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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 R/T with R&T so I have the Daytona intake. I don't really think I need an aftermarket CAI, and I don't want anymore engine noise (I prefer noise from the back of the car). Does a new K&N filter flow better than a new paper filter? I just want maximum efficiency, and elimination of bottlenecks. I have Blastin' Bobs resonator eliminators on the way. I will also have a Predator tuner soon enough.

MIKE
 

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it will help with the airflow more than the paper filter, for sure.
 

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I have one, and I love it!
you cant go wrong with it
 

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The daytona filter already has a higher cfm rating than the normal paper filter in the chargers. Also look at truflow. I think they filter a million times better than any k an n.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The daytona filter already has a higher cfm rating than the normal paper filter in the chargers. Also look at truflow. I think they filter a million times better than any k an n.
When I looked up the air filter part number at the parts store, they don't have a different number for Daytonas and R/Ts.
 

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It will flow better when it is perfectly clean. It will load up on dirt exponentially faster than a paper filter and reach maximum restriction MUCH quicker. If you clean your re-usable filter every few weeks, the case could potentially be made that it's "better" IF there was any evidence that the stock airbox/filter was a bottleneck in terms of airflow to begin with. I've seen no such evidence.

Best,
 

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The housing where the filter on top is the same size, but the intake hole is almost twice the size on the bottom and the tube is bigger in diameter. Am I right wicked? The standard R/T is rated for 4800 cfm, The R/T, R/T is rated for 5300 CFM> But the filters are the same.
????
 

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K&N drop in filter is a must have, especially for the r/t package/daytona style intakes. get it from autoanything.com they're the cheapest and offer free shipping. while ur at it get the recharge kit. i dk for sure, but from what i've read ritz is wrong. you only have to clean these filters once every 50,000 miles. and they will flow way better than paper filters, even if they are dirty
 

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K&N drop in filter is a must have, especially for the r/t package/daytona style intakes. get it from autoanything.com they're the cheapest and offer free shipping. while ur at it get the recharge kit. i dk for sure, but from what i've read ritz is wrong. you only have to clean these filters once every 50,000 miles. and they will flow way better than paper filters, even if they are dirty
Disagree with that. I have had 6 or 7 K&N and have a full BBK polished CAI on my cobra now. Clean it every few oil changes. I have one in my work truck that I keep in Phoenix and I have to clean it every 6K miles or the engine becomes starved for air at highway speeds. Also, the dirtier an "after market" filter gets, the better it works at trapping debris, so go figure.
 

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K&N drop in filter is a must have, especially for the r/t package/daytona style intakes. get it from autoanything.com they're the cheapest and offer free shipping. while ur at it get the recharge kit. i dk for sure, but from what i've read ritz is wrong. you only have to clean these filters once every 50,000 miles. and they will flow way better than paper filters, even if they are dirty
You are absolutely mistaken. Here's a tale of how those reusable filters fare in an ISO dust loading test.

http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

Before you go calling someone wrong, you might want to know what you're talking about first. Perhaps if "what you've read" is K&N's marketing material, I can see how such confusion could occur.

For those that don't want to read the whole test, the salient part is:

"The AC Delco filter test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction. In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt."

Best,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You are absolutely mistaken. Here's a tale of how those reusable filters fare in an ISO dust loading test.

http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

Before you go calling someone wrong, you might want to know what you're talking about first. Perhaps if "what you've read" is K&N's marketing material, I can see how such confusion could occur.

For those that don't want to read the whole test, the salient part is:

"The AC Delco filter test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction. In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt."

Best,
OK, but what about a clean, new filter. Does paper do as good as K&N? If I am willing to clean my filter every oil change, is there a benefit?
 

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OK, but what about a clean, new filter. Does paper do as good as K&N? If I am willing to clean my filter every oil change, is there a benefit?
If you keep them clean (frequent cleaning, not every 50k miles or every 6 months, etc) they CAN flow better than paper when they are clean. The quid pro quo is that you allow more dirt into your engine. If you're willing to accept that trade-off and if you're willing to buy into an unproven theory that the stock airbox/filter system is somehow "holding back" the Hemi then you can potentially benefit.

That's a lotta if's. Then again, if you're doing it cuz you lik the extra noise generated by a cold air intake with a re-usable cone filter, then it doesn't really matter if it does anything else for you or not, right? :)

I'll stick with a filter that actually filters. :) I change my air filter every other oil change.

Best,
 

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When I looked up the air filter part number at the parts store, they don't have a different number for Daytonas and R/Ts.
thats cause parts stores are for ********. Someone posted the cfm and mopar part numbers for the different filters on here before. Part stores are all about selling the cheapest chinese whatever they can that fits whether its correct or not
 

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i cant find that page now but my daytona part number is 05037615aa . Somebody with a non r & t chime in with their stock number to see if there is a diff, please.
 

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I also agree with what ritz says on most accounts. the aftermarkets will not filter as much as paper. This has been proven several different ways already, and the filter is not what gives you horsepower. The tube is where you make up for restrictions and resonators in the stock system. Those resonators (noise reducers) are baffles like a muffler that screw with airflow. Thats why you get the "noise" from the aftermarket cold airs. Remember you will only flow what the smallest port in the intake is. It doesnt matter if you put a 9 inch tube on your intake if the throttle is only 50 mm. The cold airs are designed to allow the available air a better path to the throttle body. Not to increase air flow, as misinterpeted by most people. A good example

Lets say our chargers can use 400 cfm. This is the airflow allowed at any given point, through the smallest intake port.

Stock filter probably flows around 500 cfm
Aftermarket may be 650 cfm.
Car still only uses 400 cfm.

Make sense? or clear as mud?
 

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In the November 2007 issue of Car and Driver, a K & N ad states in a dyno test a stock Charger R/T put our 292.10 hp at 5,216 rpm. With a K & N intake system (#63-114) it produced 313.19 hp at the same rpm- an increase of 21.09 hp. Has anyone been able to verify such numbers?
 

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