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Discussion Starter #1
  • the "miles till empty" indicator says "low fuel" under 30 miles, when you the exact number of miles the most.
 

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Hmmmm, I would read the owners manual closely, I know the SRT-4s low fuel blinker has one indication for 2.5 gallons left (50 miles @ 20 mpg) and another, more urgnet warning at .5 gallons

At a guess, what you are describing is the best way they can come up with to say "GET GAS NOW!!!!!!!!!" And cover themselves from posts like....

"Well, it said 5 miles left , and at 3 miles, it died, I want a free tow, I missed work, the cat didn't make it to the vet and died, Dodge sucks!!!!!!!!
 

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The less fuel you have the less accurate the computer would be. DCX does not want the legal exposure of people running out of fuel quicker than the car said it was going to.
My Buick GS did the same thing. It would not display anything less than 30 mile.

If you have 0.5 gallons left your range could be from 12 miles to 7.5 miles. Even under normal driving conditions Highway or city. That's almost a 50% variance.

I will have to wait to share my list of ?thing I don?t like? about my Charger. It?s not due for another 4 weeks.
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Discussion Starter #4
my parents cars both go all the way down to zero.

its ridiculous that it shows me how many miles i have left until im low on fuel - so that i dont know if i have 2 or 20 miles left... and when im halfway to work id like to know whether i can make it, or whether i need to get gas and be late.
 

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What are those cars?
 

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jamphat said:
my parents cars both go all the way down to zero.

its ridiculous that it shows me how many miles i have left until im low on fuel - so that i dont know if i have 2 or 20 miles left... and when im halfway to work id like to know whether i can make it, or whether i need to get gas and be late.

My 2005 magnum goes to 0 also.
You don't think DCX changed it because people where getting in there cars in the morning and seeing 10 miles on the range and because they are not leaving early enough to stop for gas, they try to make it the 8 miles to work, and running out of gas at 7 miles?
Then they ***** at the dealer because the gauge made them run out of gas.

The computer calculates range based on the gas mileage over the passed X amount of miles. My GS used the average fuel mileage from a rolling 45 miles to calculate range. If your display read 10 miles this could mean you have .417 gallons (based on 24mpg) or .667(based on 15mpg) gallons. The car can?t predict how you are going to drive over the next ? gallon. So say the computer was using 20 mpg to calculate range. That would mean you had .5 gallons. If you average 15 mpg driving to work you would run out at 7 miles. Hope you brought your walking shoes.
Yes it would be neat to have it go to 10 or something but what does it give you over the fuel gauge. Just run it empty one time and see where the gauge is. Or, you could just get gas when it goes to low fuel.
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Discussion Starter #7
maneval69 said:
10 miles on the range and because they are not leaving early enough to stop for gas, they try to make it the 8 miles to work, and running out of gas at 7 miles?
but even with the margin of error, its useful. in that case, the car would read "0 mi" when they ran out of gas, it wouldnt run out while it said it had 3 miles left.
 

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The best way to check is when the light goes on, filler up and see how many gallons are left. On my 2003 Dodge ram, when the light goes on I have 6 gallons left in my tank.
 

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By far, my biggest gripe is the fact that, after trips to two stereo installers, neither of them have been able to tap into the factory amplifier to connect my head unit. The guy at the local shop has calls into Visteon (who makes the amp) and the company that he gets wiring harnesses from, but he's not sure anything will be available. The OEMs keep making it harder and harder to integrate aftermarket components, and it pisses me off.

I also dislike the location of the cruise control. I'd much rather have a few buttons on the steering wheel, or at least a stalk that can be more easily reached.

Otherwise, can't think of anything else that bothers me.
 

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The parking brake bothers me. I still prefer a handbrake over a footbrake. If it has to be a footbrake, at least make one that deactivates by stepping on it again. I do not like that lever I have to pull to deactivate. Other than that, this is the best car I've ever driven!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tonycpsu said:
By far, my biggest gripe is the fact that, after trips to two stereo installers, neither of them have been able to tap into the factory amplifier to connect my head unit. The guy at the local shop has calls into Visteon (who makes the amp) and the company that he gets wiring harnesses from, but he's not sure anything will be available. The OEMs keep making it harder and harder to integrate aftermarket components, and it pisses me off.

I also dislike the location of the cruise control. I'd much rather have a few buttons on the steering wheel, or at least a stalk that can be more easily reached.

Otherwise, can't think of anything else that bothers me.
where is the factory amp located? would the shops have been able to bypass the factory amp to power the speakers with the new HU?
 

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jamphat said:
where is the factory amp located? would the shops have been able to bypass the factory amp to power the speakers with the new HU?
They *could* bypass, but with the Visteon/Boston Acoustics system, it gets complicated with the separate mid-bass drivers in the doors and the tweeters on top of the dash. If you want to do it, you need to either drive them with separate amp channels (which could get ugly) or do your own crossover network. Either way, at the end of it all, you're unlikely to have something that sounds as good as the factory system without having dropped some serious coin.

As much as my installer would be happy to make some extra dough selling me a lot of new equipment, he was honest with me, and said the first grand or so would go into just bringing it up to the level where it sounds now. That's why I'm doing my best to push them to find a way to integrate with the factory amp.

The amp itself is located near the E-brake, I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
tonycpsu said:
They *could* bypass, but with the Visteon/Boston Acoustics system, it gets complicated with the separate mid-bass drivers in the doors and the tweeters on top of the dash. If you want to do it, you need to either drive them with separate amp channels (which could get ugly) or do your own crossover network. Either way, at the end of it all, you're unlikely to have something that sounds as good as the factory system without having dropped some serious coin.

As much as my installer would be happy to make some extra dough selling me a lot of new equipment, he was honest with me, and said the first grand or so would go into just bringing it up to the level where it sounds now. That's why I'm doing my best to push them to find a way to integrate with the factory amp.

The amp itself is located near the E-brake, I believe.
well i certainly plan on replacing the factory speakers, i just dont know how soon...

so youre saying that the factory system doesnt have crossovers, and instead drives the midbass & tweeters with seperate channels?
 

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i dont like tha e-brake either because i sometimes hit it while gettin in my car. and also tha a/c takes to long to get cool.
 

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jamphat said:
well i certainly plan on replacing the factory speakers, i just dont know how soon...

so youre saying that the factory system doesnt have crossovers, and instead drives the midbass & tweeters with seperate channels?
No, I'm saying that those crossovers are internal on the amp (according to my installer) and couldn't just be ripped out when bypassing the factory amp.
 

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First off, I don't have the info center on my Charger so it doesn't tell me 'miles to empty'. When the gas gauge starts getting low, I gas it up. I've never needed to know exactly how many miles are left. And as other have stated, it varies all the time.

Second, I agree the cruise control stalk is weird and the parking brake is not optimal, but I rarely ever use these things. I'm not gonna complain about such minor issues.

Next, the A/C taking longer to cool down is the fault of this new freon used in new cars. It doesn't work as well/fast as the old stuff.

The only thing not right about the R/T and having HEMI power is what's actually touching the ground. I'm not really fond of these economy tires; they seem to lack lateral grip and struggle in hard turns.

The car itself is just awesome though. No problems :rockon:

:cool:
 

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I just got back from vacation and I took my R/T from North Carolina to New York and back. I now have 3400 miles on my car 1700 miles from this trip. The car was great. I got 512 miles on 18 gallons of fuel all highway miles. even when driving in the city fuel miles were great.

I also have a problem with the E-brake when I get into my car I sometimes hit the pedal without knowing it and do not release it until the bell warns me. The cruise control stalk I think just takes a little getting used to. I had a problem at first but now I don't need to look at it to figure out what inputs I am doing.
 

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Yeah, the ac is wierd too. First it blows warm air and after 10 sec it starts to blow cold air. Kinda funky getting a blast of warm air on a warm day, but I usually just leave the doors open till the ac gets cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thought of another -

  • i cant roll down my windows with the key remote
not a big deal, but its something you get used to - being able to roll them all down on a hot day as you walk to the car is awesome
 
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