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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
$80 at the local exhaust shop. I had them cut out the 2 mid mufflers and replace them with straight pipe. (this is the suitcase looking one on 2010 or earlier models).
I left the resonators on the tail pipes.
As I expected, the car feels like it runs exactly the same. The sound seems just right. It has a low burble tone on slow take off that turns to more of a raspy mean tone at higher rpm and higher load. It's loud enough where it would get the attention of someone sitting behind you at a drive through or stoplight, but not so loud, you'll hear it from 5 blocks away.
At highway speed it is plenty quiet on level ground and does have a very very light drone going up hill. the drone is so subtle that if you crack a window or turn on music, you won't hear it. At normal cruising, the road noise is louder, but when you get on it, it comes alive.

I kept my mufflers and now know what design they are. It is infact just straight pipe through the mufflers with small holes drilled in it, much like the high flow after market mufflers. There are no baffles for the gases to curve around going through the muffler. Just thought it would be nice to know that the stock mufflers are already high flow mufflers for those of you who might be wondering.

For those of you looking for a really stand out exhaust sound, this would be too subtle, but for someone who wants a decent V8 sound, they can live with every day, for $80, its pretty decent.
 

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Let me know if you notice any change in revs over time. I feel like after I did this mod, the car hesitated a bit more on moderate acceleration, around 3-4k RPM, like it was hunting or indecisive before upshifting. No regrets though, love the sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it felt the same right after. Then I disconnected the battery for a while to reset things and now it seem a little bit more hesitant like you describe, but I have a feeling that will go away in some time.
The other thing I noticed is that rasp stays decent sounding up till the very highest rpm, right before it switches gear, under full acceleration. Then for that split second, right before up shifting, the resonators sound over powered and rattly. But its only for split second at the very highest rpm right before redline, so it isn't too bothersome. I may try disconnecting the battery one more time for longer, like an hour to see if it helps. All and all, I'm sill happy with it.

Is your hesitation very subtle or a definite stand out thing you notice all the time?
 

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I'm also very interested in if you start to notice hesitation, loss of power, or loss of MPG. I really want to do this too, but I don't want to lose power and MPGs just for sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I really don't see this as changing the flow much because the mufflers them selves are straight pipes only with small holes drilled in it. But I will be watching it to see if I gain any mpg or loose any. I just disconnected the battery and will reconnect it in about an hour.

My car already seemed a little hesitant before this and I had a real hard time getting the tires to brake loose, (my thread about not being able to do a burnout).

I've thought about power adders and eventually want to do short tube headers and a tune. The stock exhaust manifold is a very restrictive dog leg where exhaust from all 4 ports immediately are forced 90 degrees sharply and combined at the same time and I think even shorty headers on this car would gain some real world hp and torque. I've examined the stock air box and it seems damn efficient. It is routed into the fender as a true cold air intake. I had a 2011 rt and did try the k&N intake and it actually felt a little more restrictive, but did increase sound. I'm convinced the stock air box on these cars are really designed well. The only thing I did do was remove the twisted resonator under the air box where the triangle opening is in the actual fender. I've thought about cutting a slot in the plastic air channel that feeds air to the brakes and adding a small scoop to direct part of that flow up into the air intake reservoir(fender) where the air resonator was.
 

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Well, it felt the same right after. Then I disconnected the battery for a while to reset things and now it seem a little bit more hesitant like you describe, but I have a feeling that will go away in some time.
The other thing I noticed is that rasp stays decent sounding up till the very highest rpm, right before it switches gear, under full acceleration. Then for that split second, right before up shifting, the resonators sound over powered and rattly. But its only for split second at the very highest rpm right before redline, so it isn't too bothersome. I may try disconnecting the battery one more time for longer, like an hour to see if it helps. All and all, I'm sill happy with it.

Is your hesitation very subtle or a definite stand out thing you notice all the time?
Well, I notice it because I'm very OCD about everything my car does, but it's definitely there. And I've narrowed it down to the muffler mod because it started happening after I did it. It's hard to describe - under gradual moderate acceleration, I'd say when you apply 10% up to 30% throttle, it's not a smooth acceleration curve before upshifting. It's like the power output dips a bit as it realizes the gradual increase in throttle input, and fluctuates RPMs instead of upshifting. A little bit annoying.

I haven't noticed any raspy with my setup.

I'm also very interested in if you start to notice hesitation, loss of power, or loss of MPG. I really want to do this too, but I don't want to lose power and MPGs just for sound.
Definitively - on paper at least - you're removing restriction as far as overall airflow geometry. Typically this means you get a slight power increase, but at a potential torque detriment as the power output changes. My MPGs haven't changed at all - I range anywhere from 17-19 mpg in mixed driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, mine doesn't act like your decribing where the power lets down as it detects throttle increase. I do know my transmission would rather try to power through the rpm range instead of downshifting, like it doesn't want to respond or seems bogged down until you start to get on it. This is the way my car has always acted though. I know these throttles seem to be all or nothing with not much in between.

It seems to be driving the same as normal today. My mileage seems to be staying the same too, but I'm interested to get it on the highway and see if there is any difference.
 

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Ok, mine doesn't act like your decribing where the power lets down as it detects throttle increase. I do know my transmission would rather try to power through the rpm range instead of downshifting, like it doesn't want to respond or seems bogged down until you start to get on it. This is the way my car has always acted though. I know these throttles seem to be all or nothing with not much in between.

It seems to be driving the same as normal today. My mileage seems to be staying the same too, but I'm interested to get it on the highway and see if there is any difference.
Mine does that sometimes too - it's not super intuitive at times. I just power through on the gas pedal and the car downshifts from there.
 

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Maybe you are not putting throttle down as far as you used to because it's louder and it seems as though you are?
 
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