenge any time, but it will be under my terms....not yours.

18,000 miles of driving on your oil and then 18,000 miles on our oils with using ACES IV. ALS is the laboratory that does the evaluation...NOT Blackstone or Polaris!

Those are the conditions.:serious:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com[/QUOTE

Ding ding ding.......Looks like the gloves are off, the challenge has been made, and now needs to be accepted. Heck, who needs the Floyd Mayweather vs. Manny Pacquiao fight when this is right in our back yard!!!! :beerchug:
 
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I will take your challenge any time, but it will be under my terms....not yours.

18,000 miles of driving on your oil and then 18,000 miles on our oils with using ACES IV. ALS is the laboratory that does the evaluation...NOT Blackstone or Polaris!

Those are the conditions.:serious:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
I typically wouldn't run 18k on any oil I track a car with. 18k of driving would be almost 2 years, and I do 5-7 track events/year. It sounds like you’re suggesting your oil is only good for 18k of street driving.

So here's the deal. We can do this one of two ways.

1. We change the oil on a reasonable track minded schedule and test back to back, I pay for said testing, my oil and you provide your oil and whatever filter you want me to run. Less than 5k of street driving I'll do a track event, change oil and send out for testing. More than 5k of street I'll put fresh oil in prior to event and track. I'll then run until 6.5k or next track event. I'll run your oil like this for a total of 18k on the OD and then switch to either Redline or Amsoil. Or if you want we can switch off oils every oil change. I'll do everything reasonable to keep mileage consistant between events, but hey LIFE might happen.

2. I run 18k miles, no oil changes for track events, and I top up as needed with your oil. What's different, is you sign a personal guarantee with rights to go after your biz and personal assets so that if my motor fails, looses compression, begins to burn oil or has excessive metal due to your strict requirement to run 18k on a car that is tracked, you buy me a new motor. Not a rebuild, a new 392 full block from Dodge, plus the labor cost to swap out the motors. You can pick up the old block at your expense to inspect.

Condition of Car & Use
My car is 6 months old with 8k on the clock now and stock. I'm putting up a $55k car here, plus thousands of dollars in track time and risking the headaches of following your methodology. If we go with option #2 I risk losing my 7year 85k warranty for failure to follow Dodge's service schedule.

My motor is fully broken in, consumes very little oil in 6.5k oil change and consumed a regular amount at the track. I track my cars on road courses, not drag strips. I do single and multi day events. My car is also taken on very hard mountain runs where for 3-5 hours the motor is pushed reasonably hard for street driving (5-6/10), sees high revs, oil temps pushing 260 on the street and .7-.8 lateral G's. On the track I push the car 8/10ths and exceed the g meter build into the car.

Testing & Reporting
BND will pay for a compression test by my local dealership, which I will report on for the baseline condition of the car. If requested, I will pay for a dyno run of my car as a baseline. A compression test and dyno run will again be performed after each oil is thoroughly tested. If #1 option Brian and Rob will agree to when this happens as not to be cost prohibitive with 5-7k oil change.

I will start a thread that documents this over the course of this test. We will start with BND oil since the season is underway. I will provide pictures, and test results. I will document any problems caused during this test, and pictures of the internals of filters etc.

Testing will be done at two facilities. One of your choosing and one of mine. Results from both will be posted online. The cost of these tests will be paid for by me.

Service will be done by my local Dodge dealership. Any regular service will be reported on and paid for by me.

A log of driving events, mileage and oil changes will be documented in an excel sheet. Regular OD readings will be taken; information from the onboard temp gauge will be logged.

If during the course of the testing oil pressure drops dangerously low (as determined by SRT) and on BND oil. Test will be paused until cause is determined. BND will pay for oil change, testing and inspection by Dodge before testing resumes. If on OTS oil I will cover the cost of such inspection.

Oils
BND will provide agreed to oil quantity and filter in the same formulation for the course of this test.

Rob will provide Amsoil or Redline (whichever is agreed to) and MOPAR filter for the course of this test in the factory weight of 0w40.

Outcome:
If your oil holds up better than the Redline or Amsoil OTS oil, I will switch to purchasing your oil, make an apology on this forum and add to my signature a link to the thread outlining how your oil beat the other oils. You may also add a link on your website, use my results in marketing materials and request 1-3 interviews radio or video where I explain how I was converted to your product from a position of disbelief. I will add two decals up to 4x10 inches to the window of my car to promote your product.

If your oil doesn't outperform Redline or Amsoil OTS oil, you stop posting your sales pitch content on this site, you make a public apology, you place a link in your signature and on your website to the thread showing how your oil did not perform better then the following oils.

If running your oil in these conditions (#2 option 18K no oil change) causes the replacement of the motor, you pay for all costs to replace, transport and provide me a rental car during the work. Work will be performed by my local Dodge dealership.

You waive all claims of damages against myself, my family, my business, etc for the results of these tests, impact to your business, brand, ability to earn an income etc.

Final Thoughts
Brain, this is how the testing will be done. It’ll be balanced and reasonable. Financial exposure to both of us, with the greatest risk to myself. I’m putting up the expensive car, paying for events, paying for testing, doing the oil changes etc. You are risking your company’s reputation, about $10-12k if the motor fails and the cost of the oil.

An alternative, is you lend to me your car for said testing and I will do this. This would limit your potential costs. I will treat it as my own, we could have an agreement in place to cover you but we'd be risking your asset not mine. I'd fly out there to pick up the car, and drive it back. I would run one way on your oil and one way on mine so we could compare both track, street and long distance driving.

While I'm firm with you online, largely because of your pitchiness I am a fair and reasonable guy. I consider this to be a fair and reasonable experiment/test of your product against others.
 

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Just got my 2015 Dodge CHarger 4/18/2015

SXT AWD plus, Rallye power sunroof,:grin2:

So far so good. uestion I have is regards to the transmission and mileage. Is it a "Breakin In" period with regards to the transmission response and the low mpg Im seeing on the display( 12mpg).Im comming from the 2005 acura tl 6speed manual vtec 3.2 v6.
Hi newcharger1906,

First off, welcome to the forum! Your Charger looks great! Regarding a break-in period, here is the recommendation from pages 93-94 of your Owner’s Manual:

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS

A long break-in period is not required for the drivetrain
(engine, transmission, clutch, and rear axle) in your new
vehicle.

Drive moderately during the first 300 mi (500 km). After
the initial 60 mi (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80
or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
However, wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can
be detrimental and should be avoided.

The engine oil, transmission fluid, and axle lubricant
installed at the factory is high-quality and energyconserving.
Oil, fluid, and lubricant changes should be
consistent with anticipated climate and conditions under
which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended
viscosity and quality grades, refer to “Maintenance
Procedures” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle.”

NOTE: A new engine may consume some oil during its
first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This
should be considered a normal part of the break-in and
not interpreted as an indication of difficulty. Please check
your oil level with the engine oil indicator often during
the break in period. Add oil as required.
 

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18,000 miles of driving on your oil and then 18,000 miles on our oils with using ACES IV. ALS is the laboratory that does the evaluation...NOT Blackstone or Polaris!
Rob2 (and Brian),

I think it might be better to conduct such a test on pure street driving, rather than some street/some track, no? I think you'd have a more controlled experiment that way, not to mention less risk to the car...

Such a test would also help folks like the OP who are concerned with break-in and real-world (i.e. normal driving) conditions and fluid longevity.

BTW I don't think I could bring myself to run any oil for 18,000 miles, even if it were lab-proven to be okay at the end of it all LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
hi everyone
My 2015 dodge charger sxt awd has a defogging issue. It was raining heavy today. I followed the manual recommendations (turn off the recirculating button). and turn on the defroster. but the windows fog up again. Does anyone have this issue.
 

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Do you have the ac on? If you do it might be getting condensation from the window getting to cold. Once the window clears run it on the regular setting through the vents but make sure the AC is on or heat for the winter for the defroster.
 

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How is your mileage now? Make sure you run it in RWD when you don't need the AWD. You can reset the average by holding the OK button when your on the highway to start a little higher to get a true average.
 
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