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This is really ironic considering what your screen name is ......
 

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Discussion Starter #25
lol what are you going to do? Chase me? The 5.7 is sitting.................oh wait.....the honda :D


If you need a jump ill be your way in about 2 hours.
**** u got a 3.5 I might as well run and catch u lol. I am working on getting a charger so I can start it tomorrow
 

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**** u got a 3.5 I might as well run and catch u lol. I am working on getting a charger so I can start it tomorrow
You're working on getting a charger for the Charger's battery which is not charging properly .... all while your screen name is fully charged and your Charger isn't ... :knockout:











(I know, I'm cracking myself up ... :slap: :))
 

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the alternator does charge the batt, but if the batt has a bad cell then no....the batterys avg 12.6 voltsdc and when the car is running 13.9-14voltsdc thats also how you will know if the alternator is charging the batt........just buy a battery tender when you get a new battery!!!
a, no.
The alternator does whatever the stink the pcm tells it to. It only runs at that voltage running because thats what the pcm determines it should run based on loads. While it runs at 13.9 it is not charging the battery nor are these batteries a deep cycle style cell design that is correct for drainage and recharging. Recharging boils the fluid inside turning it into a vapor at high temps and actually dropping its capacity with each charge.
Telling the o.p. to get a tender is going to do nothing but hurt the battery and reduce its life cycle but continously charging, and losing sulfuric acid each time through the shell.
Also telling steve he's wrong about an alternator is when he knows more about alternators , their purpose, their limits , and expectations then anyone on the forum is also a joke

How many people here have ever installed an alternator?
how many of you have seen the card inside the box that says in big bold print, "this alternator is not a battery charger"?
How many people believe moparmike is once again blowing chit out his brass?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
now gentlemen I didnt want us to argue I just wanted some advice on what to do next.
 

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you need to put your battery on a slow 2-6 amp charge for several hours. fast charge will not bring the cca up only the voltage. You need to test the battery afterwards with a vat 40 or micro 490. dont just use a voltmeter because voltmeters are worthless without adding a load to the battery and checking its reserve capacity. Most parts stores will do this for you for free if you dont have access
 

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Discussion Starter #34
ty all for your help
 

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a, no.
While it runs at 13.9 it is not charging the battery....
How many people here have ever installed an alternator?
how many of you have seen the card inside the box that says in big bold print, "this alternator is not a battery charger"?
How many people believe moparmike is once again blowing chit out his brass?
Could you tell me what DOES charge the battery if it is not the alternator?

Yes, I have installed several alternators and a few generators (if you know the difference).

The card in the alternator box does not mean what you think it means. It is telling the buyer that it will not work as a charger without being properly hooked up in the vehicle's electrical system. It needs "field" voltage to excite the coils inside before any output voltage will be generated.

Moparmike is correct on this one as well. Lead-acid batteries are charged using the "constant voltage" method. That is why the alternator holds the system at 13.8 to 14.0 volts when the car is running. That runs all the electrical stuff AND recharges the battery. With any partially charged battery, it takes a long time to build it back up to full capacity. A 10 min trip may not peak the battery up but a 2 hr trip should. Haven't you noticed when you put a weak battery on a charger the ammeter maxes out? That's because the charging voltage is held at 13.8 volts so the weak battery will be pulling in all the current it can form the supply. As the battery's voltage approaches the charging voltage, the current draw from the supply becomes less (the ammeter will drop towards zero). Charging will eventually become a trickle charge to maintain the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
well just put her on the charger and will ck it when I get home from work tomorrow
 

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the alternator does charge the batt, but if the batt has a bad cell then no....the batterys avg 12.6 voltsdc and when the car is running 13.9-14voltsdc thats also how you will know if the alternator is charging the batt........just buy a battery tender when you get a new battery!!!
if your battery level is at [lets say 11.00] driving it around will not get the battery back to to 12.50 were it needs to be. the alternator will only maintain to MAYBE a hair over that level. TO the OP with the problem-charger the battery on a slow trickle charger-then pull the fuse like wicked says.
 

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now gentlemen I didnt want us to argue I just wanted some advice on what to do next.
I connected a "smart" charger to my battery when I stored it for the winter.... did the same thing when I was going to leave it for a few weeks too. there are many things that take milliamps from your battery when you car is idle( not running), specifically HAL. So, to keep him juiced....invest in a smart charger and you shouldn't have any more problems.
 

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I only use my car in winter every 10 days -2 weeks, and it sits outside. But, they are correct, just starting and idling will make it worse. I always drive mine at least 20 miles or so, to let the alternator do its thing.

Of course now, I've probably jinxed myself - by the time it gets driven this weekend, it will have sat for 2 weeks.
 
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