[Insane_Browny]

Recently did a mid resonator delete and muffler delete with 2.5" piping on my 2020 SP Charger. The loudness was ridiculous but loved it. The huge downfall was losing torque at low end. Noticed when I stepped on it the car wasn't as responsive as it was before. Anyone knows if I either put back the back muffler and leave the resonator deleted would fix the issue? Should I put 3" inch straight pipe right where the mid res. was or keep it with the 2.5"? Or just plainly have the shop weld back the stock res and muffler? (Thankfully I kept them)

 

[donavantbh]

Honestly, although some would argue that you do lose torque, I've heard that it is a very small amount, so you might just be tricking yourself into thinking you lost a ton of power.

Of course, I am just speculating. You are the actual driver and know better than I do, but if you still like the loudness and stuff, but want to get some of the backpressure back, I'd recommend reinstalling the rear resonators and reconnecting the active exhaust so you can control how loud the car is whenever you want.

 

[Insane_Browny]

No yeah for sure, I can definitely feel the loss of torque. But I am thinking of reinstalling rear resonators and reconnecting the active exhaust and just have mid muffler delete. Thanks for the input!

 

[Punisher69]

Ok, first off, your car came with 2.75" exhaust, why would you use a smaller pipe?

Secondly, get ready for drone. The rear resosnators are designed and tuned to reduce cabin drone. You're about to be in for an annoying ride.

Lastly, your ears have mis- calibrated your butt-dyno. You're hearing a LOT of noise and THINKING you should be faster, when in fact, you're accelerating at the exact same rate.

The mufflers and resos on an SP are straight through. There's no restriction, so removing them doesn't create enough airflow change to make even a 2-3 lb/ft of torque difference. You'd never be able to tell the difference.

I've had about 6 different exhaust set ups on my 17 Charger SP. None of which has changed my track times or 0-60 times. The extra sound does make you feel like you're slower though.

The last set up on my car was to add mufflers the same design as the factory ones to my car (which was straight-piped to the resos). The change did make it seem like I had lost a little but she's still 0-60 in 3 seconds and 1/4 mile in low 10's. No loss of power, the sound just confused the feel.



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[CtCarl]

Recently did a mid resonator delete and muffler delete with 2.5" piping on my 2020 SP Charger. The loudness was ridiculous but loved it. The huge downfall was losing torque at low end. Noticed when I stepped on it the car wasn't as responsive as it was before. Anyone knows if I either put back the back muffler and leave the resonator deleted would fix the issue? Should I put 3" inch straight pipe right where the mid res. was or keep it with the 2.5"? Or just plainly have the shop weld back the stock res and muffler? (Thankfully I kept them)

Most likely what you're looking at is that changes in exhaust gas velocity have resulted in shifting your powerband. You may have lost some power down low and picked it up on the high end. It's probably more to do with removing the mid-mufflers than the resonators, since changes made upstream when the exhaust gas is hottest make the most difference. This is something I've seen first-gen LX owners complain about when they've taken off the old three-pass or two-pass suitcase mufflers.

But as has already been pointed out upthread, any differences in velocity are likely to be minimal in your case, because the pieces you took off aren't very restrictive anyway. So it's hard to say exactly what you'd have to put back to make it "feel" the way you remember it. Theoretically, putting the mid-mufflers back should help, but the resonators are more important for eliminating drone.

 

[Insane_Browny]

Idk why the shop used that size piping. Should I do 3" or find a 2.75" pipe? And well I can feel it at the throttle, before I'd barely step on it and it was jerking me, now my foot goes down a good amount before car actually starts moving.

 

[Wisconsin Bob]

I also say that you didn't lose anything. My guess is that you were equating power with noise. Now that it's louder, you push the petal less, thinking less torque. Some old timers think that you MUST have exhaust back pressure for power, but that's a myth.

 

[CtCarl]

Idk why the shop used that size piping. Should I do 3" or find a 2.75" pipe? And well I can feel it at the throttle, before I'd barely step on it and it was jerking me, now my foot goes down a good amount before car actually starts moving.

Fixing this is not going to be that simple. Not for anything, but did the shop even use stainless piping, or did they tear out your all-stainless-steel factory system and replace it with shiatty mild steel that started rusting on the way home?

It sounds like there's essentially nothing at all left of your original exhaust after the cats. Tweaking it even more by changing the pipe diameter is just guesswork at this point, although switching to 3" pipe will probably make the problem, or more specifically, your perception of the problem, worse.

If it's possible/practical to do at this point, I'd put the entire stock exhaust back on. Then you can tweak it one piece at a time if you're not happy with it. You can try something like a mid-muffler delete, or replacing them with a shorter-than-stock, straight-through bottle type. But when you make radical changes like you have, it's tough to predict what will happen if you change one more thing.

 

[Insane_Browny]

I still have my whole exhaust except for the mid mufflers and back end mufflers. Those were replaced with stainless steel 2.5" piping. So I'm guessing put back the back exhaust and keep the mid mufflers deleted to see how that feels.

 

[FlyersHockey]

A mid-resonator delete? They're at the back, the mufflers are in the middle. And it's THAT noticeable that before your car would jump when you hit the throttle and now when you smash it there is a small hesitation before it goes?

There is no way that having done what you did, other than creating more noise, did anything noticeable performance wise. It's all in your head.

 

[Insane_Browny]

Maybe it is, but I definitely feel the little lag there is now when I press on the pedal as compared to before. Might just do a pcm swap. Keep my stock one and have diablo sports supply me with an unlocked one with a tune.

 

[SnoresLikeBear]

Ok, first off, your car came with 2.75" exhaust, why would you use a smaller pipe?

Secondly, get ready for drone. The rear resosnators are designed and tuned to reduce cabin drone. You're about to be in for an annoying ride.

Lastly, your ears have mis- calibrated your butt-dyno. You're hearing a LOT of noise and THINKING you should be faster, when in fact, you're accelerating at the exact same rate.

The mufflers and resos on an SP are straight through. There's no restriction, so removing them doesn't create enough airflow change to make even a 2-3 lb/ft of torque difference. You'd never be able to tell the difference.

I've had about 6 different exhaust set ups on my 17 Charger SP. None of which has changed my track times or 0-60 times. The extra sound does make you feel like you're slower though.

The last set up on my car was to add mufflers the same design as the factory ones to my car (which was straight-piped to the resos). The change did make it seem like I had lost a little but she's still 0-60 in 3 seconds and 1/4 mile in low 10's. No loss of power, the sound just confused the feel.



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Were any of those exhaust systems from Borla? If so was it a Touring or S Type?

 

[krautmaster]

First thing you need to do is disconnect the battery and go have a cup off coffee. This will erase all the adaptions and it will revert back to factory specs. Second, hook the battery back up and re calibrate your throttle: with your foot OFF the brake, push the ignition button three times to the run position and wait till all the flashing lights and chimes finish their routine, then press the throttle all the way to the floor three times within 10 seconds and let it up. Turn the ignition off. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes while the pcm senses the new exhaust flow, they go drive it like you stole it...you will likely be amazed how much better it runs.

Just for fun I re calibrate my throttle every month.

 

[Punisher69]

Were any of those exhaust systems from Borla? If so was it a Touring or S Type?

No, I have a friend with an exhaust shop. I can't wrap my mind around paying Borla or Corsa prices. I've experimented with all my set ups for less than the cost of a single one of their systems lol

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[Insane_Browny]

First thing you need to do is disconnect the battery and go have a cup off coffee. This will erase all the adaptions and it will revert back to factory specs. Second, hook the battery back up and re calibrate your throttle: with your foot OFF the brake, push the ignition button three times to the run position and wait till all the flashing lights and chimes finish their routine, then press the throttle all the way to the floor three times within 10 seconds and let it up. Turn the ignition off. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes while the pcm senses the new exhaust flow, they go drive it like you stole it...you will likely be amazed how much better it runs.

Just for fun I re calibrate my throttle every month.

Definitely have to try the pedal recalibration, but does it still apply with pedal commander ? Or should I disconnect pedal commander before doing the recalibration? Also why do you need to recalibrate every month? Does it eventually go back to feeling sluggish?

 

[krautmaster]

If you get stuck in traffic going 15 mph like I do all the time, the car begins to think it is a Prius and has to be reminded to go when I step on it... that, and I just like to tinker with stuff because I get bored easily...

I think I would disconnect the pedal commander first

 

[Star's n Stipes]

Ok, first off, your car came with 2.75" exhaust, why would you use a smaller pipe?

Secondly, get ready for drone. The rear resosnators are designed and tuned to reduce cabin drone. You're about to be in for an annoying ride.

Lastly, your ears have mis- calibrated your butt-dyno. You're hearing a LOT of noise and THINKING you should be faster, when in fact, you're accelerating at the exact same rate.

The mufflers and resos on an SP are straight through. There's no restriction, so removing them doesn't create enough airflow change to make even a 2-3 lb/ft of torque difference. You'd never be able to tell the difference.

I've had about 6 different exhaust set ups on my 17 Charger SP. None of which has changed my track times or 0-60 times. The extra sound does make you feel like you're slower though.

The last set up on my car was to add mufflers the same design as the factory ones to my car (which was straight-piped to the resos). The change did make it seem like I had lost a little but she's still 0-60 in 3 seconds and 1/4 mile in low 10's. No loss of power, the sound just confused the feel.



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Just wondering how are you getting 3sec on 0 60 and low 10s on 1/4 mile on a scat pack

 

[FlyersHockey]

Just wondering how are you getting 3sec on 0 60 and low 10s on 1/4 mile on a scat pack

He had work done. I believe he stated he's putting down 840rwhp.

 

[Punisher69]

Just wondering how are you getting 3sec on 0 60 and low 10s on 1/4 mile on a scat pack

Yeah, she's not stock lol

Forged 426, custom cam, F1A Procharger, fuel upgrades, built trans, custom 2pc chromoly driveshaft, GForce 9" rear conversion and Renegade axles.

It put 838hp/733tq down on the last tuning pull before the engine was even broken in good.

It'll go faster. The [email protected] was with all the nannies on the very first pass in it. I made one more pass with the nannies off and went [email protected] because I had to pedal it at 330'. I haven't been back since, been doing other things.

Was it cheap to do? No

Was it worth the price? Every. Single. Penny.

Lol

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