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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys I have a 2011 RT and I'm looking at a few different mods to get going. I already have a volant CAI, slp lm2 cat back exhaust, and a diablosport trinity tuner. I'm really just looking into what mods to do first and what people have seen with doing these mods themselves. Also the car is not a daily driver but it does go on longer trips every now and then.
1. LT Headers w/ catless mid pipes (JBA Ceramic Coated LT Headers Part#6965SJT)
2. Caming the Charger with the package from HHP Comp Limiter Cam. (whats the difference in 266,270,and 274?) does the package have everything I would need?
3.Changing the gearing, my charger has the 2.65 and i want to upgrade that to at least 3.55 and maybe as far as 3.92. What are my options for this and price range? I have heard just bring it to a shop and have them change the ring and pinion or changing the whole diff for a Getrag LSD Upgrade.
4. I have been told to look into a high stall torque converter but I don't know much in this section.
5. A bigger throttle body but i have heard mix things about that as its not worth the money for the little if any power it will make.
6. A custom tune, I know I would need one for most of the mods listed above so who do you guys recommend, and can they tune out the CEL for the catless mid pipes?
As I said above I'm looking for what I should do first and just some help on the questions for each mod and what you guys think of each one. Thanks in advance guys
 

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Hey guys I have a 2011 RT and I'm looking at a few different mods to get going. I already have a volant CAI, slp lm2 cat back exhaust, and a diablosport trinity tuner. I'm really just looking into what mods to do first and what people have seen with doing these mods themselves. Also the car is not a daily driver but it does go on longer trips every now and then.
1. LT Headers w/ catless mid pipes (JBA Ceramic Coated LT Headers Part#6965SJT)
2. Caming the Charger with the package from HHP Comp Limiter Cam. (whats the difference in 266,270,and 274?) does the package have everything I would need?
3.Changing the gearing, my charger has the 2.65 and i want to upgrade that to at least 3.55 and maybe as far as 3.92. What are my options for this and price range? I have heard just bring it to a shop and have them change the ring and pinion or changing the whole diff for a Getrag LSD Upgrade.
4. I have been told to look into a high stall torque converter but I don't know much in this section.
5. A bigger throttle body but i have heard mix things about that as its not worth the money for the little if any power it will make.
6. A custom tune, I know I would need one for most of the mods listed above so who do you guys recommend, and can they tune out the CEL for the catless mid pipes?
As I said above I'm looking for what I should do first and just some help on the questions for each mod and what you guys think of each one. Thanks in advance guys
1.Go with the LT headers and catless mids if you're going to cam, you'll love it.
2. The numbers represent when you get the power. 270 is mid RPMs while 274 (most common) is higher RPM range.
3. I am putting 3.92s in my R/T but if you are going to be cruising at 75mph or higher get the 3.73s. And I recommend getting the whole unit and upgrade to the SRT axles.
4. Stall will help with your 0-60 and plays great with lower gears.
5. Throttle body is a waste of money, trash that idea cause the stock one gives the most power.
6. A custom tune is REQUIRED with the cam and HIGHLY recommend with the gears to increase shift points and how the tranny shifts. Switching the gears in the computer you can do yourself under the adaptives. Also I go through Johan. There's others out there but he works best with me and he knows his stuff.
P.S. If you take your car on long trips like you mentioned you'll get super low MPG. The cam and gears alone will destroy your fuel economy. And if you do all the mods (excluding throttle body) you will have a car that is pushing around 450 HP to the wheels and blows through the gears faster then you can blink, so expect to get some 275 drag radials or burn your street tires everytime you decide to WOT.
 

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I would definitely do the custom tune. I did a tune on mine and it jumped up 30hp to the wheel. It has been the most noticeable upgrade I have done.
 

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1.Go with the LT headers and catless mids if you're going to cam, you'll love it.
2. The numbers represent when you get the power. 270 is mid RPMs while 274 (most common) is higher RPM range.
3. I am putting 3.92s in my R/T but if you are going to be cruising at 75mph or higher get the 3.73s. And I recommend getting the whole unit and upgrade to the SRT axles.
4. Stall will help with your 0-60 and plays great with lower gears.
5. Throttle body is a waste of money, trash that idea cause the stock one gives the most power.
6. A custom tune is REQUIRED with the cam and HIGHLY recommend with the gears to increase shift points and how the tranny shifts. Switching the gears in the computer you can do yourself under the adaptives. Also I go through Johan. There's others out there but he works best with me and he knows his stuff.
P.S. If you take your car on long trips like you mentioned you'll get super low MPG. The cam and gears alone will destroy your fuel economy. And if you do all the mods (excluding throttle body) you will have a car that is pushing around 450 HP to the wheels and blows through the gears faster then you can blink, so expect to get some 275 drag radials or burn your street tires everytime you decide to WOT.
Don't forget the ACES IV and the QuantumBlue Lubricants like 2fast4u2013 uses in his car!;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Hey guys I have a 2011 RT and I'm looking at a few different mods to get going. I already have a volant CAI, slp lm2 cat back exhaust, and a diablosport trinity tuner. I'm really just looking into what mods to do first and what people have seen with doing these mods themselves. Also the car is not a daily driver but it does go on longer trips every now and then.
1. LT Headers w/ catless mid pipes (JBA Ceramic Coated LT Headers Part#6965SJT)
2. Caming the Charger with the package from HHP Comp Limiter Cam. (whats the difference in 266,270,and 274?) does the package have everything I would need?
3.Changing the gearing, my charger has the 2.65 and i want to upgrade that to at least 3.55 and maybe as far as 3.92. What are my options for this and price range? I have heard just bring it to a shop and have them change the ring and pinion or changing the whole diff for a Getrag LSD Upgrade.
4. I have been told to look into a high stall torque converter but I don't know much in this section.
5. A bigger throttle body but i have heard mix things about that as its not worth the money for the little if any power it will make.
6. A custom tune, I know I would need one for most of the mods listed above so who do you guys recommend, and can they tune out the CEL for the catless mid pipes?
As I said above I'm looking for what I should do first and just some help on the questions for each mod and what you guys think of each one. Thanks in advance guys
Here is more power for you also:

Many people on this forum are looking for more power without spending a lot more for fuel.

Before we can understand why ACES IV is important in your fuel, an appropriate understanding of "a few things" which determine what gives power in an engine :

We have to begin by understanding that all the horsepower our engines are ever going to produce are stored in the fuel that you use to produce it. All other components including intakes, cams, valves, compression ratios, computer tunes etc all are dependent on appropriate fuel(and lubrication).

It’s really that simple. The specific energy content of the air/fuel mixture and the length it burns is the key.

The more fuel energy your engine can EFFICIENTLY burn (read that utilize), the more power it will produce per given fuel charge. This is correct regardless of whether you are normally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged.

However, a lot of factors influence this fuel energy:

Gross volume, air/fuel ratio, density of the fuel mixture, completeness of vaporization as opposed to atomization, initial flame speed and WHERE the burn originates and how it swirls.

You’ll notice I didn’t mention the octane rating initially. The reason is that in and of itself, octane rating does nothing to improve power output!

All octane rating does is measure the ability of a fuel to resist pre-ignition (read that as detonation) in a higher compression engine.

Higher octane fuels allow the use of higher compression ratios, and THAT does produce more power. This is where the Diablo picks up some power because the engine can be tuned much closer to the compression ratio and it's utilization factor. ACES IV can advance the power even more using a Diablo as the fuel will reach longer power peaks. While an octane rating does influence flame speed, so do other factors.

Two of these other factors are:

Vaporization...this is just what it sounds like: how well is the fuel/air mixture dispersed at the point of ignition. (As ACES IV promotes molecular fuel balancing, a much more vaporized dispersed pattern emerges) Incompletely atomized fuel burns more slowly and mostly will not burn completely. (This is another the reason for 2 plugs in the Hemi)

It doesn’t do you any good if it isn’t completely consumed by the time the exhaust port opens.....(this is why ACES IV releases oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen at exactly peak heat release for a much more complete burn before the exhaust stroke commenses.)

The better job you can do in getting a uniform dispersion of fuel in the incoming air, the more completely it will burn. This is also where ACES IV promotes ignition from the inside out which performs better than an outside in configuration.

Many people try to use oil based fuel additives to accomplish a better burn because they believe that it will reduce surface tension of gasoline, unfortunately petroleum oils commonly used in most all fuel additives have relatively high surface tension in solution with gasoline and so it actually inhibits the vaporization process hampering combustion. (Typically this is why people call most fuel additives "snake oil".)

Oil is the operative word here and why. Remember that if it is distilled out of crude oil and not included in either gasoline, diesel fuel, or jet kerosine, then it isn't good for the fuels in general and should not be added.

Gasoline, diesel fuel, and jet kerosine are the most expensive components and any refinery would love to make full barrels of these three with nothing left over. If the item is distilled out then it is not good for any of them. However, there are bottles of "petroleum distillate" additives available to put in fuels because essentially they have to get rid of them somewhere!!

Flame speed is also pretty self-explanatory, but there are two sides to this coin. On one hand, the faster the fuel/air mixture burns, the higher expanding gas pressure will be and the longer the pressure wave will have to work on the piston before the exhaust port opens.

However, since the ignition system is timed to fire before the piston reaches top-dead-center, some of that gas pressure will actually work AGAINST the piston as it completes the compression stroke. It is called “knock" in your regular car, but it's really pre-ignition and it can be really destructive.

It can literally chew the top of a piston away a little bit at a time. In less then a minute, at the RPMs that most street/strip engines run the top of the piston is gone and youre done. In extreme cases, pre-ignition can break pistons, and the damage that it can do is expensive.

The density of the fuel/air mixture is the subject of a great deal of interest throughout the racing world. The cooler the charge of fuel and air going into the engine, the denser it will be. And the denser it is, the more potential energy there is in each incoming charge. Introducing more available oxygen and hydrogen with the fuel creates more power yet in the given space.

Remember that all the horsepower you’re going to get is stored in that fuel and air (especially with ACES IV), so the denser a charge you can get into the engine, the better. Superchargers and turbochargers increase the charge density mechanically by compressing it, but that generates a lot of heat in the mixture before it ever gets into the cylinder.

This is why lubricity is so important in post combustion to exhaust phase. It creates even more heat if nitrous oxide is used as an accelerant. (ACES IV makes nitrous about 7% more powerful)

With ACES IV, lengthing the flame front and retarding peak heat release will cause the fuel to resist pre-detonation and allow you to lean the engine out more without damage. The heat reactive lubricity produced by the ACES IV will reduce ring and bore wear by some 600% while reducing stem and guide wear by some 360%.

Use of ACES IV in 87 Octane fuel has an ignition improver to help increase 87 up to a 96 Octane effect (for low performance applications only, and not for high performance R/T and SRT8 use) smoother running and more mpg and less heat are produced.

Using it in 89 octane (for R/T and stock SRT8 applications) produces up to 98 Octane effect, and in 93 Octane fuel, effects of up to 102 Octane can be attained. Any base fuel, when treated, will help eliminate cylinder detonation and produce added power.

I use 89 Shell or Marathon fuels and ACES IV at 1 oz per 6 gallons to use the 98 octane effect with smooth power and no detonation in HP applications.

This is what we used when we went to Akron Horsepower along with the 12.5w40 QuantumBlue oils. We picked up 19 hp and 31 ft lbs of torque doing our HP Gold Coolant, the engine oil and ACES IV.

Understanding the dynamics of how fuels work will help many people determine what is the next move, and how to get more power from your fuel effectively and why we designed the ACES IV.:beerchug:

Regards,

Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the great responses, one other question I have is I plan on getting new rims, the stock rims I have right now are 18x8 would i be able to go to a 20x9.5 (2016 SRT 392 rims) with no problem or is there something else that needs to be done.
 
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