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I wanted to post this as an "add-on" to the other posts regarding the lockpick. As clarification for those that may bounce through here without knowing what a LockPick is....It is a device that essentially unlocks the Dodge/Chrysler "MyGig" radios so that you can enter data in the navi while moving and watch DVD video while moving. While I don't think the DVD is a good idea, the Navi bypass is great because now your passenger can enter navi data and destinations while you are moving. Search up Lockpick and you will soon find www.coastaletech.com which is one location that sells it.
The other thing the unit allows you to do is install cameras. You can go with a "rear" or "backup" camera and a front facing camera as well. I went with both b/c I wanted to get a great view while backing up and I wanted to avoid hitting the parking stops/blocks in parking lots.
Since the install of the lockpick itself is not rocket science, I won't go into painful detail. You can find dozens of installs for examples. Instead I will mention what I did for the cameras and how I ran the wires.
I used the cameras from Coastaletech.com. They were a good price, the same as most I have seen in terms of size and options and I only had to get things in one place. Life is too short. The cameras come with all the wires and detailed instructions on the install, so it's straight forward. In both cases the cameras have jumpers to set two options. First is the "reverse video" option and the second is the "Distance Marks" option. The first is for reversing the video when the camera is front mounted. On the rear, you leave it as is so that the left to right orientation is correct on the cameras as you back up. The second is the distance marks. I left them in place and like it a great deal. It gives you a good frame of reference. Not precise by any stretch, but I did not expect them to be. They do however, serve well to give you a general reference.
I'll give you some details on the step by step where I feel it cannot be found on the other installs I have read. The install:
Rear Camera:
1) Remove three interior trunk panels. These are the trunk deck, the rear cover (around the latch) and the right side fender cover. These come out easily with just a push peg removal tool or a flat blade screwdriver. Just be careful not to damage the panels.
2) The plate camera basically sits right above the plate on the rear bumper. there is one wire coming out. I has four leads. Two are the option jumpers mentioned above, one is for power and one for video signal. The wire feeds easily right at the license plate light.
3) Drill two 1/2 inch holes, very close to each other below and just to the right of the trunk latch. I then dremmel (rotary tool) the opening into one oval and smooth out the edges to avoid the wire being damaged.
4) I snaked the wire through with the connectors (Barrel Style power and RCA plug for video) into the trunk. The wire is long enough that I can make the connections in the trunk. Once in, I put in a couple pieces of 3M foam tape at the hole to avoid chaffing. Overkill, but I prefer to be safe. To avoid the possibility of the connectors ever coming loose, I shrink wrap them. They cannot come loose this way. It also helps to avoid anything getting in there you don't want. Water spray, etc. However, since these are in the trunk it's more for a secure connection. (The front is a different story....)
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5) Remove the back seat bottom. This pops out in a second. Just be careful where you place it to not damage the upholstery. You then can pop the right side rear down as need to gain access to the wire run.
6) Since the battery and main fuze box are in the trunk on the SRT8 the running of the wire is simple. I simply followed the path on the wire harness that is already in place to get to the right side of the car. Red arrows show you.
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7) Thread the wire under the sound insulation/vapor barrier under the seat following the existing wire harness (on the SRT8, I don't know if it is the case on the other Chargers) all the way to the right rear door jam.
8) Remove the right rear door sill (just pops up easily), the right front pillar cover and the right front door sill. Once you have those off the center pillar cover has two screws (front and back at the floor) that come off to loosen it enought to get the wire passed it easily. For added assurance that it did not move, I tie wrapped the wire to the bundle of wires running passed the pillar. Below is the shot of the wire's path under the center pillar cover at the front seat.
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The other thing the unit allows you to do is install cameras. You can go with a "rear" or "backup" camera and a front facing camera as well. I went with both b/c I wanted to get a great view while backing up and I wanted to avoid hitting the parking stops/blocks in parking lots.
Since the install of the lockpick itself is not rocket science, I won't go into painful detail. You can find dozens of installs for examples. Instead I will mention what I did for the cameras and how I ran the wires.
I used the cameras from Coastaletech.com. They were a good price, the same as most I have seen in terms of size and options and I only had to get things in one place. Life is too short. The cameras come with all the wires and detailed instructions on the install, so it's straight forward. In both cases the cameras have jumpers to set two options. First is the "reverse video" option and the second is the "Distance Marks" option. The first is for reversing the video when the camera is front mounted. On the rear, you leave it as is so that the left to right orientation is correct on the cameras as you back up. The second is the distance marks. I left them in place and like it a great deal. It gives you a good frame of reference. Not precise by any stretch, but I did not expect them to be. They do however, serve well to give you a general reference.
I'll give you some details on the step by step where I feel it cannot be found on the other installs I have read. The install:
Rear Camera:
1) Remove three interior trunk panels. These are the trunk deck, the rear cover (around the latch) and the right side fender cover. These come out easily with just a push peg removal tool or a flat blade screwdriver. Just be careful not to damage the panels.
2) The plate camera basically sits right above the plate on the rear bumper. there is one wire coming out. I has four leads. Two are the option jumpers mentioned above, one is for power and one for video signal. The wire feeds easily right at the license plate light.
3) Drill two 1/2 inch holes, very close to each other below and just to the right of the trunk latch. I then dremmel (rotary tool) the opening into one oval and smooth out the edges to avoid the wire being damaged.
4) I snaked the wire through with the connectors (Barrel Style power and RCA plug for video) into the trunk. The wire is long enough that I can make the connections in the trunk. Once in, I put in a couple pieces of 3M foam tape at the hole to avoid chaffing. Overkill, but I prefer to be safe. To avoid the possibility of the connectors ever coming loose, I shrink wrap them. They cannot come loose this way. It also helps to avoid anything getting in there you don't want. Water spray, etc. However, since these are in the trunk it's more for a secure connection. (The front is a different story....)
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5) Remove the back seat bottom. This pops out in a second. Just be careful where you place it to not damage the upholstery. You then can pop the right side rear down as need to gain access to the wire run.
6) Since the battery and main fuze box are in the trunk on the SRT8 the running of the wire is simple. I simply followed the path on the wire harness that is already in place to get to the right side of the car. Red arrows show you.
7) Thread the wire under the sound insulation/vapor barrier under the seat following the existing wire harness (on the SRT8, I don't know if it is the case on the other Chargers) all the way to the right rear door jam.
8) Remove the right rear door sill (just pops up easily), the right front pillar cover and the right front door sill. Once you have those off the center pillar cover has two screws (front and back at the floor) that come off to loosen it enought to get the wire passed it easily. For added assurance that it did not move, I tie wrapped the wire to the bundle of wires running passed the pillar. Below is the shot of the wire's path under the center pillar cover at the front seat.
