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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read somewhere that the only difference between the stock air box filter for the r/t and the bigger superior air box for the daytonas is that the hole in the bottom is a little bigger, but the filter size is still the same. I was wondering if i could make a gain by just drilling several big holes under it. Would this actually help or hurt me?? I was looking for a dirt cheap solution since i dont see the benefits of paying $300 for just sound and maybe 5 hp.
 

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The rubber intake tube that runs from the box to the throttle
body is also different. The Daytona & R&T is more like a funnel,
larger at one end while the stock R/T is a uniform size tube.
 

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what is the point?
are you going to make the hole bigger? without air flow studies? , there is an negative efect for engines named turbulence. a few years ago an enginier give me a whole conference about it and how important is to have the right knowledge designing CAIs. buy mopar tech my frind, avoid experiments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The rubber intake tube that runs from the box to the throttle
body is also different. The Daytona & R&T is more like a funnel,
larger at one end while the stock R/T is a uniform size tube.
So what if i just replace the tube with a larger one for about $15 bucks, enlarge the hole and pop in a high performance stock filter....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what is the point?
are you going to make the hole bigger? without air flow studies? , there is an negative efect for engines named turbulence. a few years ago an enginier give me a whole conference about it and how important is to have the right knowledge designing CAIs. buy mopar tech my frind, avoid experiments.
Why would anyone buy a mopar cai if its been proven in more than one forum that the only two intakes that make a noticable gain on a dyno are the airhammer and afe stage II. Do u actually beleive that the airhammer people conducted air flow studies, they just bolted on the biggest tube and filter they could fit and it works according to alot of people on here. So im just applying the same concept but with the stock filter, why would it be different just because its enclosed in a box?? Thats only my theory, i was just wondering if anyones actually tried this and had success.
 

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what is the point?
are you going to make the hole bigger? without air flow studies? , there is an negative efect for engines named turbulence. a few years ago an enginier give me a whole conference about it and how important is to have the right knowledge designing CAIs. buy mopar tech my frind, avoid experiments.
now did your friend actualyl explain anythign to you? or did he just tell you that "turbulence is bad"

lol.

of course its bad. thats why things like tornadoes and thorttle body spacers are crap.

but you dont create turbulence by making a hole bigger or a pipe wider as long as u dont put anything in the stream of air.

no one ever spent half of their life designing a CAI. its not hard. at all. its basic.
smooth walled tube.
nothing in air stream.
larger inlets/outlets = more airflow. not more turbulence

oh did i mention i work as a mechanical engineer designed air conditioning systems and exhaust systems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
now did your friend actualyl explain anythign to you? or did he just tell you that "turbulence is bad"

lol.

of course its bad. thats why things like tornadoes and thorttle body spacers are crap.

but you dont create turbulence by making a hole bigger or a pipe wider as long as u dont put anything in the stream of air.

no one ever spent half of their life designing a CAI. its not hard. at all. its basic.
smooth walled tube.
nothing in air stream.
larger inlets/outlets = more airflow. not more turbulence

oh did i mention i work as a mechanical engineer designed air conditioning systems and exhaust systems?
Got any advice to help a fellow Charger out?? Like where i can find some bigger compatible tubes and where in the box would be the optimal spot to drill??
 

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lol exhaust pics?

the kind of exhaust im talking about is from a fan connected to ducts in restrooms or kitchen hoods.

lol.


i dont know where to find a tube. when u t hink of what i do... think of air conditioners, fans, ductwork.

i wouldnt drill anything out i dont think...
make sure, that if u can find a tube... important things to consider:

inside of tube must be SMOOOOOTH.
must taper down GRADUALLY. an abrupt change in the volume a section of tubing can cause mad turbulence and screw up the flow of your airstream.
that means you dont want to have a big tube and then a flat section wehre it meets to a small tube.

it has to be one long tube that starts big and slowly gets to be the same size as your throttle body.

oh. and get a drop in performance filter.(25 bucks or so... im biased towards afe. k&n makes one too.)

and ass opposedto drilling out something. i would use a dremel style tool to widen up the outlet on the side of the airbox into your intake tube.

use a circular object. or string and a centerpoint to trace a perfect circle around the current outlet. then dremel up to your stencil line and bang, you have a bigger hole.

the catch is, finding a tube that is bigger on one end and tapers slowly to fit your throttle body. i have no earthly idea what to tell you here.
 

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spell bound !

now did your friend actualyl explain anythign to you? or did he just tell you that "turbulence is bad"

lol.

of course its bad. thats why things like tornadoes and thorttle body spacers are crap.

but you dont create turbulence by making a hole bigger or a pipe wider as long as u dont put anything in the stream of air.

no one ever spent half of their life designing a CAI. its not hard. at all. its basic.
smooth walled tube.
nothing in air stream.
larger inlets/outlets = more airflow. not more turbulence

oh did i mention i work as a mechanical engineer designed air conditioning systems and exhaust systems?[/

"Oh, did I mention- that I'm an engineer who can't spell?" "actualyl", "anythign" :lol:
 

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lol exhaust pics?

the kind of exhaust im talking about is from a fan connected to ducts in restrooms or kitchen hoods.

lol.


i dont know where to find a tube. when u t hink of what i do... think of air conditioners, fans, ductwork.

i wouldnt drill anything out i dont think...
make sure, that if u can find a tube... important things to consider:

inside of tube must be SMOOOOOTH.
must taper down GRADUALLY. an abrupt change in the volume a section of tubing can cause mad turbulence and screw up the flow of your airstream.
that means you dont want to have a big tube and then a flat section wehre it meets to a small tube.

it has to be one long tube that starts big and slowly gets to be the same size as your throttle body.

oh. and get a drop in performance filter.(25 bucks or so... im biased towards afe. k&n makes one too.)

and ass opposedto drilling out something. i would use a dremel style tool to widen up the outlet on the side of the airbox into your intake tube.

use a circular object. or string and a centerpoint to trace a perfect circle around the current outlet. then dremel up to your stencil line and bang, you have a bigger hole.

the catch is, finding a tube that is bigger on one end and tapers slowly to fit your throttle body. i have no earthly idea what to tell you here.
I know exactly what you meant......but I wanted to see your exhaust pic, the original. Find it. Post it. GoGoGo!!!
 

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My R/T ran 2/10s faster in 1/4 with a Daytona airbox and drop K&N then it did with the AFE 2....(I changed airboxs at the track on the sameday twice)
Also ran 1 day with the AFE then a week later with the Daytona box. The times did not change the Daytona worked better then the AFE...
With the GS CAI it runs even faster...
 

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it is a little late now. i have posted in the past that i would race anyone stock for stock with the exception of an air hammer. my tires are jenny craig meal away from being bald and i will not be putting michelins back on.

if you like added noise and nice a/m looks it is for you. performance has not been track tested stock for stock with only that change, to my satisfaction.
 

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it is a little late now. i have posted in the past that i would race anyone stock for stock with the exception of an air hammer. my tires are jenny craig meal away from being bald and i will not be putting michelins back on.

if you like added noise and nice a/m looks it is for you. performance has not been track tested stock for stock with only that change, to my satisfaction.
I had a airhammer in my car too and it ran slower then it did with the afe...
 

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So what if i just replace the tube with a larger one for about $15 bucks, enlarge the hole and pop in a high performance stock filter....
Or how about just leave it alone? That stock filter assembly can flow a LOT of air. I'm unconvinced that there is any sort of restriction there for a stock 5.7L. If there was *really* a noticeable difference between stock and aftermarket/modded you'd think that someone would have shown it by now on a flow bench for all to see in black and white. But perhaps that is just me being unreasonable again...

Best,
 

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Or how about just leave it alone? That stock filter assembly can flow a LOT of air. I'm unconvinced that there is any sort of restriction there for a stock 5.7L. If there was *really* a noticeable difference between stock and aftermarket/modded you'd think that someone would have shown it by now on a flow bench for all to see in black and white. But perhaps that is just me being unreasonable again...

Best,
That is why I switched my R/T airbox to a Daytona airbox. Only cost me $50. Seems to be an upgrade over stock.
 

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A couple years ago I did the Daytona Charger airbox trick (thanks again PACharger), but I modified the box and made my own tube. The tube is double wall with insulation between the two walls. Interior wall is smooth (low resistence), and necks down much like some of the aftermarket units. I've tried both a Trueflow and a K and N filter....currently using the Trueflow. Check out the system.
 

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i'm just giving an advice.
afermarket products are 100% done to make money no matter what's the future of your engine, the huge hammer works becouse the wide pipe they are using. :cry: :cry:
are they still fighting about the dynos done with the hood open? :lol: :lol:
i'm pretty sure there is not studies about the flow of the air inside that object, just street knowledge. that's why i don't buy that.
it reminds me an honda civic with a 3' tall spolier. big for nothing, just look
for those that want to put anything to run faster even voiding warranty, if it make you happy, do it. i'll keep buying mopar

:grin: :grin: :grin:
 

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now did your friend actualyl explain anythign to you? or did he just tell you that "turbulence is bad"

lol.

of course its bad. thats why things like tornadoes and thorttle body spacers are crap.

but you dont create turbulence by making a hole bigger or a pipe wider as long as u dont put anything in the stream of air.

no one ever spent half of their life designing a CAI. its not hard. at all. its basic.
smooth walled tube.
nothing in air stream.
larger inlets/outlets = more airflow. not more turbulence

oh did i mention i work as a mechanical engineer designed air conditioning systems and exhaust systems?[/

"Oh, did I mention- that I'm an engineer who can't spell?" "actualyl", "anythign" :lol:
You should probably learn to hit the Quote button properly before making judgments like this. Not off to a good start with six posts...

Feed me some Jack Daniels; I'll type like that too. Heck, I work IT, and I never learned to touch type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A couple years ago I did the Daytona Charger airbox trick (thanks again PACharger), but I modified the box and made my own tube. The tube is double wall with insulation between the two walls. Interior wall is smooth (low resistence), and necks down much like some of the aftermarket units. I've tried both a Trueflow and a K and N filter....currently using the Trueflow. Check out the system.

That thing is awesome, exactly what i had in mind. Where did u find the tube? did u notice any improvements? Its almost genius in its simplicity
 
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