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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
22x9.5 KMC Dime chrome with Nitto tires on a Charger R/T, lowered with the Eibach pro-kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everyone has an opinion on wheel choices and sizes that I understand, but how can you say it looks better stock height than lowered? Everyone complains that the new Charger is not sporty enough for the Charger name, but you say it looks better with stock ride height? Maybe Dodge should lift the SRT8 instead of lowering it, would that look better also? And for the functional part of your comment, the car is an R/T with a Hemi do you not want it to handle better? If you want a more functional ride height check out a SUV forum.
 

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KC Trends said:
Everyone has an opinion on wheel choices and sizes that I understand, but how can you say it looks better stock height than lowered? Everyone complains that the new Charger is not sporty enough for the Charger name, but you say it looks better with stock ride height? Maybe Dodge should lift the SRT8 instead of lowering it, would that look better also? And for the functional part of your comment, the car is an R/T with a Hemi do you not want it to handle better? If you want a more functional ride height check out a SUV forum.
A slightly lowered ride height is fine and does lower the center of gravity for a flatter handling stance. But I side with the folks not into large diameter wheels. I am just not enamored with them. For my tastes I like the looks of wide meat. I also don't like to screw with the wheel geometery which can throw the speedometer/odometer off. (Yes, I know they can fix that with a computer tweek).

Taking the standard geometery of a Daytona (235/60R18) and to keep the same diameter tire you can go with a 255/50R19. Gives you a slightly bigger wheel and you are only .25% (.07in/1.78mm) shorter than stock. You want even wider meats, go 285/50R18 and you are still within reason, .42% (.12in/3.04mm) too tall.

To do the same for a 20" or 22" rim you need to actually go skinnier on the 22" to maintain the geometery. A 225/40R22 means you are only off by .07% (.02in/.54mm) too short, while a 285/40R20 is the farthest of the four by being .45% too tall (.13in/3.34mm). However, I am not sure they even make tires in these sizes. Doing the math and I can see that going with the 22's is the closest to stock height, but you lose nearly 4" in overall sidewall height.

As KC said, it all personal tastes. I would add that being different is why we buy cars like this in the first place, to set ourselves apart from the multitudes out there. Buying wheels and tires we like helps give our cars that personal and unique touch.
 

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Not everyone like larger rims, every wheel style nor lowered cars. But worring about your speedometer saying 60 and you are actually driving 59 or 61 is really a non issue or a moot point. As your tires wear down and wear out the speedo will not give an accurate reading anyway.
 

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E55 KEV said:
Not everyone like larger rims, every wheel style nor lowered cars. But worring about your speedometer saying 60 and you are actually driving 59 or 61 is really a non issue or a moot point. As your tires wear down and wear out the speedo will not give an accurate reading anyway.
I am not worried either if the geometry is close, say withing 1 or 2 percent. What I would be worried about is putting on a tire/wheel combination that is more than 2 or 3 percent off which not only can give speedo errors, but will effect the accumulation of mile on the odometer as well. Wouldn't want to be putting 200, 300, or more miles on when I really hadn't travelled that far.

Hmmm... did a bit of shopping. Putting on some of these:

BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW NT 285/35R22
(Just about the only non-SUV tire in 22's I could quicky find)

the tire diameter differences are:

Standard: 29.10in/739.14mm
Big 22's: 29.85in/758.19mm

Thats oversized by 2.57%, under the recommended difference of 3%. Oh, I get it now... a clever way to slow the odometer down... with tires like this, when I really travel 10000 miles, the odometer only reads 9743. At 50000 miles the odometer reads only 48715. Still not a lot of difference, but over time and if you drive heavily, it accumulates.
 

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ok.... if you like the look of big wheels... go for it
if you like the look of it lowered.... go for it

but if you are looking to improve handling and performance... dont put 22's on it...

A short sidewall, big wheel combo slows you down off the line compared to stock, throws the cars suspension off (remember the suspension is designed with a tire sidewall in mind), and hinders braking...

If you think that low pro's give you better handling... take a look at F1 race cars... they have more then 1" of sidewall.... doing it for looks is one thing ... doing it for performance.... you are either off your rocker... or are just really really un-educated when it comes to vehicles...

Just my opinion... take it for what its worth...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You are correct, I never said that 22" wheels were the best thing for performance, however the point I was making is the fact that lowering the car not only improves performance but greatly improves the look of the Charger. Now back to the wheels....22" are on the Charger cosmetic, but so far the majority of my customers who are buying Chargers are buying them for cosmetic reasons, if you are buying the Charger in hopes of having a true muscle car there are better options. However if you want a very sporty sedan that can run with cars twice its price then the Charger/300C are your best bet. Large wheels are not used by people who do not understand automobiles, there is a line that seperates function and performance from pure cosmetics, however the performance and handling gain is an issue with a lower profile tire, if it was not an issue then explain to me why the SRT has larger wheels and lower tires, or how about the AMG line of Mercedes, or maybe its just BMW being idiots to offer 20" wheels factory....Have any of you seen the new ultra luxury rocket that Mercedes is testing, the Maybach coupe with factory 23" wheels????? If you do your math correct and make the proper adjusments to your vehicle you can achieve a very nice combination of looks and function, if 18" wheels are the newest and hottest thing on your block then so be it, but when I started selling wheels 12 years ago I was the laughing stock of my town because I sold larger wheel and tire packages, the people then said that 17" and then 18" were terrible, but now those same people and dealers are beating our door down to outfit all types of cars from Chryslers to Bentleys and Lamborghinis with larger size wheels. The majority of the Chargers we have done so far are car dealers who love the look, and ride as well as the increased profit they are making from the added accessories. I do have one question, and I hate to sound stupid but Daytona R/T, how does a larger wheel/tire combo with the same overall diameter and in some cases the same or lighter weight set up effect the performance off the line compared to a stock setup with again the same O.D. and weight? Last but not leaset, Daimler Chrysler themselves are the ones fueling the so called DUB edition Chargers, 300C, and Magnums, if it is such a horrible idea then speak to them about all the vehicles they are sending to car shows, video and movie shoots, as well as using them for publicity everywhere. Hell Chrysler is about to offer a diamond encrusted Jacob & Co. clock for the dash of the 300C, not for everyone but they will sell. Have fun keeping you Chargers stock or using the large sidewall tires, but to those who have a craving for more fashionable looks then I say have fun. Be original and most importantly keep it safe.
 

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Is the SRT running the same suspension as the R/T? same spring rates?

KC Trends said:
I do have one question, and I hate to sound stupid but Daytona R/T, how does a larger wheel/tire combo with the same overall diameter and in some cases the same or lighter weight set up effect the performance off the line compared to a stock setup with again the same O.D. and weight? .

Actually simple physics....

Take a 5lb weight in your hand, and rotate your arm... now attach same 5lb weight to a rope... and swing the weight...

the farther away from the center axis the more force is require to start movement. also the more force is required to stop movement... the SRT-8 comes with bigger brakes as well right?

As far as movies ad promotions etc... that is all fine and dandy for getting people in... but have you ever seen a Jeep Wrangler beat up off-road in a movie? lifted? Well... if I buy a jeep, lift it and beat the hell out of it off-road... what will Jeep say when I come in because I busted something... will they say no problem because we show that you can do that in our ads and in movies we supply vehicles for? I have a feeling they will require payment before you get your keys back...another exampe... GM provided thier watersports teams with lifted Avalanches... but when I lifted my AV, I voided the suspension, and driveline warrenty...

As far as stock... I am not one for stock, and have well over 50 mods on my current vehicle... but I know the facts about what I do to it, and accept that... (I am running 325/60-18's on my truck... slightly bigger then the 265/70-17's....) but I know there are cons about running a tire that big, and accept that... IE: wider tires wear out stearing components quicker, bigger tires increase strain on the driveline, and require more room for braking... but I wont blow smoke up your *&^ to convince you that I have better handling or off-roading ability...

Like I said... if you want to put 22's on it do it but dont think you are gaining from a performance standpoint... look at any race car to back this... dont look at vehicles done to produce oohs and ahhs while parked in a convention center...
 
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