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2014 Dodge Charger Pursuit AWD 5.7 V8
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So after a couple hours of installing a proper muffler delete, I started the car and it was pretty disappointing. It does sound pretty good when you blip the throttle, and under load, but its like a tube sort of sound. I still have the massive resonators that go up inside the bumper in place, which are the problem. Was thinking maybe to get something like the circular hellcat or scatpack resonators that are pretty small and are straight through. Problem is all resonators I see are just universal and do not have hangers, and are expensive, this car isnt worth putting 1k exhaust parts on, at most $300 would be acceptable..

Anyone know of a good axleback type exhaust that fits the 2014 pursuit 5.7 and just replaces the resonators with free flowing ones besides just straight piping them. I assume its same as R/T, but I do recall that the stock resonators do not come off on both sides so I probably will need to cut them.

Also I screwed up and blasted one of the rear crossmember nuts with full torque using my cordless impact gun when putting it back on and sheared one of the bolts off, of which are built into the body it appears, 3 remain on though. Should I bother trying to fix this?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
At this point Il take any good resonator and weld it, il just take the old hangers off, I just wanna know what people have tested to work but still give sound and not allow the horrible drone I had when i removed everything.
 

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I've never tried this in combination with a muffler delete, but why don't you try modding your resonators?

You can either drill a tiny (start with 1/16") hole in the Hemholtz chamber of each resonator, or a larger one (3/8" or so) up into the last chamber and through both sides of the exit pipe.

Just start out small and keep going until you've got the sound where you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I've never tried this in combination with a muffler delete, but why don't you try modding your resonators?

You can either drill a tiny (start with 1/16") hole in the Hemholtz chamber of each resonator, or a larger one (3/8" or so) up into the last chamber and through both sides of the exit pipe.

Just start out small and keep going until you've got the sound where you want it.
Interesting, but do the resonator casing split apart nicely or do i have to cut and reweld the a square from it?

I really wish there was some nice weld in resonator that works for this engine, id really like to keep the originals intact otherwise.
 

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You don't split anything apart, you're just drilling holes. Either into the Hemholtz chamber to "tune" it, or into the last chamber and through the exit pipe for a small bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You don't split anything apart, you're just drilling holes. Either into the Hemholtz chamber to "tune" it, or into the last chamber and through the exit pipe for a small bypass.
I thought that internal pipe with the small holes in it was the chamber you were referring to. So you mean drill holes in the outer shell of the resonator? Or put a drill into the pipe and put a hole.
 

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There are two mods I mentioned. One is to drill a very small hole up through the resonator shell and into the first or Hemholtz chamber. That would be a very small hole only through the outer shell, but it would affect the resonator's tuning. The second would be to drill up through the resonator shell into the last chamber, and into both sides of the exit pipe (or tail pipe). For that mod, you have the choice to leave the hole in the shell open for more sound, or close it with a button plug and high-temp RTV.

This thread by Drex on our sister site will give you the background.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
There are two mods I mentioned. One is to drill a very small hole up through the resonator shell and into the first or Hemholtz chamber. That would be a very small hole only through the outer shell, but it would affect the resonator's tuning. The second would be to drill up through the resonator shell into the last chamber, and into both sides of the exit pipe (or tail pipe). For that mod, you have the choice to leave the hole in the shell open for more sound, or close it with a button plug and high-temp RTV.

This thread by Drex on our sister site will give you the background.
Oh ok, so the goal is to drill at least one of the inner chambers, then recap the outer casing. I would like to try drilling the exit pipe, I assume this is the pipe I can see into
 

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Oh ok, so the goal is to drill at least one of the inner chambers, then recap the outer casing. I would like to try drilling the exit pipe, I assume this is the pipe I can see into
For the second mod, yes. Did you check out the link?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For the second mod, yes. Did you check out the link?
I did, I saw a cutaway of the corvette resonator, but am still not quite sure where to drill. It seems rear chamber is referring to the u part of the non perforated pipe, and they are saying drill all the way through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
If this photo is correct, I believe I should drill into that U part of the piping, at least for the second mod you mentioned.
 

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No, sir. Take another look at the linked thread, post #49 specifically. All the photos you need are there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, sir. Take another look at the linked thread, post #49 specifically. All the photos you need are there.
I saw those last few, they have drilled near the end of the exit, and put a plate in. But they said it didnt work, but they apparently have different resonators. Mine being auto means it has the correct ones, so where they drilled would be correct for mine?
 

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Different guy with different resonators. His car is a manual and his resonators are not chambered.

I don't know how else to say it; read post #49, by Drex, and view his pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Check it out, good pics and clear instructions.
I did a 1/2 inch hole at an angle through each and sealed it, did add a bit of the lower end gurgle at idle which I like, was a pain to do though and broke my 3/16 bit. Likely going to add many more of them. Used a couple of those 1/2 inch metal hole plugs with the little legs all around plus some jb weld steel stick all over them to plug the holes. Thanks for the help. Also a note to others, the muffler delete in combo with this probably is a bit much for some, its pretty messy sounding, but I like it.
 

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I did a 1/2 inch hole at an angle through each and sealed it, did add a bit of the lower end gurgle at idle which I like, was a pain to do though and broke my only 3/16 bit. Likely going to add many more of them. Used a couple of those 1/2 inch metal hole plugs with the little legs all around plus some jb weld steel stick all over them to plug the holes. Thanks for the help. Also a note to others, the muffler delete in combo with this probably is a bit much for some, its pretty messy sounding, but I like it.
Stainless is a bear to drill through, no doubt. I used cobalt bits, started with 1/4" and ended up with 1/2".

Not for anything, but I don't know how many holes you can do in that chamber. I did two on each side, in an X pattern like Drex suggested. I thought about doing a third, but the angle would have to be kind of extreme, and it's already tricky to get a bite on the pipe once you're through the case.

Glad it worked out for you!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: I cut off my resonators just a bit before the hangers. Then used two 2 1/4" couplers and ubolts so they are reattachable. Made it easy to drill the resonators, also made it easy to add the rear valence tips. Reattaching was quite simple
 
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