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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
13 pursuit. So brakes worked fine prior to a panic stop.
No visible leaks, no abs related codes. Pedal goes further down than it used to. Doesn't stop as well either.
Pics were cause of panic stop. Other driver didn't look, pulled out and hit me in the side.
Thinking of flushing the fluid, any other ideas?


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When was the last time the brakes were changed? Take them apart and grease all the caliper slide pins. I had the pins in the rear get stuck on my 2006.

With the pedal feel it could be more of a fluid or master cylinder issue also check the brake lines for any issues/bulging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's a good point. It did sit for awhile before I bought it, then it has sat for awhile here and there after I bought it, due to field training.
Come to think of it, I haven't even had the wheels off yet. I'll pull it all apart, then clean and grease everything. That'll give me a good view of the pads and brake hoses as well.
Planning to pick up some replacement doors Friday.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Everything with the brakes looked fine. After a bit of driving it goes away.
But if there's a abs or esp condition, the same comes back.
I did recheck codes and do have a C212A-17 and C2101-17.
I also have a battery draw that will keep it from starting after sitting about a week. Just usually isn't a issue as I drive it to work everyday. But I'm wondering if they could be related.
I'll probably look into the drain this weekend.

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C2101-17-BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH - CIRCUIT VOLTAGE ABOVE THRESHOLD
Set Condition:
If the ignition voltage is above 18V or if the ignition voltage is above 16.5V with vehicle speed greater than 4 mph.

C212A-17-SYSTEM VOLTAGE HIGH - CIRCUIT VOLTAGE ABOVE THRESHOLD
Set Condition:
The ABS Module has detected a high voltage system error and the Body Control Module (BCM) also indicates a high voltage condition.

The charging system may be over compensating for the battery drain. Check the charging system and the battery along with the ignition-off-draw problem.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks.
I'll have a look.
Had to buy a new DVOM.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did a little poking. I used 2 different meters. Looks like I have 1 amp or .1 mA draw depending which meter I used.
I'm going to get a clamp on amp meter to verify. Actually maybe even a IR temp camera.
The process I used was hooking the meter up before disconnecting the battery.
I did check over the fuses for voltage drop, but since half or more are the cartridge style, I would say I didn't get everything checked.
Just to possibly verify, would .03 be about the right voltage drop on the fuse for the underhood light?
I have a fluke meter I need to dig out, but I know I need new leads for it.

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Looks like I have 1 amp or .1 mA draw depending which meter I used.
That's a big difference.
From the 2013 Service Manual ...
A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules; which may vary depending on optional vehicle equipment.

would .03 be about the right voltage drop on the fuse for the underhood light?
The IOD (ignition-off draw) test in the Service manual does not list the IOD value for the underhood light. What it does say when performing the IOD Test ...
Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.

Also, prior to performing the IOD Test ...
Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to ten minutes.

After 10 minutes the low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the input.
I think I trust the .1 mA reading over the other meter. The 1.1 came from a cheapy, using it's own 10A setting. So really I don't know what kind of value that was.
Good to know that I can just use the pull and replace method. From my understanding, when doing that it can sometimes wake up module's.
Also good to know the timeout is 10 minutes. I waited well over 1 hour.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did some quick looking before getting the kids into bed.
First meter I bought only did ac current.
Next one is a this model 400A AC/DC TRMS TightSight® Clamp Meter probably not the most accurate for this, but what I had easily available to purchase.
So with it on the ground side, I was getting .04 amps. Then I tried Adjust the range (as it automatically goes into auto ranging) then it when up to roughly 1.4.
I moved it over to the positive side to compare and came up with the same. I then released the truck latch, which woke up the car and went to 3.6. So I would say that it'll work well enough for what I need.
When I have the time I will start pulling fuses.
Again, takes about a week to drain it.
There's nothing police related still installed. (Besides the spot light)

Also, do you have the service manual downloaded? Or are you working off a paid membership? (Deciding if I need to buy, or if someone has a copy)

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There's nothing police related still installed.
Check the wiring harness/connectors of the uninstalled police equipment. Sometimes they're careful when they remove the equipment and sometimes they're not.
do you have the service manual downloaded?
I bought mine from eBay but you can also get them from Mopar Tech Authority; which has a better selection.
Buy Mopar Approved Service Information
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll look it over again. The upfitter plugs under the console have nothing hooked up. I Disconnected everything from the underhood harness, have it taped and tied up.
The VSIM is still plugged in though. Maybe I'll pull it out for testing.

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