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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just got my car back from the dealership service department after giving it to them for a 85 point inspection and am now faced with dropping a lot of cash because they are pretty much the only people I would trust with my car. Anyways here is what they told me I needed:
Brake system flush: $99.95
Power steering flush: $103.99
Front pads and rotors: $538.11
Rear pads and rotors: $592.89
Front sway bar bushings: $98.04
All including parts and labour. Unfortunately I don't have a money tree in the backyard so I refuse to pay close to $1600 most of which will be because of OEM parts. I thought since I was getting all this work done I might as well get everything done that I can. Here is what else I will be getting:
Replace air conditioning filter: $28.00 part $34.50 labour
Replace spark plugs: $98.56 part $253.00 labour
Change engine and oil filter: $35.75 part $12.00 labour
Flush and replace engine coolant: $59.25 part $92.00 labour
Change automatic tranny fluid and filter: $134.74 part $115.00 labour
Drain and refill rear axle fluid: $70.50 part $80.50 labour

Due to a couple of unexpected events for which I've had to pay large amounts of money I doubt I can afford all that with the dealerships crazy prices. So I've decided to put aftermarket parts on which will dramatically reduce the prices. So finally here is my point, I have been snooping around on here and checking out aftermarket parts from the vendors and parts that other members have installed and need help from all you guys to find the best parts so I can get everything done. If you guys have any aftermarket parts that you like and use please let me know. These are the following aftermarket parts I will need:
Front and rear brakes and rotors (I've heard R1 has good rotors and the Posi Quiet pads)
Engine Oil & Filter (Deciding between Mopar or Royal Purple)
Spark plugs (No idea)
CAI (Currently have an Aria that the previous owner installed but I might be interested in a new one, maybe K&N or AEM)
If you guys think I could save some money and get the same or even better performance from after market parts or even if I could buy some fluids myself to save the money please let me know.
Also depending on how much money I save I want to install a 180 Tstat, Oil catch can and halo lights. Opinions and reviews would help for those as well.
Sorry for all the reading Thanks
 

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So I just got my car back from the dealership service department after giving it to them for a 85 point inspection and am now faced with dropping a lot of cash because they are pretty much the only people I would trust with my car. Anyways here is what they told me I needed:
Brake system flush: $99.95
This should be able to be done at a local shop for no more than $40.00


Power steering flush: $103.99
Buy our QuantumBlue steering system fluid/flush and catalyst for $37.41 and buy a $1.50 turkey baster
http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144312


Front pads and rotors: $538.11
Rear pads and rotors: $592.89
Front sway bar bushings: $98.04

Look up Napa parts for the pads and rotors. Use their top of the line type. Sway bar bushings too!

All including parts and labour. Unfortunately I don't have a money tree in the backyard so I refuse to pay close to $1600 most of which will be because of OEM parts. I thought since I was getting all this work done I might as well get everything done that I can. Here is what else I will be getting:

Replace air conditioning filter: $28.00 part $34.50 labour
Do this one yourself. Takes 5 minutes. Any aftermarket filter is fine

Replace spark plugs: $98.56 part $253.00 labour
If you don't want to do it yourself, can get a local shop to do it much cheaper

Change engine and oil filter: $35.75 part $12.00 labour
Purchase QuantumBlue @ 102.08 + Free oil filter and run it 10k miles. Mopar oil is only good for 3k miles. Here is a sample of Mopar oil vs QB. Mopar @ 3,592 miles vs. QB @ 11112 miles. Better performance with 3.09 times longer mileage! http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150851

Flush and replace engine coolant: $59.25 part $92.00 labour
Use QuantumBlue for 5 yr or 150,000 miles. No sodium silicates, sodium benzoate, or sodium tetraborate and no sulfates and exceeds HOAT Specs. These items are in Mopar coolant....read the bottle!

Change automatic tranny fluid and filter: $134.74 part $115.00 labour
QuantumBlue 2 gallons of trans fluid + filter $142.58 + labor. Better on the trans and has more friction modifiers to protect the clutch packs than ATF+4 Mopar fluid

Drain and refill rear axle fluid: $70.50 part $80.50 labour
QuantumBlue 75w120 Tackified Red Ultra HP fluid for $51.04 for the gallon + labor

Due to a couple of unexpected events for which I've had to pay large amounts of money I doubt I can afford all that with the dealerships crazy prices. So I've decided to put aftermarket parts on which will dramatically reduce the prices. So finally here is my point, I have been snooping around on here and checking out aftermarket parts from the vendors and parts that other members have installed and need help from all you guys to find the best parts so I can get everything done. If you guys have any aftermarket parts that you like and use please let me know. These are the following aftermarket parts I will need:

Front and rear brakes and rotors (I've heard R1 has good rotors and the Posi Quiet pads) Napa is fine and works just as well for less money!

Engine Oil & Filter (Deciding between Mopar or Royal Purple) QuantumBlue is much better than either of these two!

Spark plugs (No idea)
CAI (Currently have an Aria that the previous owner installed but I might be interested in a new one, maybe K&N or AEM) Look into www.greenfilterusa.com!

If you guys think I could save some money and get the same or even better performance from after market parts or even if I could buy some fluids myself to save the money please let me know.

Also depending on how much money I save I want to install a 180 Tstat, Oil catch can and halo lights. Opinions and reviews would help for those as well.
Sorry for all the reading Thanks
If you have any other questions feel free to call me and we can discuss. :beerchug:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Replace spark plugs: $98.56 part $253.00 labor

Oh no, no way. This takes 30 minutes, and it probably one of the most relaxing things I've done to this car. $253.00 is incredible. I've heard mechanics cry about there being 16 spark plugs (if you have a V8), but seriously, its not that big of a deal. For $253 dollars, they'd better have to pull my engine out of the bay.
 

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Replace spark plugs: $98.56 part $253.00 labor

Oh no, no way. This takes 30 minutes, and it probably one of the most relaxing things I've done to this car. $253.00 is incredible. I've heard mechanics cry about there being 16 spark plugs (if you have a V8), but seriously, its not that big of a deal. For $253 dollars, they'd better have to pull my engine out of the bay.
If you do decide to do them yourself, MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS COLD OR COOL.!!!!

Don't want to pull the threads out with the plugs!!:slap:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replace spark plugs: $98.56 part $253.00 labor

Oh no, no way. This takes 30 minutes, and it probably one of the most relaxing things I've done to this car. $253.00 is incredible. I've heard mechanics cry about there being 16 spark plugs (if you have a V8), but seriously, its not that big of a deal. For $253 dollars, they'd better have to pull my engine out of the bay.
Haha I know and the worst part, on their maintenance sheet the labour time for spark plugs is 2.2, which I'm guessing is 2 hours 20 minutes. In any case I'm thinking about finding a new shop to get my work done but I'm very picky about who is allowed to touch her.
Ps. Sick ride, hopefully I can reach your level of mods one day.

If you do decide to do them yourself, MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS COLD OR COOL.!!!!

Don't want to pull the threads out with the plugs!!:slap:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
I wish I could do it myself but I don't have the proper tools or the time right now. :( Thanks a lot for all that info as well, I'll be sure to check out all the recommendations. :beerchug:
 

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I have never understood why people have work done at a dealership.... Ever. Who wants to pay a $98/hr labor rate vs. $60-75 at a local shop? Then have the dealership service writer charge you for every little shop item used or not used. You will literally be paying for the shop rags the techs are wiping their hands on.
$1100 for breaks and rotors? Hahaha. Pure highway robbery. Go to your nearest Advance. Gold line Wagner Thermo Quiet brakes are what I usually use. If you catch them on special you might spend $60 on the front and back pads.
I also use Royal Purple with a K&N filter.
And $253 to change the spark plugs..... I don't even know what to say..... Just wow....:slap:
 

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$1100 for brakes is bezerk. I put Baer rotors & ceramic pads on my car for $300 and change, did the work myself. They better be buying you dinner and drinks before they ***** you.
 

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That brake quote is insane. New rotors from R1 (slotted and cross drilled) and pads were less than $500 total. My local mechanic charged $200 to change out front and rear. you could do yourself but i was just lazy and wanted done ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
$1100 for brakes is bezerk. I put Baer rotors & ceramic pads on my car for $300 and change, did the work myself. They better be buying you dinner and drinks before they ***** you.
Haha no dinner or drinks, not even a call afterwards. I'm thinking about doing most of the work myself if I can find a good tool kit for a good price. I've seen some good write ups and I do have some experience so if all goes well I might save quite a bit.

That brake quote is insane. New rotors from R1 (slotted and cross drilled) and pads were less than $500 total. My local mechanic charged $200 to change out front and rear. you could do yourself but i was just lazy and wanted done ASAP.
How are those rotors? I was thinking about getting those with the posi quiet pads.

I have never understood why people have work done at a dealership.... Ever. Who wants to pay a $98/hr labor rate vs. $60-75 at a local shop? Then have the dealership service writer charge you for every little shop item used or not used. You will literally be paying for the shop rags the techs are wiping their hands on.
$1100 for breaks and rotors? Hahaha. Pure highway robbery. Go to your nearest Advance. Gold line Wagner Thermo Quiet brakes are what I usually use. If you catch them on special you might spend $60 on the front and back pads.
I also use Royal Purple with a K&N filter.
And $253 to change the spark plugs..... I don't even know what to say..... Just wow....:slap:
I know I know, trust me I used to make fun of my friends that used to go to dealerships but I've moved to Canada and can't find a good mechanic here so the dealer was my only option.TThey might charge an arm and a leg but at least I know my car is in safe hands. I need to find a quick mechanic but for the time being I'm gonna try to work on her myself if the weather stays good. Is there any precautions I need to take switching from mopar oil and filter to royal purple?
 

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Is there any precautions I need to take switching from mopar oil and filter to royal purple?
Yea, don't use Royal Purple!! High Moly and Boron leave deposits in your engine that look like grape jelly! RP was tested by Mopar along with a lot of other off the shelf oils, and RP came in dead last in performance and increased the wear more than any other oil!

Besides, Royal Purple is more expensive then QuantumBlue and QB is custom blended for your car and your mods. This month $102.08 + a free oil filter. Hey, you can even support a vendor that supports this forum!:)

Look at the link on the Mopar oil vs the QB. 3.09 times longer on the drain interval and less wear! :bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Air conditioning filter..20.00 at autozone, 1 minute to chANGE....INSANE.....
 

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R1 rotors are great! I am running Hawk race pads right now that are kinda noisy. I will be changing to posi quiet or satisfied pro next. Talk to them on the phone and mention Charger forums and they will discount the internet prices. I have their rotors on my Caddy STS also...
 

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Are you in Houston? Lots of spots for parts. Advance auto is good for discounts and coupons for more on the next purchase..Splitting up orders saves tons of cash..
Everything on the list can be done on your own and save lots of money in the process..

Griz
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea, don't use Royal Purple!! High Moly and Boron leave deposits in your engine that look like grape jelly! RP was tested by Mopar along with a lot of other off the shelf oils, and RP came in dead last in performance and increased the wear more than any other oil!

Besides, Royal Purple is more expensive then QuantumBlue and QB is custom blended for your car and your mods. This month $102.08 + a free oil filter. Hey, you can even support a vendor that supports this forum!:)

Look at the link on the Mopar oil vs the QB. 3.09 times longer on the drain interval and less wear! :bigthumb:

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
Do you guys ship to Canada?

R1 rotors are great! I am running Hawk race pads right now that are kinda noisy. I will be changing to posi quiet or satisfied pro next. Talk to them on the phone and mention Charger forums and they will discount the internet prices. I have their rotors on my Caddy STS also...
I've heard the R1 Slotted and Cross Drilled are good with the Posi Quiets so I might go with those. Thanks for the tip man.

Are you in Houston? Lots of spots for parts. Advance auto is good for discounts and coupons for more on the next purchase..Splitting up orders saves tons of cash..
Everything on the list can be done on your own and save lots of money in the process..

Griz
No, I used to live in Houston but now I live in Canada :-( If I was in Houston I could get everything done for a good price but in Canada it's not possible. Everything is so expensive and I don't really trust the guys here with my car.
 

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Do you guys ship to Canada?
Yes we do ship to Canada all day and every day. We use FedEx Ground. You just let us know what you want and we can make it happen.;)

Regards,
Brian
BND Automotive LLC:driving:
440-821-9040
www.bndautomotive.com
 

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Yea, don't use Royal Purple!! High Moly and Boron leave deposits in your engine that look like grape jelly! RP was tested by Mopar along with a lot of other off the shelf oils, and RP came in dead last in performance and increased the wear more than any other oil!

Besides, Royal Purple is more expensive then QuantumBlue and QB is custom blended for your car and your mods. This month $102.08 + a free oil filter. Hey, you can even support a vendor that supports this forum!:)

Look at the link on the Mopar oil vs the QB. 3.09 times longer on the drain interval and less wear! :bigthumb:
I've seen tests that find that Royal Purple performs well. AAP guy recommended it and it has done fairly well in my car. No grape jelly that me or my mechanic have seen. I'm not sure that I can justify spending over a hundred on oil and a filter since I'm not driving a track car. I'm not doubting you but if you would post a few links that disprove the ones I've seen on Royal Purple that would be great. :bigthumb: I'm always open to changes.
 

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I think it might be a good forum project to make a list of what tools you need, and develop specific how-tos for these commonly recommended items, most of which are not even factory recommendations, but dealership developed items meant to enhance service department profits. What year is you car, BTW< what mielage, and how hard do you use it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think it might be a good forum project to make a list of what tools you need, and develop specific how-tos for these commonly recommended items, most of which are not even factory recommendations, but dealership developed items meant to enhance service department profits. What year is you car, BTW< what mielage, and how hard do you use it?
That's a great idea, I know it would make life a lot easier for some people including me. I drive a 2006 RT that I bought a year ago with 56,000 miles and it is now sitting at 72.000. I'd say the driving is pretty rough just because I live in Calgary, AB and the winters here are rough, full of snow and -40 Celsius, even in the summer right now we had horrible hail come down a couple times. I drive a pretty conservatively most of the time, don't let my revs go over 2,000 rpm's, but I have to let the beast out a couple times a month. Also the roads are crap here so I want to make sure I keep her up to date.
 
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